Progress So Far


C

CanuckMark

Member
Hi guys!

Well, the second main is on line so I think the layout is at a point where I can show 'er off. :)

The history is as follows: As a kid (youngest of three) I was the one who got "dragged" to the NMRA conventions in the late 70s and early 80s. My dad was a master modeller and did some pretty cool stuff back then - mostly logging short run stuff with Shays and narrow gauge as his faves. I actually remember driving a switcher at a Domtar plant somewhere in western ontario or eastern Michigan. I did a few decent models on my own too. Then I lost interest in my teenage years.

My dad passed away in July and it was a weird feeling sitting in his old layout room. Something said "you gotta do this again" (and trust me, it wasn't my wife). So the journey began... :D


layout_01.jpg

A dual main with a switching yard and turntable on the left side, a blank canvas for the right. The outer main is about 63 feet long. I think the framework is pretty overkill but it sure is sturdy. :) Went with code 83 right from the start - the LHS actually sells it cheaper than code 100.


system_switcher.jpg

I decided I wanted the flexibility of DC and DCC, so each main and the yard are separately switched for either. So far this has worked really well.


dcc_01.jpg

Decided to go "scratch" with DCC and built the TMW system (search TMW DCC on the web). The controller is a Pentium I 233 connected via parallel to a PIC based microcontroller. This system works amazing.


cont...
 
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switch_01.jpg

I started with a couple Atlas switches and they are OK, but everything runs rough through them (with a couple derailments on the way). So, in the interest of doing things the hard way (and save some money too) I'm building my own. If you spend the time, this is really rewarding in a number of ways.

switch_L6_60_33.jpg

Here's another advantage to handbuilt switches - a 60/33 #6L!

s12_01.jpg

This one is kinda cool - one of the old Athearns my dad let me play with as a kid. This was one of my favourites back then - I'm so happy he held on to it. It is the official "first loco" on any new work so my dad can go for a ride and inspect my work.

turntable_01.jpg

The other "official inspector". Apparently the turntable hole needs some shaping 'cause I'm getting "the look". My wife taught her that one.

That's all for now - thanks for looking and any comments please feel free. :)

Mark
 
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Looking good! Especially the handlaid turnouts, I'm seriously considering going that route myself. Are they from FastTracks jigs?
 
CSX_road_slug said:
Looking good! Especially the handlaid turnouts, I'm seriously considering going that route myself. Are they from FastTracks jigs?
Click to expand...

Thanks!! It's been a great healing process and is going beyond that. I can't wait to run some of his old stock when my mother is ready to part with some of it.

Re the switches: Actually no, they're just hand built on paper templates. The Fast Tracks stuff is pretty cool but I have a several different types to build so I'd be in for a lot of coin in kits (I wouldn't be able to afford it). The templates are actually working very well - got it down to about 2 hours.

The cost factor is a big benefit (at about $2 bucks a switch, in all honesty was the first reason for doing this) but the smooth running of the engines and stock is the bigger advantage. You can really tweak the points and frog to be just perfect. The NMRA gage really helps. :)

Mark
 
Mark, your Dad did good. He taught you a love for the hobby and you obviously have inherited his modeling skills. I'm sure he's looking down on you with a smile on his face.

My cat gives me that same look that my wife gives me too. I wonder if it's inherent in cats or women? :)
 
Nice work Mark, you have done a good job with that layout, its compact, cause it goes around in asquared area, and at the same time you have large curves and long mainlines where to run long locos.

One thing that I saw alot recently on this forum was the use of those self made switches ( turnouts ), you said you made them on a template, where do you get this template from, and also where do U get the rails to be used from, do you take them out of flexitracks or they can be bought seperately. I also guess that the joining sleepers would be brass for easly soldering, and that soldering should also be made only on the outside of the rail ? I just wonder how the switching part will move if its souldered, or is that just temporary?

Sry for all these questions, but this subject struck my eye and I got interested to it :)

Nice layout and nice work BTW, keep this thread updated about your work, looks good :)
 
Yeah I would keep them away too, a friend of mine had one near his layout and ended up with all the pantograph lines cobbed, dangling from his layout.
 
Cats are also good tree eaters (1st hand experience). I've also heard they try their hand at scenery, especially with putting in their "junk piles" on the layout. The piles usually don't end up in the scrap yard either.:p
 
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LOL! Yeah, the cats can be dangerous but my guys are pretty well trained. Since there is no scenery right now the only thing in jeopardy is whatever train is running or sitting on the outside line, but then again they are learning quickly that daddy doesn't like them jumping up. :)

Ken, that kitty has been with us for 17 years, exactly one year longer than my wife and I have been together so it is hard to tell who taught who what. :)

Ron, the basic design is an inspiration from your setup. Between XTrkCAD and your basic design it turned out great! Thanks for posting your thread, it really got me pointed in the right direction.

Maxi, the templates are actually just paper printouts. I have to be honest, they are downloaded from the Fast Tracks website. I wish I could afford the jigs, but am buying some bits and pieces (ties and things) from them next week to help contribute to what they do. I usually put the template on a piece of plywood with the straight rail edge towards me, then spike down the PC ties in position. Then start making the rails and attaching, working forward. There are some tricks that I remember from my dad (he was building these things 15 years ago), especially with the soldering. And yes, I use the rail from Atlas flex-track and plan on using the leftover ties to fill in the missing ones on the turnouts - roughly half of a 3 foot flex track per #6 turnout (3 feet of rail), so that's like $2.50 a turnout. The only real disadvantage (other than the time into the building of the switch) is the cosmetics - it would take a bit of work to make it as pretty as a store bought switch. Oh yeah, the moving parts - the closure rails are attached at the frog end to the fixed long tie, then at the front on a sliding tie. It kinda hinges/flexes to one direction or the other (its hard to explain).

Mark
 
Mark~

Wow! Very nice indeed! I think your inspiration of your childhood memories with your dad is awesome! I am sorry for your loss. I think you gained something as well or rather I think he is still with you from what your showing us. That is good. This is one of the many things that makes MMR special to some of us. Very cool to think that you can relate to a loved one in the hobby trains and its all magical. I have the same kind of thoughts of my grandad when I run my trains as well.

Well your work is really off to a great start! I am sorry if I missed some of your other posts...so what is your theme, histiry and RR? I see you have UP on your avitatar...

later!:)
 
No real "theme" at this point, pretty much open to what fancys me right now. :) I started out wanting to model the Algoma Central Agawa Canyon passenger train, but that's about all that is left of that RR as it was absorbed by Wisconsin then by CN. As for UP, it may sound funny but I just love the colour scheme! :D

My dad and I weren't particularly close in the later years. No, it isn't quite a "Mike and the Mechanics" song, but it would have been cool to do this with him. In reality though, I am really going an entirely different route than he was interested in - I like diesel with long, long trains (hence the long dual mains) and he was a Shay/Heisler/logging On3 type guy. The best part is on his train room wall he has a pic of himself and his dad when he around 8 next to his dad's layout, then another done the same way but with me and him. I plan to get scans of them for myself and continue the tradition - no kids for me though, so one of my kitties may have to do for the third pic. :)

Thanks again for your comments guys - this is a pretty respectful bunch here compared to most other forums I'm at. Lots of fun here and still lots to learn. Hope you guys don't mind me updating this thread here and there.

One question regarding decals - has anyone used the Walthers laser sheets in a colour laser jet? Other than the obvious lack of white, how do the colours turn out? As winter sets in I hope to build a nice UP passenger consist using those waterslides on the yellow.

Mark
 
Mark,
That's a very nice story about the pictures. I'm sure the cats will do their best to inspire someone else to start again. :) We all do try to be respectful, even when we disagree. Seems the guys with real bad attitudes just drift off to other sites where that kind of thing is tolerated. And, yes, indeed, you must update your thread or we will be mad a you. :)

The self-made decals work just fine as long as you make sure to seal them properly first. I have found that they are only cost effective when used for things I can't buy from Micro Scale or Champ, like making things for my fictional shortline. When you add up the cost of the paper and ink, it's usually cheaper to buy a decal set for common things like UP passenger cars. Price out how much it costs for a sheet of Micro Scale UP decals compared to doing them yourself and I think you'll see what I mean.
 
Cool - thanks Jim. I'll look in to that. The only problem I often find is with shipping and customs to Canada - that's probably why I didn't look at that option to begin with.

Mark
 
Mark,
It's looking real good. It's nice to see I had a small part in your layout design. I can see the similarities.

Man, I've gotta try hand laying turnouts. Even as a test of patiences, if anything. Your's looks great.
 
Mark, I am curious as to a ballpark figure on what you invested in scratch building your own DCC? What software does the Pentium (computer I assume) run on?
 
DaytonPiquaRR said:
Mark, I am curious as to a ballpark figure on what you invested in scratch building your own DCC? What software does the Pentium (computer I assume) run on?
Click to expand...

Check out this link to the TMW-DCC Project. This is what I built. It is a DOS based software and hardware solution for a club in Europe. They were very generous in posting all the details online for free, I can't thank them enough.

Originally I built the all-logic chip MB-DCC encoder but had a lot of trouble with timing. Then I built the PIC version that TMW developed and it has worked flawlessly. I had trouble with the booster circuits they posted so I found a different one that works much better in my setup.

The software is DOS based - apparently they were working on a windows version, but the DOS one does everything I need for the moment. The funny thing is you need to find a computer slow enough to run it! Yes, slow enough. The PIII 900 I used at first worked terribly with the controller. I am running a PI 233MMX and it is "just" slow enough. Then, DOS6.22 (cannot use a windows shell) and you're golden.

You can do control from the keyboard for one throttle, or build a joystick-based controller. If you use an ISA SoundBlaster card the software will recognize it without drivers. Then, a potentiometer and button per throttle. I built a controller with 4 throttles in one so I can just preprogram it to control 4 different locos and go. It also can be programmed to control more than one loco on one throttle (A-B-B-A setups for example).

As for cost, this is what you need:

  • Computer: very cheap to free
  • PIC chip: about $8 bucks and it needs to be programmed (I can do that for you)
  • Booster IC: about $11 for the one I used
  • Relays: recommended but not necessary, $5 to $20
  • Other encoder parts: about $10 to $25 (parts, board, case if needed)
  • Controller: between $0 to $40 depending on what you want
  • Software: free!

Bottom line is you could even install this whole thing right inside the computer case and use the computer's power supply. I may still do that.

The only problem I've had so far is if the rails get shorted out it tends to blow the output channel on the PIC. I've tried a few different things to prevent this but haven't had much luck.

Disclaimer: It is very helpful to be an electronics tech to build this as it is a pretty involved project.

If you want to do this I'd be happy to pass along any tips I learned from the process, just ask away.

Mark
 
Great layout, Mark. The scratch built DCC is very intriguing. I'm going to have to do some more research on it. Thanks for the link.
 
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