Metal Loco railings


Toolbelt

Member
Seems there's a mix of both plastic and metal loco railings even toward the upper end models. Call it pet peave but I much prefer metal. Are there any brands that consistently use metal for their mid/upper level diesel offerings? Any reasons to avoid metal railings?
 
I believe the preference for plastic has to do with them being thinner and molded in color.
Plastic handrails have better detail in the stanchions usually but there are after market ones as good.
Metal handrails can be painted of course and are more robust.
In some cases the two can be changed out for the other.
 
I make my own, metal of course. You can't glue plastic back together if the stanchions or hand rails break, but you can resolder brass.
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Built both E44s about 20 years ago and they were taken to places, taken in and out of the boxes numerous times, all hand grabs and hand rails are brass rods and they have taken much abuse with only one stanchion actually breaking off the handrail, it's an easy resolder job. Manufacturers would be forced to raise the prices much higher than they already are, as the metal grab irons are much more time consuming to make. Really the only manufacturer who used metal (steel) hand rails extensively besides brass models, is older Athearn, maybe really old Lionel. So if metal is your thing, making your own is the way.
 
is older Athearn,
My only diesel is an Athearn GP50 purchased in 1988. I'm returning to the hobby and am relearning everything. My feeling is that if a $37 unit came with metal railings then, why shouldn't the $300 units have the same today? I see so many YouTubes of brand new high end units with bowed plastic railings straight out of the box. Do the mfg offer metal railing kits to upgrade from plastic, and if so, why aren't they using metal in the first place?
 
My only diesel is an Athearn GP50 purchased in 1988. I'm returning to the hobby and am relearning everything. My feeling is that if a $37 unit came with metal railings then, why shouldn't the $300 units have the same today? I see so many YouTubes of brand new high end units with bowed plastic railings straight out of the box. Do the mfg offer metal railing kits to upgrade from plastic, and if so, why aren't they using metal in the first place?
No they do not offer it...for the reasons i explained. Making metal handrails is not really possible with automation, at least not yet. Don't believe me, try it. If you want metal, either Athearn blue box series or scratchbuilding is the way to go.
 
Bending a wire is one thing.
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But try making horizontal and vertical pieces into one. Like i said, it is time consuming and no manufacturer which is trying to sell in large numbers will go for that. Such work is reserved for small runs because of labor involved.
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Look at the cross section on vertical stanchions of that GP30; they're actually "C" beams. To make sections like that in metal it would reguire special and expensive machinery, that's why for those who don't care about how flimsy plastic is, but want pure realism, these are done in plastic.
 
Bending a wire is one thing. View attachment 185782
But try making horizontal and vertical pieces into one. Like i said, it is time consuming and no manufacturer which is trying to sell in large numbers will go for that. Such work is reserved for small runs because of labor involved.View attachment 185783
Look at the cross section on vertical stanchions of that GP30; they're actually "C" beams. To make sections like that in metal it would reguire special and expensive machinery, that's why for those who don't care about how flimsy plastic is, but want pure realism, these are done in plastic.
How bout even a hybrid of plastic stanchions with metal rails even then?
 
Well provided the stanchions are self-supporting, and the railings are affixed to the loco at each end, they wouldn't need to be physically bonded to each other. The rail could just feed through a hole in each stanchion.
 
Well provided the stanchions are self-supporting, and the railings are affixed to the loco at each end, they wouldn't need to be physically bonded to each other. The rail could just feed through a hole in each stanchion.
Try to make something like that and see how it works.
 
Well provided the stanchions are self-supporting, and the railings are affixed to the loco at each end, they wouldn't need to be physically bonded to each other. The rail could just feed through a hole in each stanchion.
MTH did that in HO scale, and was vilified for how clunky and toylike they looked.
 
You can get metal replacements from A Line.


K V Models also have stanchions and other etched metal detail parts.

 



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