New Air Brush System


goscrewyourselves

goscrewyourselves

I'm the one
Afternoon All,

I just received this from TC Global, my new Air Brush and Compressor System by Paasche:

TalonAirgun_zpse45b8b38.jpg


PaascheCompressor_zpseae89c16.jpg


This is my first Air Brush and now can't wait to try it. I expect to make a lot of mistakes initially, especially with paint/thinner mix ratio's but, paint types and so forth. None the less, has to be better than rattle cans and brushes :)

Cheers,

wombat457
 
You have a real high quality set there wb. Once you learn how to use it, you'll wonder why you waited so long to get one! BTW, my Passche is officially 40 years old this month! I bought it at the Camellia Trophy Shop in Mobile, Al. The brush and hose cost me the astronomical price of $22! The next Passche I bought an AB, cost me $250. I sold it a couple of years later for almost twice that. Didn't take me long to realize that I shouldn't have sold it.
 
Very nice set up. The biggest thing to remember is to keep the air brush clean. A small metal pan or dish and some el-cheapo laquer thinner are basics if you are using solvent based paints. Soapy water will work for acrylics. As soon as you are done spraying remove the paint parts of the gun and wash them clean. The problems most folks new to using an airbrush have are usually because it isn't clean. Paint to thinner ratios and pressure recommendations of the paint maker will be a good starting point. As you go along you may find your own ratios and formulas more suited to how you work, most of us do.
 
Thanks Guys,

Carey,

I didn't know what I was buying, quality wise, all I knew was that it seems to be a good price for what was offered and will enable me to do automotive airbrushing as well. Your experience with Paasche is very reassuring and I'm glad I had "dumb luck" in choosing them.

Mike,

I plan to use all (true) acrylic paint with the brush for the sake of ease of cleaning and not having to have solvents etc around. I have a small food container that I intend to use for keeping the relevant parts of the brush in as well.

As you both have mentioned, learning to use the brush will be the main thing but I learn fairly quickly. My only real question at the moment though is how far does paint go with an airbrush? It seems the quantities available are small as is the cup that holds the paint on the brush itself. That is probably a "how long is a piece of string" question as there are numerous factors that would effect coverage; but on average what sort o coverage should a person expect to get?

Cheers,
 
Don't remember what scale you model in, but when painting with my Passche, unless its an articulated locomotive, I can generally get good coverage with one cupful or less, again depending on the size of the model, how thin your applying it, what color etc. This is something else you'll learn, as you go.

One thing that I feel that I need to mention. I have always applied a neutral color primer coat, before painting the main colors. Some colors will not come out the correct color, without the use of a primer. I prefer to use a light tan color, as this allows equal coverage for all colors. You should always paint your lighter colors, or what I call the poor colors first. These of course are white, yellow, and believe it or not red. Without a primer, esp on a black or other dark color body, You'll fine that it will take 7 or more coats to get the color just to start looking correct. This can lead to the paint actually covering the details up. When you use a light primer, and this can include a grey primer, The coverage and color balance is automatic. You get coverage with a single coat, in most cases, and the color looks "correct", (the balance).

Depending on the brand of paint you use, it may leave a gloss, (shiney), or a dull finish. If it is dull, prior to decaling, you have to gloss the model. Decals work best on gloss surfaces, while dry transfers work best on dull.
 
Carey,

Thank you for so much information regarding air brushing. Most of what I intend to use the air brush for is painting Scenery, buildings etc but was also considering using it to put down a base colour on the layout itself. My thinking is if i can manage to get the "blending" of colours right on the base it may make for a more realistic result. Do you think I am being too ambitious here?

I also wouldn't mind trying my hand at painting an engine or rolling stock some time either ... that could be fun :)

Cheers,
 
Hi Mate
I to have only been using a airbrush for about 18 months, (still learning) mostly on aircraft but have found it fantastic for Model railroad stuff, I couldn't do without it.


Just a couple of tips I leaned from the Military modeling guys, I thin my acrylic paints with "Windex" also clean my airbrush with it to.


Also for a dull coat I use "Long Life" floor polish ("Future" in the States) cheap and it works a treat.


Bothe these products you cay purchase at any supermarket.


Good luck with your Airbrush

Regards
Gary
 
Wombat,Can't wait to see your review on the talon,been looking at it a long time best of luck you have a very great looking set up there !
N
 
"My only real question at the moment though is how far does paint go with an airbrush?" From the cup to the nozzle. All you really need to do is rinse the airbrush until it shoots clear, then pull the needle, wipe it off, put it back, and a little final rinse. This is as far as I clean any of my gravity feeders. Dis assembly is not necessary unless you happen to let paint dry in the airbrush. Do not remove the needle with any liquid in the cup.

Go here and you'll find all you need. Yours is a gravity feeder. http://www.airbrushguru.com/cleaning-your-airbrush.html

"Thanks, would never thought of or considered Windex as a thinner." Good. Now don't. You could try the ammonia free Windex, but you'll want to keep anything with ammonia in it away from your airbrush. Ammonia will attack the chrome plating and cause it to wear away faster. In a pinch you could use it, but remember to rinse the airbrush out with water after.

On thinning paint, think about milk. Properly thinned paint will leave a skin on the jar similar to what skim milk leaves in the empty glass. This rule of thumb works for just about any paint.

The talon is a nice airbrush. I happen to own several Paasches, though these days I paint mostly with Iwatas The cup should hold enough paint to do a base coat on a 40 or 50 ft Boxcar with maybe a little left.

I would get a regulator & moisture trap for that compressor. Feel free to ask questions as you learn. Happy painting!
 
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