Rejuvenating older equipment componants?

[Outback]

Hi everyone,

I have what may or may not be a unique situation on my hands that for the present time has me at odds as to how to handle without causing further detrimental effects. I am hoping the years of experience, the vast collection of knowledge, and the myriad of skills herein can help me undo some of the effects of time.

I have recently returned to model railroading after a long hiadus (16 years) and have discovered some problematic results of long term storage of locomotives and equipment in what can be considered as not quite ideal conditions. This equipment was packaged appropriately enough, and always kept in-doors, but was not always stored in heat maintained areas. This thereby exposed it to a few weather/humidity extremes and hot/cold cycles over the years. This has evidently caused some oxidisation on the electric motors and couplars rendering both at odds with their new environment where they are expected to function.

Couplars (Kaydee): white-ish oxidisation on main body, springs ok, knuckles stiff. Side to side movement generally ok, but sometimes sticky.

Electric motors (not all but some): same oxidisation on and around the main housing (the metal sandwich thingy?) but said motor will turn freely and some will run with minor smoking.

My question which most have figured out by now is - What can I do to clean these things up and get them working favourably again? Is there a recommended approach? specific solvents or cleaners? best oil? &c &c to rejuvenate my aged and naturally weathered equipment?

As I've implied, I am asking now before I start to avoid any mistakes that may cause a loss of use to any of these units.

I await your learned answers and advice,
Dunc

 

[Irongrave]

I really like aero kroil creeping oil for eletrical motors. Its like WD40 on steroids. I use it at work every spring on out large 220v pool pumps to clean any oxidation and to prevent further corrosion of parts and contacts.

 

[RW&C]

Try a little graphite in the couplers to get them moving again. If that fails, you'll probably have to take them apart. You can probably scrape the oxidization off with a hobby knife, or use some kind of metal cleaner (Brasso or something).

Oil the motor bushings, and also clean the commutator (the shiny copper bit where the brushes transmit power to the coils). Alcohol and a cotton swab should do the trick. Don't bother oiling the comm, it'll just gum up. (Whatever you do, don't use graphite on a comm. It all but catches fire. Ask me how I know...)

Make sure that the other bits of the drive train still turn smoothly, or your motors will still be working too hard.

 

[NH Mike]

A spray can of electrical contact cleaner works well and is self evaporating. I've used it on motor brushes and armatures and on Kadee couplers. It will wash away any lubrication it gets on so a light drop of oil on each motor bearing will be needed after cleaning. I don't oil my Kadees as it attracts dust and sooner or later they get gummy and sticky. Graphite or the Kadee powder lube works best.

I had my trains on the back burner for over 20 years and when I started up again I had about 6 Kadee couplers that had oxidized to the point there was no saving them. Otherwise 30+ engines and 75 - 80 cars all came back just fine after servicing.

 

[Outback]

Ahh yes - electrical cleaner... I should have thought of that. Won't hurt anything. Good idea. And the graphite and oils too. Thanks guys. I'll pass that along to the shop foreman ;-)

 

[bnsf971]

The white stuff on the Kadees is corrosion, and has probably seriously weakened them. I've found I can save about 1 in 3 when they have this, and that is the ones that aren't that bad to begin with.
I've had good luck with the Atlas conductalube for the commutators and brushes, as well as locations that aren't on the motor, but conduct electricity. The bronze wheel bearing blocks and truck pivot mounts on Athearn diesels, and the brass axle bearing on Mantua steamers, for example.

 

[Outback]

Thank you Terry.

I picked up some elctrical contact cleaner so I'll give this a try and see what happens.

 

[NH Mike]

Forgot to mention that the Athearn engines steel contact strip that runs from the top of both trucks to the top of the motor often gets rusty as do the truck tabs it rubs under. Pop it off and clean the contact surfaces with #600 wet or dry sandpaper - use it dry of course. In a worst case the bottom motor contact / brush holder will act up from oxidation of the engine's cast frame. The motor can usually be pulled off the frame without removing the trucks and then the contact area of the frame can be shined up. Just poke the 2 or 4 mount tabs back up into the frame with a blunt tool of some sort and the motor comes out. Hardest part is aligning the driveshafts when the motor is put back in.