My Weathering Projects

[RIGuyUK]

Hi All

I had posted in the weathering thread progress on removing weathering from a few boxcars I have. I made a mess of one of them, an IC car, so I have decided to repaint it into a Rock Island example.

I removed all of the existing markings and as much of the weathering as possible with 99% IPA and was left with this...

A quick going over with a red oxide rattle can primer has brought me to the current situation...

I'll do some detail painting on this before glossing ready for decal application

 

[migalyto]

Stellar job!

Looks brand new again.

 

[CambriaArea51]

Looks great, nice job.

 

[RIGuyUK]

Thanks for the comments folks

Installing a new kitchen has kept me away from my workbench for the past couple of weeks, however last night I started applying the decals...

The boxcar/running number isn't and exact match, but Its good enough for me!

The paint was covered in 2 coats of Klear, then the decals (from K4 Decals) where applied on top of Mr Hobby Mr Mark Setter, with a futher coat on top. When the first coat was dry, a second coat of Mr Mark Setter was added. This sucks the decals down over the details and reduces any chance of silvering. The solution I use is particularly good on decals with a thick carrier film.

I still have small decals to add, plus the other side and end decalling to do.

 

[Smudge617]

Thanks for the comments folks

Installing a new kitchen has kept me away from my workbench for the past couple of weeks, however last night I started applying the decals...

View attachment 166213

The boxcar/running number isn't and exact match, but Its good enough for me!

The paint was covered in 2 coats of Klear, then the decals (from K4 Decals) where applied on top of Mr Hobby Mr Mark Setter, with a futher coat on top. When the first coat was dry, a second coat of Mr Mark Setter was added. This sucks the decals down over the details and reduces any chance of silvering. The solution I use is particularly good on decals with a thick carrier film.

I still have small decals to add, plus the other side and end decalling to do.

That's really looking good, excellent job.

 

[RIGuyUK]

Hi Folks

All decals now applied and ready for sealing and varnishing...

I seal with a coat of Klear then varnish down with Winsor & Newton Satin Varnish, which I apply with a half-inch brush in vertical strokes. I do one side at a time and lay flat. The varnish levels itself out nicely that way.

As an aside, I use dedicated brushes for Klear coats and varnishes, which saves any contamination.

 

[Rico]

Looks great!

 

[migalyto]

Bravo! you did a great job on this piece, hope you share more of your projects.

 

[CambriaArea51]

Looks great, now get it dirty.

 

[TLOC]

Nice job overall and very excellent on the decals.

 

[PNKFLOYD]

Very nice decaling!
I especially like the rivet detail showing through the large lettering.
A lite weathering of this car should complete your work.

 

[westtexjohn]

Hi Folks

All decals now applied and ready for sealing and varnishing...

View attachment 166376

I seal with a coat of Klear then varnish down with Winsor & Newton Satin Varnish, which I apply with a half-inch brush in vertical strokes. I do one side at a time and lay flat. The varnish levels itself out nicely that way.

As an aside, I use dedicated brushes for Klear coats and varnishes, which saves any contamination.

I have never been able to brush paint any large areas without brush strokes being left behind. Kudos to those who get better results than I.
The car really looks great. Nice work.

 

[RIGuyUK]

Thanks again for all your comments folks, its very much appreciated and spurs me on.

Tonight the car has had a layer of Tamiya Flat Base on one side to start off the weathering process, pics to follow once I've made some more progress

 

[Hutch]

Hi Folks

All decals now applied and ready for sealing and varnishing...

View attachment 166376

I seal with a coat of Klear then varnish down with Winsor & Newton Satin Varnish, which I apply with a half-inch brush in vertical strokes. I do one side at a time and lay flat. The varnish levels itself out nicely that way.

As an aside, I use dedicated brushes for Klear coats and varnishes, which saves any contamination.

The link to Klear brings up some polishing product. Did you mean Micro Kristal Klear?

BTW, that is one beautiful box car as it stands.

 

[RIGuyUK]

The link to Klear brings up some polishing product. Did you mean Micro Kristal Klear?

BTW, that is one beautiful box car as it stands.

Hi Hutch

The Klear I refer to is Johnsons Klear which is indeed a floor polish. Its undergone some name changes and is now sold under the name in the link. Its great stuff, comes out of the bottle milky but dries completely clear and level and is a great base for decals to be applied to (and to seal them afterwards). I've been using it for 20+ years

Thanks for the compliment on the car, Im pleased on how it has turned out, though its undergoing quite a severe weathering at the moment!

 

[Hutch]

Hmm... I wouldn't think polish would give the varnish anything to adhere to. You've been doing it for 20 years so it must work.

 

[Smudge617]

Hi Hutch

The Klear I refer to is Johnsons Klear which is indeed a floor polish. Its undergone some name changes and is now sold under the name in the link. Its great stuff, comes out of the bottle milky but dries completely clear and level and is a great base for decals to be applied to (and to seal them afterwards). I've been using it for 20+ years

Thanks for the compliment on the car, Im pleased on how it has turned out, though its undergoing quite a severe weathering at the moment!

Klear floor polish is great stuff, used to use it when I was in the Army on our parade boots, and that's 30+ years ago, never thought about using it on models tho'.

Did you apply it with a brush or airbrush?

 

[RIGuyUK]

Hi Smudge

I usually just brush it on as it is self-levelling, although I have sprayed it a few times (thinned very slightly with water) when I'm going for a glossier finish on auto kits.

It provides a really smooth finish which is ideal for applying decals to, removes any silvering. I picked up on its use through Warbird modelling years back and started using on my rail models. In fact the way I approach my rail modelling is from tips & techniques (and materials) I picked up from Warbird modelling.

This video is quite useful, though the guy says he finds the new milky product doesn't leave as smooth a finish - I haven't found that myself, though I do put an extra coat on

Great product which saves a bunch of cash on buying other clear coats.

 

[RIGuyUK]

The car has been through the first weathering run on one side/end/roof half...

I used Tamiya X-21 Flat Base, diluted around 50% with IPA and brushed all over the sides when dry this was scrubbed back with a stiff-haired brush. I went a bit heavy with it which took a long time to get rid of the excess. I then ran some heavily diluted (water) Vallejo Model Air 71.040 Burnt Umber applied with a brush and allowed to run down the bodysides.

When that was dry I rubbed back some some of the umber with IPA on a cotton bud to achieve the effect I was looking for. Since I took the above photo, I've added more umber to the first panel.

Im quite pleased with how this has turned out, to my eye it looks like a work and weather stained car in the mid-70's.

The other side/end/roof half now has a much lighter coat of X-21 and is currently drying

 

[Hutch]

Nice!