P2K Alco PA1

[35tac]

I have a P2K Alco PA1 that the instructions say is DCC ready. If I am looking at the correct position I believe its an 8 pin. It is equiped with Mars light. #21664 is the stock number. Any input on decoder selection would be appreciated. No sound.
Thanks
Wayne

 

[Espeefan]

On all of my PAs I got rid of the factory board completely, and hardwired in a DH-163 or similar decoder, mostly because I didn't like the mars light on the original run. I also got rid of the factory dual filament bulb and installed a piece of brass tubing and a separate bulb for the mars light. The factory bulb didn't look to me like a real mars light. If you want to keep the factory board and mars light, something like a DH-123 should work with the long harness and 8 pin plug. When you look at the chassis, you'll see a cavity that fits the DH-123 or 163 perfectly.

 

[thaddeusthudpucker]

I agree with Espeefan. Get rid of all of the factory circuitry nonsense. I used NCE D13SR decoders on my PA's, and yeloglo LED's for headlights. The mars light can be simulated in other ways with readily available componets. Try Miniatronics. You will save yourself time, headache, and money by hardwiring.

 

[diburning]

+1 for removing the factory board. On some models, it can cause the engine to run slower or have erratic operation and/or sluggish response to throttle commands.

Also, when you install a decoder, make sure to either replace the bulbs with 12 volt bulbs (watch out, they can get hot enough to melt plastic), or add resistors to the existing bulbs (P2K used both 1.5 and 3 volt bulbs so you'll also have to see which kind you have)

 

[thaddeusthudpucker]

As an addendum to my above post, the equivalent to a D13SR that has a harness is the D13SRJ. It comes with the JST 9 pin plug.

 

[diburning]

If you're looking for an inexpensive D13SRJ, look up Empire Northern Models on eBay (I think they have a site too). They are an NCE dealer. NCE manufactures the D13SRJs for them in bulk and lets them put their name on it (It will be shrink wrapped (the ones from NCE are not shrink wrapped) and say Empire Northern on the wrap). The paperwork will say Empire Northern at the top, but the rest of the info on the card will be from NCE.

And on the bright side, they will cost less than getting an NCE branded decoder from your dealer. (Only $12.95 + $2.57 shipping for a total of $15.52), (MSRP on the D13SRJ is $19.95, best price I've seen at dealers is about $17 or so)

It beats paying $17-$18 (discounted) for an "economy" or "basic" decoder from other manufacturers AND it has 4 functions.

 

[thaddeusthudpucker]

Thanks for that tip! I have been usually getting my decoders in 4 packs off of ebay buy-it-now places for about $60 a four pack plus shipping. Empire Northern sounds like a better deal, and actually makes a bit less work because the first thing I do on those decoders is to put a layer of tape on the bottom for just-in-case insulation. I do not wrap them, because that would inhibit heat flow away from the decoder.

 

[diburning]

Here's a link

http://cgi.ebay.com/NCE-D13SRJ-4-Fu..._RR_Trains&hash=item27b8d98256#ht_1582wt_1141

(I am not affiliated to Empire Northern or NCE in any way. I was looking for a 4 function decoder (Digitrax stopped making 4 function decoders) and I came across it on ebay so I'm just passing along the tip )

The heat shrink wrapping that Empire Northern uses is the same type that NCE uses on the D15SRJs, Digitrax, and TCS use. I don't think they inhibit heat dissipation like tape would. (I could be wrong though)