Maybe a silly question...

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PATrainman

New Member
But, I was wondering how you long time modelers, when operating your layout (read...switching carsand moving them to different industries), how do you uncouple the cars?

I mean, I have several cars with two different types of couplers, the old fashioned kind with the "interlocking" pieces of angled plastic, and on my two new locos, it has the kind, I suppose, they are supposed to be like the real thing...the only way that I have been able to uncouple the cars, is by picking them upfrom the track, and placing them where I want them.

Any suggestions?

Justin
 
What works for both types of couplers is a bamboo skewer like you use for making kabobs. Just stick the pointed end between the two couplers, twist, and 99% of the time, they will uncouple. It would be a lot easier to do this and your trains would run better if you switched to all Kadee type knuckle couplers that are body mounted but you can do that as you have the time and funds.
 


I've used the bamboo skewers as well.

I also have a small pen sized flash light that I got from the dollar store with a piece of heavy wire taped to it. I use the wire to pull the trip pin to one side to uncouple and can turn the light on to see what I'm doing! I suppose you could tape a skewer to the light as well.

I also recommend switching to a knuckle style coupler, preferably kadee, as funds permit.
 
I've chosen Sergents, so I've been using their top actuated magnet uncoupler. I'd recommend the skewer idea for Kadee's, thats what I used before the Sergents.
 
You can also use fixed magnets and electromagnets between or under the track. You drive your coupler over the magnet and they disengage. You ahve to have your couplers adjusted to the right height though.
 
Since we are on this topic again , I'm still working on the uncoupling thing, since kadee seems to need a very strong magnetic force to disengage the couplers, but I will keep on working on it till I make it, I will be working on temporary magnetic rods which I will activate from my control panel to disengage the cars I need, when I need. I haven't bought 30 pkts of Kadees for nothing now :p
 
will the couplers disengage everytime you go over the magnets? its the one thing i'll need if and when i build my layout.
 
I have recently purchased several boxes of the Bachmann E-Z Track, and they come with a magnet (fairly heavy) and a figure, and according to the instructions, you are supposed to place the magnet under the track, wherever you will want to uncouple thye cars (and place the figure there so you know where there is) and whenever you go slowly over the magnet, it will release the couplers, leaving the cars behind. But if you go quickly over the magnet, they do not become un-coupled...

I havent tried this, as most of my cars have the old style couplers...
mchmch4.jpg



Justin
 
I have used 3 items, Skewer typa thingy I rigged up using a kabob rod for a grill, I also placed 2 magnetic rods in a pattern along the inside of my rails in the yards { ran some thread to a box from them so they look like a detector and not 2 magnets} and team track sidings for my Kadee's.As for the older style I only have a few left but I found a track at a flea market made by bachman that looks opposite of a rerailer, it comes up a bit from the center and pulls the pin away from each creating a uncoupling.. Since I only have a few of these box cars I only have to use this piece of track 1 time on a siding at a warehouse.
 


will the couplers disengage everytime you go over the magnets? its the one thing i'll need if and when i build my layout.

Every time? No. You pretty much have to stop over them and allow the pressure to release on the coupler. I've heard of trains uncoupling at unwanted times, but I can't remember it happening when the train wasn't stopped over it.
 
And in that respect, it probably makes a great deal of sense to use the hands-on approach of the skewer since its utility is very close to that of the magnets...for my tastes. I line turnouts by that same skewer (tip inserted into the eye of the points hinge rivet), except where distant ones require push-pull actuators...by hand..., and I enjoy decoupling cars using that same handy too. The trick with doing it with the skewer is to ensure their is sufficient slack between the two cars which in a short stack of 2-5 free-rolling cars means you most often need to get the tip of a finger on one of them and encourage it to give some slack to the coupler as you insert the skewer directly between the two "fingers" that close together. A controlled, quick, clockwise twist of the skewer, and use that same other finger to run the controlled car back away from the other just 1/4". You are done.
 
One of the things I've learned is that, if you have a point on the layout that you can't uncouple a car by hand, you've done some bad planning. If you stick with the 2 foot reach rule, you should be able to get every turnout and every car and do things manually. I have one electric turnout because it's behind several buildings and hard to reach - I violated my own rule on that one because I faile to consider object height along with reach distance. Even though it's "automatic", I still have to carne my head over and make sure the points are set properly since a little piece of ballast will hang it up enough to derail cars. So, I basically use the same amount of effort as if it was a manual turnout anyway. Like Crandell, I enjoy both throwing switches and uncoupling cars manually because that's the way it's done on the real thing.
 
Bamboo skewers. Take about 50 of them for the layout, then tell the wife "Shish Kabob" or "Fondue!" tonite! Might get points for that, and pave the way for your next train purchase.....

:D

Kennedy
 




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