Reverse loop fix?


Habbyguy

Member
Been doing some research on reverse loops. And others have said that if the reverse loop is shorter than the train, the metal wheels on the rolling stock might make a short circuit. Which will be a problem on my layout. So could you not just cut a 1/4" to 1/2" isolation block(dead track) at both ends of the loop?
loop.jpg

IMG_0904.jpg
 
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As shown, if your train is longer than the loop, the head end will bump the tail end at the switch.

As for the short gaps, the idea will work as long as there are no lighted cars or pusher locomotives at the rear.

You still have to set proper polarity when the locomotive crosses the gap.

JohnP
 
You didn't mention if you're going DC or DCC, thyt would make a diferance on the gapping I believe(?). There's a few ways to go with wiring, from a simple toggle switch to a bridge rectifier, to an automatic reverser. (not an original question, I know)
Looks like G scale track?
 
Doesn't matter how many revisions you do, you'll still change things as you build! It's kind of an unwritten law of sorts.
Hmmm... on the other hand I wonder how many here actually designed and built a layout right to the plan?
 
The way to wire it is using plastic rail joiners and a separate directional switch if its DC I dont know how to wire for DCC but also Metal wheels wont short because there already insulated. the only problem you might have with metal wheels is if your powering the frog and one of the wheels might make contact with the point and rail.
 
In DCC, the metal tires rolling over the gap, and actually thereby bridging it for a brief fraction of a second, is most often enough to trip the detection circuitry in most DCC systems. Their being insulated from the axles is not relevant...it is that they complete the rail as they cover the gap, and the short can take place forward of the engine at the turnout if it happens to be power-routing.

-Crandell
 



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