Shelf mounted

[Dan Lawler]

I'm soliciting opinions about benchwork.

Perhaps because of my model airplane background I have learned to build light. I'm wondering if this concept is too light for an HO layout.

This picture is of a temporary shelf, set up at the height I plan to build my model layout. The structure is just 1x2 pine, secured with long steel screws into wall studs, with 1x2 cantilever supports. Even with only two supports and without steel L-brackets, and with only some old 1" pink foam board it already seems sturdy enough to hold track and trains. It will never have to hold more weight than that light a structure can support. With the actual construction I would have a cantilever brace about every two feet, and add big strong steel L-brackets to where it mounts to the walls. The foam board is remarkably rigid. Without doing actual engineering calculations, I rely on the old tried and true method of "that looks about right." I plan to underlay the foam with 1/2" Homasote for sound control. The scenery will be paper towel/plaster hardshell.

I'd appreciate comments. Anybody think it's too light weight for a model railroad's benchwork?
~Dan

 

[boatwrench]

Last summer while building a layout with my grandson I was surprised by how much weight a cover of paper towel & hardshell over foam scenery added to the overall weight.

 

[D&J RailRoad]

The hard part will be getting the 1x2 leg supports perfectly matched up so the layout surface is level.
I used plywood mounted to the studs in my benchwork to provide that level surface for the subroadbed.
A variation of this can be done as you have drywall up. Mount a 1' 2x4 on the drywall, anchored into the studs behind the wall then mount the plywood to that.

 

[Selector]

I agree with the advice above from Ken about getting it level. You would rather it be essentially level, and the best way to do that is to cast a laser beam across the wall, at the correct height (think about this a bit more, please), and then to use lag screws into the studs in every other stud. Believe it or not, that will be lots. I always pre-drill...it's a way of ensuring no unsightly or compromising splits of dried/seasoned milled softwoods.

Then, do as you have done with plenty of security for your conscience and peace of mind. It's too late to do proper cantilevering on the studs, and even then your wall studs would have had to be 1X12 at the very least...which is silly. So braces is the way to go.

I make scenery with a plaster-based 'ground goop' over aluminum window screen panels hot-glued to risers and to the rims of open grid benchwork. It does get heavy where mountains are higher and trees atop them must be planted into a depth near 1.5". But, you're using extruded foam board which is many times lighter. Your only fear will be falling and grabbing at the near edge of the benchwork shelf for support. You'll never get up on the shelf on your knees, for example, unless you find you forgot to apply a backdrop and now need to paint it reaching over your layout.

1X4 on the perimeter of your benchwork panels is lots, and 1X2 for braces, joists, and risers as you need them. I think you'll enjoy that arrangement and construction.

 

[Rico]

I used shelf brackets for the current layout I’m building, they're surprisingly sturdy and eliminate extra supports. I used a laser level when installing the verticals.
You can get a variety of bracket widths and vertical heights too.
I use 3/4” plywood ripped to 2-1/2” strips for framing, more than adequate and not prone to warping or splitting like dimensional lumber.

 

[PowrCab]

Dan,
yes, it looks way too flimsy for HO..
The 1x2 supports (or any legs) should be more like 2x3.. The perimeter should be more like 1x3 or 1x4...
Also, is that the final length ? Since you say it's temporary, why not have it 2 or 3 times as long and even make an L to behind the lazy boy ?
Worried your 1x2 supports will begin to bow or warp over time, as train stuff can get heavier than you might believe; locos, cars, rail, structures, plaster, screws, wires, paints...You want it to be tough as nails from the get go so no fear when adding things...It is diff from model planes...
Planes need to be light...Trains need to be, by nature, heavy.... 1:1 or miniature...

 

[logandsawman]

I'm soliciting opinions about benchwork.

Perhaps because of my model airplane background I have learned to build light. I'm wondering if this concept is too light for an HO layout.

This picture is of a temporary shelf, set up at the height I plan to build my model layout. The structure is just 1x2 pine, secured with long steel screws into wall studs, with 1x2 cantilever supports. Even with only two supports and without steel L-brackets, and with only some old 1" pink foam board it already seems sturdy enough to hold track and trains. It will never have to hold more weight than that light a structure can support. With the actual construction I would have a cantilever brace about every two feet, and add big strong steel L-brackets to where it mounts to the walls. The foam board is remarkably rigid. Without doing actual engineering calculations, I rely on the old tried and true method of "that looks about right." I plan to underlay the foam with 1/2" Homasote for sound control. The scenery will be paper towel/plaster hardshell.

I'd appreciate comments. Anybody think it's too light weight for a model railroad's benchwork?
~Dan

I use the "looks about right" test often, so fully understand.

You may get a bit of sag between supports.

Dave LASM

 

[Topherisme]

I am thinking 1x2 pine means some bending and twisting over time…

 

[Dan Lawler]

The general consensus seemed to be that 1x2s were just too light. My son and I spent time today setting up the first of similar shelves, but using 2x4s instead of 1x2s. I have some used 2x4s, so why not use them. I'm going to put 1/4 ply under 1" foamboard on top. Here's a quick pic. I'll post some more pics after I get some more of the shelving up. Thanks for the initial feedback, everybody.

 

[trailrider]

Should work, although I would have put the braces from the top straight down to the floor. That way the screws into the wall studs would be completely in shear, rather than partly in shear and partly in tension, which possibly could result in the screws pulling loose from the wall studs. Using T-nuts in the bottom of the vertical legs with a bolt screwed into them would allow for adjustment of the level of the table top. Just a suggestion. Then the question would probably be if there is enough room between the top of the table to the ceiling for you to stand up straight if you wanted to walk on the structure.

 

[NYC_George]

I used 2x4's for some of my bench work for one reason to span long distances. I no longer want 20 legs supporting the layout. Too hard to keep the place clean with all the legs in the way. I also like the uncluttered room look.
George

 

[Dan Lawler]

Should work, although I would have put the braces from the top straight down to the floor. That way the screws into the wall studs would be completely in shear, rather than partly in shear and partly in tension, which possibly could result in the screws pulling loose from the wall studs. Using T-nuts in the bottom of the vertical legs with a bolt screwed into them would allow for adjustment of the level of the table top. Just a suggestion. Then the question would probably be if there is enough room between the top of the table to the ceiling for you to stand up straight if you wanted to walk on the structure.

No, but I'm quite sure I could sit on it!

 

[Dan Lawler]

Well, the shelf is actually way overbuilt, but I have a bunch of these old 2x4s so I will push on using them. New 2x4 studs are over eight bucks apiece in my town! This is my 180 lb kid hanging on it.

 

[logandsawman]

I like to hear you are using some old lumber laying around.

Better too strong than too weak.


Keep it up, Dave

 

[Dan Lawler]

Using fifty year old lumber for anything is an interesting exercise. After a half century in Arizona climate it is as dry as the proverbial popcorn fart. The shelves are way overbuilt, but they are strong and will probably outlive me. This pic is looking along the room's north wall. Tomorrow we'll start on the other side of the room, and hopefully also get the lift-up bridge section at the west end framed up. Benchwork isn't my favorite part of building a railroad, but if we can keep up this pace we should be able to begin laying track next week.

 

[NYC_George]

It looks like you got all the angle cuts right.
George

 

[Rico]

Well, the shelf is actually way overbuilt, but I have a bunch of these old 2x4s so I will push on using them. New 2x4 studs are over eight bucks apiece in my town! This is my 180 lb kid hanging on it.

Looks good!
Just make sure you don’t put 181 lbs of trains on it!

 

[Dan Lawler]

Today we got a good head start on the benchwork along the west wall with its folding bridge. The bridge will go across where the 1x2 structure is currently just laid on top, and will fold downward. There will be diagonal cantilever braces under the benchwork. No nails, it's all screwed together. Talk about overbuilt, you could lay a mattress up there and sleep on it!