Rail car weight


cruznlobo said:
Hopefully there is a simple answer to this question.
What is the best way to weight a tank car? I want to add about 1 oz.
We have 1/4 oz. lead weights that there is just no place to stick them on a tank car.
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You can try wrapping resin core solder around the axles.
 
Solder doesn't weigh much. Try popping the ends off, If not, see if you can remove a part of the car, fill it with sand, then glue the part back on.
 
Thanx for all the suggestions.
Looks like the ends pop off but there are rails glued to them. We'll have to be real careful!
We have 2 Atlas tank cars and they are both 1.2 ounces under weight, using the formula 1 oz. + 1/2 oz. per in. of car, they are 5 in. cars and should weigh 3.5 oz. but only weigh 1.3 oz. They do derail occasionally, but that may be a turnout problem. We're gonna get all new turnouts when we set this up permamently. There is a box car in front of them and a caboose behind them, so I don't think it's a heavier car pushing a lighter one. If I can find a new turnout in town today I'll replace it then move on to weighting the tank cars.
Thanx again
Mike
 
Weighting?

Good morning, how has your Mothers day gone so far??
On the subject of weighting model train cars, where does one look for the little lead weights with double back sticky tape? I run HO.
Whilst on the subject of looking for stuff, where can I find the magnets that fit between the rails for uncoupling??
Thanks in advance.
Mac
 
uncoupling magnets are made by Kadee. Most reputable hobby shops carry kadee products.

Those stick-on weights are made by A-line, but if you buy them from a tire shop (they also sell them as tire balancing weights) they would be a lot less expensive.
 
diburning said:
uncoupling magnets are made by Kadee. Most reputable hobby shops carry kadee products.

Those stick-on weights are made by A-line, but if you buy them from a tire shop (they also sell them as tire balancing weights) they would be a lot less expensive.
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An auto parts store is the best place to go for those stick on wheel weights.

Its too bad they dont make that moldable weight stuff that is like a putty you can pack into small crevices to help add weight. I think A-line used to make that stuff too. Try adding weight to those older Athearn BB Impack spine cars without having to rely on using trailers with weight instead.
 
I use the lead shot for shotguns. I got a 20 lb bag of it somewhere. They are small pellets and they can be poured in small holes and held in place with white glue.

NMRA standards are online and not hard to find.
 
I try and keep every car around 5oz as if everything weighs close to the same then you dont have any issues. And just like in the real world, which weighs more a fully loaded 100 ton 30' cement car or a 100 ton 80' reefer?
 
diburning said:
They make moldable lead tire weights.
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They actually quit making that product a few years ago. Most likely due to EPA reasons. The only thing now that we use in the auto repair industry are the stick on weights or the traditional style that pounds on the lip of the wheel. Last I heard, A-line was making it but they dont list it anymore. I heard from this forum that product was long since dropped. I like the lead shot idea though.
 
A couple of years back I was building a fleet (30+) of Intermountain N scale Canadian grain hoppers and needed to add weight. Turns out pennies fit just fine in the shell halves. I used enough pennies to bring the weight up to just over NMRA spec for the length of the car (I used a small electronic scale). Secured the pennies with super glue and all is well. Finally a solution to all those pennies laying around.
 
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