Need Help!!

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I have never been very good at wiring or anything like that but i have several locomotives i would like to super detail which i've done before and i know how to do except for one factor which is "DITCH LIGHTS" I need help learning how to install ditch lights weather they are surface mount or whatever.
 
It's been so long since I've done that, can't remember any one method.
Have you tried searching here or googling ditchlights?
I'll sit back and wait for Josh or Jerome to elaborate...
 


Depends on the road. Some mounted them on the porch, some on the front of the pilot just below the porch, some in front of the porch on platforms, some on the face of the pilot. Some locomotives are more conducive to putting them in some places (HO scale) because of the location of other details (like the uncoupling bar) or MU cables and connections.
 
Also depends on the railroad. Conrail liked to mount the ditch lights on the pilot. NS likes to mount the ditch lights on the deck.
 
As for installing them on your locomotives, I like and use the Details West ditch lights, as they are metal, and have no light leaks from the ditch light housing itself.

I use surface mount LEDs from either TCS or Richmond Controls, and usually the sunny whites is what we buy. I carefully drill out the bottom of the ditch light housing so that the LED can fit inside. I paint the back of the LED so that the soldered contacts don't come into contact with the metal ditch light housing and cause a short. You can also use a dab of CA (cyanoacrylate or super glue) if I don't have paint handy.

The important thing about installing these is that you test them each time to make sure you haven't broken a connection or wired something wrong.

If the ditch lights are deck or porch mounted, then I will drill then paint, then glue (CA) the housings to the porch first. Once dry, you can drill small holes in the pilot just below the deck or anticlimber so that you can route the wires into the shell. I then run the LED into the housing, and then turn them on so that I can aim them within the housing. Once aimed, I CA the hole they went in to hold them in place (don't do a lot in case you accidentally break them later) and let it dry (overnight).

The next day I route the wires into the shell, attach the resistor to the LED + lead, then wire to the board and test. If everything works, I heat shrink tube everything, and then reassemble the locomotive (decoder work, including programming, has already been done). I'll then touch up the exposed wiring with paint, fill in the holes where the wires go into the housing with a little more glue, and attach the lenses to the ditch light housings. When that glue is dry, I add paint to the bottom or back of the ditch light housing (where the wires come out) to eliminate light leaks.

I'm sure others here use similar techniques with some tricks they probably learned along the way. The key thing I learned was not to fully glue anything or assume that when completed, the lights would work. The wire is small and can be fragile, you can accidentally hook up stuff backwards, or even have issues with the wire getting caught on the flywheel and drive train of the locomotive, especially if you put in too much slack.
 
I would recommend the Railflyer ditch light housings, They're scale sized (Details West housings are oversized) and come in almost every configuration imaginable.

If you use surface mount LEDs, and there's room in the housing to add a lens in front of it, by all means do so, because it will look 10 times better!
 
The main thing i dont get is the wiring how do i wire them to different decoder types as well as make the ditch lights alternate "flash" ect.
 
It's not hard. As long as you have the appropriate resistors, you can wire them to the F3 and F4 pads on the decoder if it has them, or the green and purple wires with the blue being the positive common.

One thing that you should be aware of though, is that you'd need at least a 4-function decoder to have flashing ditch lights (2 for headlights - front and rear, 2 for ditch lights)
 


You can solder the resistor to any lead although I generally wire it to the positive lead to be neat and so that there won't be any accidents. You'll need to calculate what your track voltage is vs what the LED voltage and current is to make sure you have the correct resistor.
 




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