Since there's not Christmas photo fun...


jbaakko

Diesel Detail Freak
Here's my lone complete Athearn Kenworth. I have 3 more trucks to go (right now) 2 the conventional, one COE.
 
Shot out.....

I would have to guess that the windows were shot out over the Christmas
Holiday.
No doubt the work of one Ralphie and his famous RED RYDER 200-SHOT
CARBINE ACTION RIFLE!! :eek:

Anyhow, the truck looks great!!


:D
 
Okay, pet peeve of mine - vehicle and structure kits that come without clear styrene window "glass."

I just bought some Evergreen clear styrene to try and make windows for some Walther's vehicles and structures.
 
JeffShultz said:
I just bought some Evergreen clear styrene to try and make windows for some Walther's vehicles and structures.

I've been known to use scotch tape at times myself........:eek:
 
I'm too embarassed to post pictures! Been playing slot cars with my engines. So far the SW900 is the fastest, followed by FP9AU, all Athearn!
 
SpaceMouse said:
I've got an SW1 (Lil Guy) that will blow the doors off of anything.
Oh, I don't know. I've got one of the old rubber band drive engines here that'll give you a run :D :D :D
 
For window glass, I have had really great luck with Testor's Clear Parts cement, Micro Scale also makes a window glazing product. Use those micro brushes to speard the glue and presto, instant, super thin windows.

BTW, Bob, I just realized you did the SD40-2 Elephant engine in the Model Railroading April issue I think, great job!
 
dthurman said:
BTW, Bob, I just realized you did the SD40-2 Elephant engine in the Model Railroading April issue I think, great job!

Thanks! It was in their March 2005 issue, my first article since retiring. RMC will be using an article of mine in their next issue (March). It's been a long time since I've had anything in RMC. I sent it to them because the subject of the article was based upon an old article in RMC.
 
So Bob, where do you store all these projects you have done? I swear I have seen dozens upon dozens of your articles and work.

As for RMC, I really find myself enjoying it more and more over Model Railroader for the fact they really give more meat in their articles, wish Randy at Model Railroading would get to that level, both Randy and RMC are 2 of my favorites, when I can find them. Seems our LHS won't carry RMC, sales are way to low :(
 
Wow, I didn't even look at the author of that article! Nice unit Bob, and I was thinking about her today, BEFORE I read this, while I was scanning this months Model Railroading... Anyways, i was at the LHS today and I totaly forgot the clear parts cement. I got some MU cables for the GP7 & the headlights for the two SD40's... Oh and the girlfreind bought me an old Mantua stainless steel streamlined baggage car... *grins* now to make it look like the BNSF Business car fleet baggage car.
 
JeffShultz said:
Okay, pet peeve of mine - vehicle and structure kits that come without clear styrene window "glass."

I just bought some Evergreen clear styrene to try and make windows for some Walther's vehicles and structures.

What about that clear glass stuff I recall reading about. It was a bit like glue, you painted it on, it filled the gap and dried clear. Maybe it doesn't work as good as they'd have you believe?
 
modelbob said:
What about that clear glass stuff I recall reading about. It was a bit like glue, you painted it on, it filled the gap and dried clear. Maybe it doesn't work as good as they'd have you believe?

Both the Micro Mark stuff & Testors cement work, but they kind of sag, but they DO work quite well, you'll see when I remember to buy some. The Athearn cabs came with the slide in one peice glass, thats too deep set for my liking, plus I need to add the interior!
 
JeffShultz said:
Anyone have a Walthers # for this Micromark or Testors liquid glass stuff?

Testors:
704-3515

I thought it was Micro-mark, maybe it was Microscale, can't find it under either!
 
The material in question is from Microscale and is called either Crystal Clear or Krystal Klear. I believe its the first name. Problem with either the Testors or the Microscale is that the edges are thicker than the middle after it dries. A way to correct it is to place the model upright so the windows are flat and level and then place a drop of glosscote into the window. when this drop dries the window pane is nice and level. Only trouble is that it may take 24 hrs for the drop to dry depending on its thickness in the pane.
 



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