Seneca Ridge MS Afters School Train and RC Club
- Thread starter burakol
- Start date
logandsawman
Well-Known Member
YOU will get more selling them individually, but you will find it a tiresome project to wrap them and mail them out to several individual buyers.
THAT sounds like a good starting point. I am not sure how well they will sell, but you are not out anything trying.
Not sure how experienced you are at selling them on ebay but make sure and accurately describe their condition and you will have no problems. Post several photos. Also, consider some damage may occur during shipping so if they arrive and don't work someone could object and it could come back to you. Most buyers are honest but there is a bad one in every batch.
THAT sounds like a good starting point. I am not sure how well they will sell, but you are not out anything trying.
Not sure how experienced you are at selling them on ebay but make sure and accurately describe their condition and you will have no problems. Post several photos. Also, consider some damage may occur during shipping so if they arrive and don't work someone could object and it could come back to you. Most buyers are honest but there is a bad one in every batch.
Iron Horseman
Well-Known Member
The Inyo 4-4-0 steamer should bring between $30 (what I would pay) up to about $90 what some might pay. Especially the higher end if it has real brass steam and sand domes. They discontinued the real brass in the late 70s. The "True to Blueprint" box and foam insert for it would bring another $30.
logandsawman
Well-Known Member
The elevated area adds a lot of interest to the layout! Thanks for posting the update!
Thank you... it took us three tries to actually get the concept laid down..it used to be a figure 8 but it took too much space away from where some of the buildings will be put in place... the risers were built from styrofoam but the hieght is not all the same so we are having issues with derails and uncoupling so we are 3d printing them instead...
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logandsawman
Well-Known Member
I assume the bottom one is your 3d printer one, it turned out great and really captures the detail!
Some progress of the layout. Right now we can run trains without much issues but it will need some cleaning after all is said and done... the second level is now much better aftwr we replaced the styrofoam with a sturdier 3d printed risers.
Aftet thanksgiving, our next goal is to lay some buildings and maybe a mountain tunnel...
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If you have a piece of track you can make into a diorama to display a loco or short train on, that would make a good practice project for ballasting and scenery development.
logandsawman
Well-Known Member
I think adding some ballast would be a good idea. For one thing it helps hold the track really firm to the board. Also, it can really improve a scene.
Your design turned out really interesting and looks like fun to run trains on!!
Your design turned out really interesting and looks like fun to run trains on!!
Thanks. We tried running some Athearn streamlined passenger cars and it most often than not, we are encountering derails on random parts of the tracks. On the contrary, when we run hoppers, box cars, or any shorter load, we don't encounter much issues with derailing... could the issue be with the truck mounted horn couplers, the 18r curves? Or the wheels itself? The kids really wanted to run the passenger cars and gets disappointed everytime it causes problems...
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Long cars and tight curves don't mix well and truck mounted couplers add to that unfortunately. Dips and dives in the track base will cause uncoupling issues with long cars, more than short ones as well. Think of it this way, if you had a metal watch band with only a few long links in it and another with many short links, which would fit around your wrist the best.
Gotcha... so I guess it's hopeless if all our curves are 18r??? Or should we try and change the coupler to a kadee and mount it on the underside? We have another set of con-cor streamline that we haven't tried but I am assuming it will yield the same results?
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Body mounted would be best, if the cars are scale 85'ers, then you would also need Kadee long shank couplers to allow for the overhang of the coach ends around the curves. From the pictures of the Athearn cars (I've got the Walthers ones) they appear to be a bit shorter i.e. underscale, so that would help if they are. Here's the link to the most suitable long shank KD #5 whisker coupler and Gear Box, http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page146.htm The whisker type are easier to fit than the older ones that had separate, brass centering springs. You can also get these in overset (higher) and underset (lower) coupler heads to allow for height differences. Seeing there won't be any coupler boxes on the cars to fit them into, you will need to mount the Gear boxes to the car with screws or glue. I haven't had to do this myself. Maybe a question in the HO scale forum on this direct subject will find someone who can advise you more.
