My NYS&W models.

ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.


NYSW F45

Active Member
Well i've been more of a lurker then a poster. But for some reason i really want to finish my 3 projects. The FP45 i started and nearly finished, my sd80mac thats just painted, but may order new body and start over. And one of my sd40T-2's that i need to get a new shell for may just order an unpainted sd45t-2 since i dont think most people wont know the difference. I also want to see if i can get my old layout table up and running. Been sitting in the back garage since like 1990 when i was 10.

But here are 2 pics i could find of the FP45 and SD80Mac I started well over a year ago. Stupid me painted the shells before adding any detail parts. Kinda got anxious and wanted to see the finished product first. Kinda why i want to start the sd80mac over again. Also want to paint the trucks silver.
august207th20models202.png

august207th20models.png
 

jbaakko

Diesel Detail Freak
If you start over again, don't waist the $35 on a new Kato shell, try one of the following stripping methods:

90% Isopropyl Alcohol (Running Alcohol)
Original Pine-sol

Or orders online:
Easy Lift off

They all work great, and it'll save that shell, and a good $25.
 

jbaakko

Diesel Detail Freak
P.S. they good pretty darn good, in my eye, I've seen people selling worse for $300+ on eBay.
 

Smoke

Southern Railway lives on
They look good. If your adding the KATO detail parts to SD80MAC paint the parts while there still on the sprue. Then once you install them you will need to touch up the paint a little bit. Good luck and I look forward to the finished results.

-Smoke
 

Maxitrains

Member
If you want to strip paint from plastic shells, once I was told to use caustic soda, I never tried it myself, but my friends used to apply it on model aircrafts ( which has more thinner detailed plastic shells) without losing any details from them.

As I said I never needed to use it myself, but as for others I heard it worked great.
 

NYSW F45

Active Member
Thanks guys. I ruined one kato shell when i first got the kit. Some parts broke off and paint didn't look right. I tried the 99% alcohol, it worked a little bit, but not to get into the more detail parts. One thing im not happy with is the shine. I'de rather have a more flat color to it. I used tamiya camel yellow and black for paint.

I'de love to know what paint was used on your trains smoke and mtrpls? Granted im sure you've been doing this alot longer then me, but is there any tips to make sure the paint doesn't look to thick?
 

jbaakko

Diesel Detail Freak
Airbrush and airbrush thinner for solvent based paint, or windex for water based paint, and MANY MANY thin coats. Though, I myself, like to stick to spray paints.

Anyways, shiny colors are the best, because decals sit down better on gloss paint. Once you've decaled it, you dull cote it, with either Testors Dull cote, or use some other cleat flat or satin spray finish.
 

NYSW F45

Active Member
oh ok, i didn't know there was a dulcoat to dull the paint. I'll look into it. I myself like the spray paint, i do take my time and do thin coats with multiple passes over the course of an hour or two.
 

Smoke

Southern Railway lives on
Thanks guys. I ruined one kato shell when i first got the kit. Some parts broke off and paint didn't look right. I tried the 99% alcohol, it worked a little bit, but not to get into the more detail parts. One thing im not happy with is the shine. I'de rather have a more flat color to it. I used tamiya camel yellow and black for paint.

I'de love to know what paint was used on your trains smoke and mtrpls? Granted im sure you've been doing this alot longer then me, but is there any tips to make sure the paint doesn't look to thick?
When I strip KATO Shells I leave the shells in there for couple days. KATO's paint isn't really paint but more of an ink so it takes forever to come off. even after a couple days of soaking it still takes quite a bit of scrubbing to get the paint off. I end up having to soak it multiple times, to get all the paint off. I have been using Modelflex colors, and they go on pretty much flat, more of a semi-gloss than flat but far from gloss. I then spray it with gloss coat to put decals on. Once I have the decals on, and I am happy withe them, I spray it with a coat of flat clear paint.

If you want to discuss this in greater detail you can email or PM me. I don't want to clog up the forum with a whole bunch of stuff.

-Smoke
 

NYSW F45

Active Member
will do thanks for the tips. I'll see if i can pick up some 99% alcohol this weekend. Have some fiancee free time. lol.
 




Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)


ModelRailroadForums.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com

RailroadBookstore.com - An online railroad bookstore featuring a curated selection of new and used railroad books. Railroad pictorials, railroad history, steam locomotives, passenger trains, modern railroading. Hundreds of titles available, most at discount prices! We also have a video and children's book section.

ModelRailroadBookstore.com - An online model railroad bookstore featuring a curated selection of new and used books. Layout design, track plans, scenery and structure building, wiring, DCC, Tinplate, Toy Trains, Price Guides and more.

Top