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I might use them on the few mainline switches which in reality would be power switches anyways. I'd use manual push-pull throws on the fascia (is that the right word?). This works great on some of the modules, but a few of the switches will be blocked by the lumber framing underneath.
Maybe use a lever from CTC parts, in conjunction with the 90 degree turn part from Proto:87 stores? The CTC lever would push-pull on a rod, connecting to the 90 degree turn part, which would then connect at standard 90 degree angle to the track. http://www.ctcparts.com
I just read about using a slide switch embedded in the layout, as a sliding switch actuator. Again, this works great, minus the mainline... The rod connects through the plastic slide, when you slide the false stand, which would be connected to the slide switch, it switches the turnout...
ANE Model has a nice servo operated switch idea. The cheap kit is $20. This would allow for power switches. Little costly however.
My current thought, is to use modified Caboose throws on the "branchline" switches, and Blue Point machines on the mainline switches. Does this sound viable?
I'm using blue points on my entire layout. The main thing i have against about cab. ground throws is that your arm blocks everyones view everytime you switch a turnout.
Good thought. The issue I'm having right now, with the blue points, is the space under the layout, I designed the whole layout with Caboose throws in mind, then changed my mind. With some creative cutting of the foam base, I might be able to fit them...
The .135" travel throws? #105R & #206S? I've been looking for those at the LHS, they don't seem to carry them. Are they smaller then the HO scale counterparts? I'll be back down there Monday, after a stop off at Radio Shack.
The .135" travel throws? #105R & #206S? I've been looking for those at the LHS, they don't seem to carry them. Are they smaller then the HO scale counterparts? I'll be back down there Monday, after a stop off at Radio Shack.
not sure which I used in particular, only that it was N scale and has been working just fine. (iirc, it was 105 but it's been about 20 years...) but I know that the throw distance matched very well with what I needed. Perhaps tonight or this weekend I can get a pic on the layout. It may be what I need to get up there.....
Gene,
Got it! I know what they are now. I didn't know they were called choc-blocks. Thanks much for the info and drawing! There certainly are many ways to skin a cat.
Jimmy...no problem.
A bit more info...I just glued the choc-blocs to the bottom of my baseboard, and in most cases only needed one block per rod. Also..I used straightened #1 paperclips as the wire thru the baseboard to operate the switch...of course my baseboards aren't very thick
Here's some pics from the layout (thanx for the inspiration!).
Notes:
the white dot indicates at a distant glance that it is aligned for the main. The "flip" side has a red dot on a white background.
I used square styrene sized to match the ties as a base. I built the base up until it was at the right level.
There certainly are many ways to skin a cat.