Running Bear's Coffee Shop LXX


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GarryCBQ said:
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F7 early .... dynamic brake had a smaller size fan instead of rectangular grid. Low roof fans.

F7 late... dynamic brake had larger size fan.

F9 ... looks like a late model F7 except there is an extra louvre on the side.

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Garry - excellent "crash course" on identifying F-units!

A few more less-obvious spotting features between the earlier and later F7's:

Earlier F7A models had horizontal slits on the louvers and stainless steel grilles - Athearn BB and most other scale model F7s were based on this phase:
[url]http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/bo/bo4568jpa.jpg[/URL]

...while on later ones, the grille slits were vertical, and each louver was twin sets of vertical slits:
[url]http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/bo/bo4607goh.jpg[/URL]

Stewart/Intermountain and Athearn Genesis are the only manufactures I know of that offered body shells of the later style.
 
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Stewart/Intermountain and Athearn Genesis are the only manufactures I know of that offered body shells of the later style.​
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KenMD: Believe Stewart at one time had offered a model of every phase of F, from the F3 to the F9, inclusive. Not sure if the Ft was included. I have a Pair of B&O F3ph2 A units, and a A+B Set of F7ph2 in my storage box. All run nice, and still have the original X2f couplers. Some day :rolleyes:

Garry: Nice synopsis of F unit development.

Have to find a Employee Timetable that had the Special Instruction for US Mail Work. Believe that trains dropping or picking up mail at locations where a station stop was not scheduled, had to slow down to 30 MPH while picking up/dropping mail. Have to look tomorrow, (referring to the PRR).
 
I have one of the Walthers UP mail cars that has the arm on each side that swings out, so I guess it was prototypical somewhere. Think getting hit by a heavy mailbag at 30mph, would knock you into the next county.:rolleyes:
 
Good morning gang
37f and clear, going to 58f. Long range says clear all week, so it looks like Saturday is gonna be a leaf chopping day.
But 1st things 1st. The appraiser from the refi company is coming out to appraise the house so I can refi the house amd get the soon to be ex outta here. Because of Maryland's divorce laws on non-contested divorces without minor children, thiscould be done and over eith in February. Funny thing, I keep getting pestered by some well meaning friends who want to set me up on dates already. It's encouraging, but not yet. But its nice to know your friends are trying to help.
 
Good morning. It's cloudy and 34.

Karl, when I went through my divorce, I also had some well-meaning friends try to set me up with dates. The only one that had any success was the kid that delivered auto parts to my shop. He set up a blind date between his mother and I.
21 years and 6 months later, I can tell you it was the only blind date I went on that didn't end in unmitigated disaster. At least, not yet...
 
Howdy- New problem with old "PUKER". Staying off the darn thing. At least I'm not having new problems with this OLD body.Strongly urge all, male AND females to have endo and colonoscopys.
Prayers for all.
Phil
 
Good morning fellers. Hope everyone is well. Received my structures in the mail yesterday. They are what I like to call space savers. Definitely smaller than I had thought but they are workable. Hopefully I can start building them this evening. Shouldn't take me too long to put these together as they are quite small structures. Wife has her first ultrasound this morning. Hope to hear a good heartbeat from the little one. Y'all have a good day and I'll try to catch up later.

Sent from my LGLS675 using Tapatalk
 
Good morning everyone. 43 and clear here, getting up to 57 today. Still need rain in these parts.

Continue to make progress ballasting track and painting MR-V. I'm off for the next few days, so may not post, at least not often.

Have a good day everyone.
 
Forgot to mention in last post - - not quite ready to post any photos of layout progress, but maybe early December. Working on getting the town set up 'cause I'm tired of looking at bare wood and buildings with no people and no vehicles :p
Have a good day.
 
Good Morning All. It's 68 and mostly cloudy here this morning. Things are getting into high gear today in advance of the turkey-fest Thursday. I'm the helper since my wife doesn't trust me with the dinner. Today it's making the homemade cranberry concoction, and making the cornbread for the traditional southern cornbread dressing. I am also planning a trip to pick up a deep-fried turkey, which we'll nibble on tonight and then freeze for later meals. The one that we cook on Thanksgiving will mostly be sent home with the kids after we ravage it. I have a shopping list for the wine store that I will stop at while I am out.
All of the recent postings regarding health issues makes me very thankful that the Lord has blessed me with relatively good health over the years. High BP and an occasional bout of acid re-flux when I overeat at my favorite Italian restaurant seem to be my only issues to date. My hearing aids are due to lifestyle choices made years ago and aren't really health issues. I also attribute part of my good health to my reluctance to see doctors over the years. I went 35 years before finally seeing one when I was 53 years old. Still seeing him but that is mainly to ensure that I get prescription refills.
Out in the train shed, I finished striping the new road(s) that I put in and added some asphalt colored paint to an alley area behind some of the structures that I recently posted. Since that alley is destined to be a focal point on the layout, I added more "alley type stuff" like scuppers and downspouts, electric meters, garbage cans etc. Otherwise things will slow down until Friday due to other activities for a few days.

Karl - I hate these shorter days too. Seems like I just get going and it's all of a sudden dark. Good luck with the appraisal.
Johnny - Once you get all of the paint "perfect", it's time to mess it up with weathering!
Ken (D&J) - Since appeals didn't work, ole Charlie took the easy way out of serving all of those life sentences. I won't miss him.
Sherrel - Have a safe trip to Arizona. Maybe you'll get a tax rebate since the state won't be providing any more free meals to CM.
Eric - I'm sure that the recent weather that you have been posting about only reinforces your desire to get back to GA. That's why I love this part of TX, I never have to bundle up for heat! It's short pants from March until mid-November.
Greg -
I can't believe how prices have changed for rolling stock
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Just wait until you total it all up at the end. That's why I never let my wife see that particular spreadsheet!
Garry - Thanks for the primer on F units.

Everybody have a great day.

Willie
 
Say, Willie (and others) - I've asked this before but don't remember if you responded - what do you use for roads, and what technique do you use for striping them?

I remember Chet talking about using the backs of "For Sale" - type signs, but I've looked everywhere around here and can't find the precise kind he's talking about. Now I'm at the point of laying down the road through my town and need to make some decisions. Any suggestions are appreciated.
 
Greetings and salutations. 32 degrees to start off the day. Must have had some freezing rain as I passed a number of vehicles taking an off road excursion on the way to work. I'll have a cup of black coffee with a sweet roll please.

All of the different phases of F units had me taking a second look at my F-3 to try to find out which one it was. I am going to tke a guess and say that this is an F-3, phase 2.

thumbnail_IMAG1256.jpg

I do remember that Stewart did bring out models of the numerous phases of the F units as Joe mentioned, but at the time I was more interested in my Alco units, getting them detailed and painted. The majority of my Logan Valley locomotives are Alco units except for a couple of Atheran geeps that I had painted and reworked before Atlas released their Alco RS units. For the most part, I gave up on trying to tell the F units apart because as Garry mentioned, over the years some of them were modified.

Phil - Nice to see you in here this morning. Sorry about your 'puter. Have you tried calibrating it with a hammer yet?

Karl - Nice to see you in here. You're probably right about taking a time out for a while. Don't need to be set up with anyone yet.

Justin - Those kits should keep you busy for a while.

Johnny - I can't believe that you can find those signs. It was so easy as most hardware stores carry them. I got the one sided sign with the blank back. The back is what I used for the working surface. I found light weight signs which became the road surface and a heavier sign which I used for the "city blocks" and sidewalks.

attachment.php


Check this page out and you'll see how the streets and sidewalks progressed.

http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?32284-Logan-Valley/page11

I guess it time for a rail photo so here goes.

railroad-track868ihg.jpg

Later.
 
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Chet - That photo documentation of your street and sidewalk progress is great, and very helpful (not to mention inspirational). I have looked for those one-sided styrene signs everywhere - the big DIY chains, local DIY stores, WallyWorld, HobbyLobby, grocery stores, - I mean everywhere. All they carry are signs printed on both sides. I thought about buying one and spray painting it gray to see if that would cover the print (usually a heavy black or red print) but I never did try that. But nobody has signs printed on only one side. It does seem bizarre to me, that they wouldn't carry the same kinds of signs in all their stores in the US. I'll hunt some more, because that seems like a useful solution to this problem. I did find thick blank white styrene craft "boards" and bought one that I thought would work for sidewalks - I have to spray it a light gray yet. And for streets I found heavy black poster paper which I was going to spray gray. Neither one of those seems like a great solution, but if I can't find those one-sided signs I'll have to use what I've got.
Thanks for the suggestions.
 
Johnny - Painting over the print wouldn't work for me as even after it was painted, you could still read the sign because the paint was so thick. Have you tried looking on line ? I saw someone mention being able for find sheets of blank styrens, but I can't remember when or who.

For colors, I just used a rattle can of gray primer for the asphalt as it will turn to a lighter gray after a bit of aging and a can of satin for the concrete streets. Can't remember the color, but there are a lot of colors that would work.
 
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Morning All ... 44 degrees going up to 89? .. and then they say to 94 tomorrow?
It's clear with a North wind of "0".
I have lost track of the last rain shower - been a while.

CHET - good photo of your F-3. I have the Stewart F-3 A&B with the "chicken wire". Frisco only had 2 A's and 2 B's of that model, but they had NO DB so I have to file down and refill the grid area to start with (unless I decide to ignore that fact). Then comes the fun part of trying to install all the tiny parts that I have been collecting - I think I have most everything except cut bars and lift rings.
Does anyone make that weird looking grab that sits near the top of the side on the curve of the nose?

OK .. Gotta start loading up for the trip. Here's my track photo for the day - it has a loco too!

1512 WB No 7 Windsor Springs.jpg
 
Johnny - Most all of my roads are blacktop roads, as all of them around here are that way, the concrete was paved with asphalt after twenty or so years. I use tarpaper strips cut into appropriate widths. While it is black when you first unroll it, it fades quickly to a grayish color even under artificial light. I glue it directly to the plywood with Elmer's White Glue. On some of the more rural roads, I put a half-width strip of cardboard, about the thickness of a cereal box, down the center underneath the tarpaper to obtain a "crowned" effect on the road. For striping, I use a fine tip white paint pen, I'll get the brand name later and post it; and use my 4' aluminum level as a straightedge to guide it. I freehand the curves. I have tried to use a yellow one, but it doesn't show up on the black. I need to obtain some other brands for experimentation. In some cases where I have used Hydrocal to make roadways, the Elmer's works there just as well. I use a glossy black Sharpie to simulate crack repair.
I have only made one concrete road so far, and to make it I just painted the plywood with a light gray paint. It's not the best looking road from close up, but when viewed from three feet, it is passable. I have plenty of styrene from old advertising signs, but it is .080" thick and would require a lot of adjacent ground raising to bring everything into conformance.
Years ago, I purchased some rolls of scale highway striping tape but I am/was not happy with the results and wherever I used it I had to go back with superglue to keep it fastened. It may work better with the styrene though.

Willie
 
Sirfoldalot said:
Where I grew up- the outgoing mail was hung on an arm for the RPO to grab, but the incoming mail sack was simply tossed out of the door at 60+ MPH.
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Yep! that is what I teach visitors at the Museum. From Wikipedia: " An interesting feature of most RPO cars was a hook that could be used to snatch a leather or canvas pouch of outgoing mail hanging on a track-side mail crane at smaller towns where the train did not stop. The first US patent for such a device (U.S. Patent 61,584) was awarded to L.F. Ward of Elyria, Ohio, on January 29, 1867.[16] With the train often operating at 70 mph or more, a postal clerk would have a pouch of mail ready to be dispatched as the train passed the station. In a co-ordinated movement, the catcher arm was swung out to catch the hanging mail pouch while the clerk stood in the open doorway. As the inbound pouch slammed into the catcher arm, the clerk kicked the outbound mail pouch out of the car, making certain to kick it far enough that it was not sucked back under the train. An employee of the local post office would retrieve the pouch and deliver it to the post office."
 
Chet, I think that is a late phase F3. The last one before the F7. Low profile fans, stainless grills instead of chicken wire, but still with the dynamic fan under the screens.
 
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