Woodlawn Industrial Park (was Northeastern HO scale switching layout)
- Thread starter kleiner
- Start date
ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.
Thanks!
About starting over - its not too far from the truth
After I finish this layout, I plan to build a portable N-scale layout that will be fully computer controlled.
I have been a model railroader for over thirty years and I have built a few layouts. I learnt a lot from building those layouts and I want to apply what I have learnt and make this one come out as good as possible.
I use a small Philips head screwdriver to uncouple cars. If you insert it between the two knuckles in just the right way, cars can be uncoupled very easily. I know that others have successfully used wooden skewers as well.
Remote controlled turnouts (ie Control Points) are actually not all that common in North American practice except on main lines. In fact, manually thrown switches are the norm, especially in industrial switching areas like the subject of this layout. So they are absolutely ok for an 80s layout.
The usual complaint about Caboose Industries ground throws (which is what I have used) is that they are overscale and not built to a prototypical design. But I personally think that they are pretty unobtrusive and easy to operate.
@PowrCab I have indeed powered the frogs. I use Tam Valley Hex Frog juicers and I use these little brass bars and associated screws (sold directly by Atlas on their website) to get a convenient way to solder onto the frog. This works very well. I read this trick somewhere but I don't recall exactly where.
Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)
Thanks!
About starting over - its not too far from the truth
After I finish this layout, I plan to build a portable N-scale layout that will be fully computer controlled.I have been a model railroader for over thirty years and I have built a few layouts. I learnt a lot from building those layouts and I want to apply what I have learnt and make this one come out as good as possible.
I use a small Philips head screwdriver to uncouple cars. If you insert it between the two knuckles in just the right way, cars can be uncoupled very easily. I know that others have successfully used wooden skewers as well.
I bought some scenery goodies from Martin Welberg (via Scenic Express). I have to say it looks great. I was recommended Martin Welberg products (from the Netherlands) by a friend who is building a European layout.
I was away for few weeks as I had to travel for some family stuff. Goal is to complete the layout by the end of October.
I was away for few weeks as I had to travel for some family stuff. Goal is to complete the layout by the end of October.
Topherisme
Chris wants more hobby time!!!
First off, looks great…. Secondly I am curious about the manual switch machines you used. I was going to do the same with my yard to save some money, but are they realistic for a late 80s layout?
Remote controlled turnouts (ie Control Points) are actually not all that common in North American practice except on main lines. In fact, manually thrown switches are the norm, especially in industrial switching areas like the subject of this layout. So they are absolutely ok for an 80s layout.
The usual complaint about Caboose Industries ground throws (which is what I have used) is that they are overscale and not built to a prototypical design. But I personally think that they are pretty unobtrusive and easy to operate.
Topherisme
Chris wants more hobby time!!!
Thank you much for the reply, and again, layout is looking great
santafewillie
Same Ol' Buzzard
Their N scale ones have enough travel to use on HO and of course are smaller.
Whole project looks great !! But since there are so so many posts I'm not sure if this has been brought to your attention:
Looks like you have employed Atlas CustomLine switches (TOs)..If so, you can rub/sand away the black coating on the frogs..
I believe Atlas does this to preserve the pewter metal while hanging long periods on display racks in stores (maybe)..
That little protruding ring at bottom of frog is for a neutral wire to be screwed down to from a power-routing ground throw set up of some kind..
But it looks like you are going to have the longest diesels doing the switching anyway. So, such long wheel based locos are not likely to stall even if you do leave your frogs cold...
Here's a little scenic tip: Paint the 4 insulators surrounding the frogs and any other rail insulators with chrome enamel..or chrome nail polish..
Looks like you have employed Atlas CustomLine switches (TOs)..If so, you can rub/sand away the black coating on the frogs..
I believe Atlas does this to preserve the pewter metal while hanging long periods on display racks in stores (maybe)..
That little protruding ring at bottom of frog is for a neutral wire to be screwed down to from a power-routing ground throw set up of some kind..
But it looks like you are going to have the longest diesels doing the switching anyway. So, such long wheel based locos are not likely to stall even if you do leave your frogs cold...
Here's a little scenic tip: Paint the 4 insulators surrounding the frogs and any other rail insulators with chrome enamel..or chrome nail polish..
@PowrCab I have indeed powered the frogs. I use Tam Valley Hex Frog juicers and I use these little brass bars and associated screws (sold directly by Atlas on their website) to get a convenient way to solder onto the frog. This works very well. I read this trick somewhere but I don't recall exactly where.
I may have posted this before but you can see the frog juicers mounted on a piece of Gatorboard under the layout. Excuse the sloppy wiring, at least it gets the job done In case you are wondering, the small board in the middle is a cheap buck converter to power the LEDs for layout lighting from the DCC bus. I will only have one locomotive running at any time so no fear of drawing too much power.
In case you are wondering, the small board in the middle is a cheap buck converter to power the LEDs for layout lighting from the DCC bus. I will only have one locomotive running at any time so no fear of drawing too much power.
Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)