GuilfordRailman
Well-Known Member
What is the Lionel smoke fluid made from? Is mineral oil a close second? I’ll need to acquire some to keep this locomotive chugging along
Supposedly mineral oil. However, "mineral oil" is a rather broad term for a variety of mineral oils, kind of like saying "motor oil" is the best oil for use in automobile engines. Um, yeah, but which motor oil? There's a big variety of them out there, with different ratings and purposes. By the way, DON'T try and use motor oil as a smoke fluid, as it's not good for a variety of reasons.What is the Lionel smoke fluid made from? Is mineral oil a close second? I’ll need to acquire some to keep this locomotive chugging along
You’re ruining my fun here lol.By the way, DON'T try and use motor oil as a smoke fluid, as it's not good for a variety of reasons.
I received my Lionel locomotive and track maintenance kit today
I watched a few videos and understand the basics of where to oil and grease but I have two questions regarding the maintenance that I couldn’t find answers to.
The first is in reference to the exposed gears on the side of the locomotive. In the video I watched, the instructor stated to not grease the exposed gears due to the fact that debris can become trapped in the grease and cause problems. My question is…how do these exposed gears stay maintained if I shouldn’t grease them?
My next question is more locomotive specific so if you’re familiar with the locomotive I have, maybe you can help? The instructor stated that if you don’t plan to use smoke fluid all the time, disconnect the smoke unit as it can be damaged when empty. I looked on the bottom and sides of my locomotive and couldn’t find a switch. How do I disable the smoke unit? Do I just need to use smoke fluid all the time?
I thought it seemed like a bad idea! I will certainly grease them. Right now the track is on the carpet, which I do vacuum frequently but I’m hoping to setup the train somewhere more permanent.Your video instructor can ruin his gears by running them dry if he wants to, but I grease the gears on all of my Lionel locos, exposed or not.
I picked up some marker light jewels in the correct size and type from my LHS “details and accessories” rack. They are not Lionel-specific.So…I acquired another Lionel train set
View attachment 171574
View attachment 171576It was almost fully complete, just missing a couple rail connector pins and some of the plastic stakes for the flat car. The locomotive runs great, definitely better than my other one, but…it has one small issue that I need feedback on to help correct the problem.
The previous owner tried (and failed) to solder the electrical connector between the tender and locomotive for the sound and didn’t do a good job. Does anybody have any recommendations for replacing/ repairing the connector? I’m not much of an electrician so I want to make sure it’s done right! As you can see in the picture below, the connection is barely hanging on.
View attachment 171575
The other small issue I don’t need to fix but would certainly like to is finding a replacement for one of the red lights on the front of the locomotive. See image below.
View attachment 171578
Any recommendations for replacement parts, either Lionel or a close substitute?
Unfortunately the only true hobby shop nearby my location closed down after Covid. 26 years or so in business too. Oh well, at least the internet exists!I picked up some marker light jewels in the correct size and type from my LHS “details and accessories” rack. They are not Lionel-specific.
Just saw these online a few minutes ago! Looks like i’ll have to order them Thanks!8 Light Green & 8 Red Lionel Classification Lamp Jewel Rhinestone Marker Lantern | eBay
These are 2.8mm and properly fit all Lionel "O" and "O-27" engines including 224, 225, 226, 675, 2026, 736, 726, 763, 700E, and more! Select a quantity of 2 and you will get 32 pieces etc.www.ebay.com
Congratulations! That's one of Lionel's nicer 4-4-2 locos. Complete with die-cast shell. And probably an all-around better drive mechanism than your plastic-shelled loco. The balance of the freight cars included with the set are still probably el-cheapo's, unfortunately. I know, because I have a set very similar to this one.So…I acquired another Lionel train set
The previous owner tried (and failed) to solder the electrical connector between the tender and locomotive for the sound and didn’t do a good job. Does anybody have any recommendations for replacing/ repairing the connector? I’m not much of an electrician so I want to make sure it’s done right! As you can see in the picture below, the connection is barely hanging on.
View attachment 171575
Sweet! Had no idea, lol. Yeah, the cars are definitely on the cheaper side, but they’re still cool. I’m hoping to acquire some nicer ones over time.Congratulations! That's one of Lionel's nicer 4-4-2 locos. Complete with die-cast shell. And probably an all-around better drive mechanism than your plastic-shelled loco. The balance of the freight cars included with the set are still probably el-cheapo's, unfortunately.
I'd just use foam tape.View attachment 172015
Any recommendations for how to repair/replace this?
I was thinking I could use that but I’m not sure it’ll fully work. The circuit components are partially imbedded into the thin foam as some of the components stick out further below others. (If that makes sense?)I'd just use foam tape.
Correct. You don't want any of the components' solder joints touching the sheet metal tender frame and shorting out. That's killed off more of those old circuit boards than anything else, if the truth is known.I was thinking I could use that but I’m not sure it’ll fully work. The circuit components are partially imbedded into the thin foam as some of the components stick out further below others. (If that makes sense?)
I’m not sure the foam tape would allow for the same thing.
These are great ideas! I like both options but for simplicity sake, I think the first option will be the one I go with. I’ll have to have a look around my local hardware store and see what I can come up with for materials to make it work. Thanks for the help!Correct. You don't want any of the components' solder joints touching the sheet metal tender frame and shorting out. That's killed off more of those old circuit boards than anything else, if the truth is known.
Fortunately, you have at least a few easy (hopefully) options. For one, if you can find some thick, double-sided adhesive foam sheet, you can make a new replacement. Of course, finding the stuff may end up being more hassle and more cost than it's worth. Or you could make your own out of some 1/2" or 3/4" thick soft or hard foam or carpet padding, and some water-based contact cement. Make sure any foam you use is not so thick that the tender shell won't fit back down on the frame.
Another option: make 4 standoffs out of round plastic tubing. Clean the old, disintegrating foam off of the board and frame, and drill a hole in each corner of the board. Drill a matching hole pattern in the sheet metal bottom of the tender, then use machine screws, nuts, and lock washers to attach the board to the frame, with the standoffs in between to hold the board up off the frame so as to prevent shorting. Use thread locker to prevent the screws/nuts from coming loose. You'd have to be careful if using this method, so as not to interfere with truck movement or other potential clearance issues.
Hope this gives you a few ideas.