Module Construction

[D&J RailRoad]

Updating this thread.
Decided to cut the 8' modules down to two 4' modules. Just too cumbersome to move the 8' modules around.
First thing was to mark and cut the rails. The top deck of the 8' module is two 4' X 2' sheets of plywood butted together.
Next cut is the buss wires underneath. The final cut was the side frame piece. Tried to separate the two halves but they wouldn't separate. Forgot to cut the cork roadbed. Quick fix with a razor saw.

Next step was to relocate the legs on each half. I'm using the PVC pipe legs on this one but I think I'll try something different and more cost effective. I'll put all four of the PVC pipe legs on this module and convert the other half to 2X2 legs but with the adjustment being near the top so I don't have to crawl on the floor to adjust the height.
Also, need to install the electrical barrier on this end and cut the Anderson Power Pole connectors to the leads.

 

[D&J RailRoad]

Building the 2X2 adjustable legs is next on this project. The remaining half of the module will get 4 of these new design legs.
The adjuster will consist of a T nut, 3/8" 16 thread and a threaded rod, 6" long with same thread.
Cut the top part of the leg about 1" long. Drilled into the end of the leg about 3 1/2" so the rod could extend in past the T nut for stability. Counter sunk the top part of the hole for the larger part of the T nut then hammered it in and threaded the rod into it. Pretty stable piece.

Did the same with the bottom part of the leg then built the leg socket and installed and numbered the leg.
Much cheaper than the PCV pipe version and once again, the leg height can be adjusted while standing instead of crawling on the floor.

 

[Sirfoldalot]

Brilliant !!

How did you cut the rails straight - so as to match?

 

[D&J RailRoad]

I laid a ruler across the yard and marked the rails with black felt tip then cut em with a Dremel. The modules will always be assembled in the same order so the tracks will line up even if the cut was off a slight bit, one way or the other.
I install Masonite panels on the ends of the modules to protect the tracks from snagging on shirts while moving them.
I have em all labeled so they end up on the correct modules. No template would be close enough to align the panels so they could be used on any module.

 

[logandsawman]

Hi Ken,

Back on post 59, your PVC legs are very clever, that is new to me. I perceive they may be a touch wobbly, however the height adjustment ability is ingenious.

I wonder how the 2 x 2's are going to stack up in terms of steadiness.

Dave

 

[Sirfoldalot]

OK -- What method do you use to connect the modules?
Some type of "pin", clamps, or is it a guess?

Are the ends of the rail cut on a 90 degree?
If so, how? I always had to cut at a slight angle with a Dremel!

 

[D&J RailRoad]

I use "C" clamps, two per module butt. Just align them and tighten the clamps down. Any minor adjustment needed is just a matter of slightly loosening the clamps and bumping the module as needed.
Yeah, the Dremel cut may be at a slight angle, but it still works fine.
As for the stability of the legs, I cut the threaded rod to 6" long so it will go into each leg about 3" for stability. After I get all four legs done today, I'll post some more pictures of the whole thing.

 

[D&J RailRoad]

Improving on the adjustable leg design, I came up with a couple more options to improve things.
You can also do this with your existing module legs.
In the previous design, the T nuts can pull out of the leg, however, the leg is always under pressure when supporting a module so no problem there. It's just when the leg is being transported it can pull apart.

The improvement in this part is to use a Brad Hole T nut. Just as the name indicates, the T nut uses brads or screws to keep them in place. I used a 1" wood drill to counter sink the hole below the surface of the end of the leg.

Second drilled hole 7/16" is for the body of the T nut, just about 1" deep into the leg. After that, a 3/8" drill to go an additional two inches to accommodate the 3/8" X 16 threaded rod.
Once the holes are drilled, place the brad hole T nut into the leg then mark and drill one of the holes to temporarily hold a screw. Doing this keeps the T nut from spinning on ya when the counter sink the screw holes.
Remove the first screw and install screws in the other two holes that you counter sunk then counter sink the first hole.
Install the #6 X 11/2" screws.

Apply the Brad Hole T nut to the other half of the leg and you're done.

 

[D&J RailRoad]

If the previous adjustable module leg isn't easy enough, this one is even easier and less expensive with fewer parts.
You can also do this with your existing module legs.
This version uses a brass wood insert nut.

The Brass wood insert nut costs about $1.69 in most hardware stores. You can also use steal hex wood insert nuts that has an Allen socket.
Cut a 6" long 3/8" X 16 threaded rod. This provides stability of the leg as the rod extends into the leg with a snug fit.
Once again, cut a 39" 2"X2" leg then cut 10" off the top.
Starting with the 10" top section of the leg, measure for the center of the leg.

Use a 1/2" drill to make a 1" deep hole.
Use a 3/8" drill to drill further into the leg about 3 1/2".
Use a large flat blade screwdriver to drive the brass nut insert into the hole.
Be careful not to apply to much pressure on the top tabs. They can break off easily.

Prepare the other half of the leg in the same fashion then join them together.
Now, you can adjust your module legs while standing instead of having to get down on your hands and knees.