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i guess i have seen the light.
played with a train of athearn RTR cars (with stock mchenry's) and coupling was mixed. well, worked well for the most part but number of couplers were acting up. i think the reason is that plastic tab they use for the knuckle spring (proper terminology?) lost its springiness. i'd think that sooner or later this is the faith that awaits all of them.
question however is which one of the Kd's is right? sounds like number 5 is rather ubiquitous general purpose coupler. but then i really liked the wisker coupler, seems like awesome idea (got a pair with some cars from craiglist). seems like going with 148's (same dimensions as 5 or am i mistaken) is a good idea. i don't think that at this point i shoud worry about height so medium centerset should be fine.
then there are 'scale' models (158 equivalent). i have these installed on genesis car and they seem to couple to standart mchenrys and KDs kinda acceptably. should i just go with them for future replacements? they look good, cost difference seems negligible so i was wondering about performace ie if they tend to uncouple more then standard.
I was using #5s until one of the local hobby shop guys turned me on to the #14s (#5 sized head, whisker couplers). The bulk pack is #148.
The scale size ones can be iffy in coupling. When it came time to put shelf couplers on the tank cars, I went with the standard size (118, I think), but they are huge. I then got the 119s, which are scale head whiskered shelf couplers, and they work well with the #5 and #14s.
I went on to using standard size couplers since I had a bunch already. I use longer shank (46, I think) for locos with snowplows.
I use #5's, 21's & 25's. The other ones besides the #5's have raised or lowered heads. A lot of Athearns need the raised head on 1 end & the #5 on the other. Then when you get into the specialty engines you will find a diff. coupler to use. I "always" set all of my couplers w/a heighth gauge. That's when you find all of your wrong couplers. I use the Micromark all aluminum heighth gauge.
Have you been to the Kadee home page? http://www.kadee.com/index.shtml
Look under conversions, tons of info.
You're right about the #5's being pretty much general purpose couplers.
The scale couplers, #58 I think, look great on equipment but aren't quite as forgiving on layouts with not so perfect track work.
visited their site and went through the list again.
so far i hear recommendation to go for the wisker ones and warning about 'scale' couplers demanding ideal track-work.
the fact same car might ask for different height coupler on each end sounds bit strange but i guess i'll find out soon enough.
#5 and #148 are the same basic length and are interchangeable. The 5 has the separate centering spring while the 148 is the one piece whisker coupler. I've found the 148 is perfect for any of the Atlas engines and cars. I did try a few with the #5 but discovered the Atlas draft boxes are a bit thin in some cases and the #5 tended to bind when the draft box cover screw was snugged up. If you need a longer version to clear a pilot or whatever the #26 is a long shank #5 and the #146 is the long shank #148. The 148 is also a good choice for the Bachman Spectrum diesels like the 44 & 70 tonners and the FM H16-44. Once you start using the Kadees you'll find most can be installed directly into the models own draft box so at that point it makes more sense to buy the bulk packs as they are only the couplers and springs if needed and no draft boxes that won't get used anyways.
Right. They do include a little plastic capsule with some extra knuckle springs and of course those are worth hanging onto. The usual envelopes of 4 couplers also include 2 or 3 extra knuckle springs and I add those to the capsule when I open the package. If nothing else be sure to buy a Kadee spring pic. It will come in very handy when you have to replace one of those little buggers.
I have #58s, like the #148s - scale knuckle coupler but without whiskers, must admit they work like a dream, manual uncoupling with an Accurail Accumate switchman tool is also very easy with these. My trackwork is definitely not flawless and I haven't had any issues with these. I'd highly recommend them!
Just a quick recomendation from all that may have had experience with Kadee's on an Athearn BB Alco PA. I went with #5 but Kadee recomended the drop shank style #27 I believe. Didnt install like I thought they should so I stuck with the #5. Any better experiences.
Thanks
Wayne
BTW what would anyone recomend for adding bellows between AA and or ABA of above.
Why do you want to choose one? Choose the proper one for the job. I've seen #5 only people spend forever reworking a coupler pocket to make one fit. I go the specs find one that fits and drop it in. Many people over look the 30 series that have very shallow depths. The 40 series is great. There are a few things where a good old #9 is hard to beat.
....i don't think that at this point i shoud worry about height so medium centerset should be fine.
At what point would you worry about height? If you are going to go to the trouble of installing Kadee couplers you might as well get them installed to the correct height right from the start. Less problems later.
should i just go with them for future replacements? they look good, cost difference seems negligible so i was wondering about performace ie if they tend to uncouple more then standard.
They uncouple more than standard if they aren't installed to the correct height because there is less vertical length in the knuckles to hold onto each other.
They also need to be installed with special care in centering. If they don't center exactly they can be harder to couple correctly. Generally I mix and match and don't worry about it too much.
Ok got a question , bought an 85 foot rivarossi pullman car for my NS executive train . When i got it it had horny hooks on it and need to change it to kadees or bachmann EZ couplers but cant seem to find the right ones anywhere . The coupler shank is quite long and snaps in to the truck on a pin . anybody got any suggestions?
Mc Henry makes replacement "clip in" long draw bar truck mounted nuckle couplers for them or if you want kadee has a upgrade to convert the truck draw bar into a pocket that holds a metal nuckle simmilar to a #5.
I have installed both and I must say the Kadee worked a little better but took about 30 mins to upgrade each car.
Ok got a question , bought an 85 foot rivarossi pullman car for my NS executive train . When i got it it had horny hooks on it and need to change it to kadees or bachmann EZ couplers but cant seem to find the right ones anywhere . The coupler shank is quite long and snaps in to the truck on a pin . anybody got any suggestions?
need to ask you a real important question about that Pullman car. Does it have the coupler mount tied to the trucks? In other words when the truck turns, does the coupler pocket turn w/it? If it does, then you need to disconnect it if you are going to body mount the coupler. You also have to take the rod that is inside the pass. car, out, or it will hang up when you go around a curve & the car will derail.
It's all been pretty much said, Kadee website, there's also a guide in the Walthers catalog, and so on. I use mostly 5's, some 148's, and whatever specialty configurations the varous locos require. Very few whiskers.
Tangent is putting 148s on their models, you need good trackwork to use these, as they do not like vertical curves.
I still use a few McHenry's, but not the ones with the plastic whiskers. You can get them with a Kadee style metal knuckle spring. I use them on brass steam locos on the pilots, so I can double head without short circuiting.
Ok got a question , bought an 85 foot rivarossi pullman car for my NS executive train . When i got it it had horny hooks on it and need to change it to kadees or bachmann EZ couplers but cant seem to find the right ones anywhere . The coupler shank is quite long and snaps in to the truck on a pin . anybody got any suggestions?
Don't know what vintage that you have but the older AHM / Rivarossi cars with 6 axle truck mounted couplers took Kadee 508. You need to do a little careful surgery to mount the Kadee coupler box but the directions guide you through it.
Yup, If you want to keep the truck mounted style than it is a Kadee #508 or a McHenry #52. While I am not normally a proponent of the brand, the McHenry would be much easier.
Personally, I never convert to a truck mounting. I always switch to body mounting. Of course I run on 36" radius curves too. Jay Bee makes a special mounting bracket (jay112) to which I then add a Kadee long shank. I then realized I could make my own mounting brackets by simply layering styrene then drill and tap a hole for the coupler pocket.
