Learn from our Mistakes


if you plan to fail, you plan to fail ;)!!


if you like lawn darts just go with model plains instead!!

your not playing with toys, just modeling life.

if it goes don't fix it!
 
White (bubble) foam....I just *had* to find out for my self.:(
The blue doubled my costs, of course.........(grumble, grumble)
I hab a good shop vac but I didn't buy it to chase them bubbles.
Corollary - when using bubble foam only cut with hot knife or hot wire. I have used the white foam without bubble trouble.
 
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On the otherhand, my mistake was buying a complete set of passenger cars and engines in HO for the "Empire Builder" of the 50's. You just can't make the whole train fit on a 4X8 layout without it chasing it's tail. :eek:
I'm surprised it could even fit around the curves and not pass itself. But yes doing the math I see a 17 car train could indeed fit around the edges. nose to tail. Wow.
 
1. Buy a new loco

2. Run it but it doesn't work right; however you really like it and want to keep it

3. Spend a few months on and off trying to fix it, and fail

4. Ta da - it's now out of warranty, or if it still is in warranty whatever work that was done to it ("modifications") kicks it out of warranty
Buy a new loco. Don't take it out of the box for 10 years and then discover it doesn't work.
 
I guess I did get something that I couldn't use on my layout. When Riverossi first brought out their UP Chalenger, I got one and reworked it. It originally came iwth the smoke deflectors and twin smokestacks. The deflectors were removed, one stack removed and then a few details were added to copy an NP 5100 class Challener were added and was repainted to match the NP prototype. A lot of work was needed to get it operating prperly too. It was remotored with a can motor with a flywheel added and proper pic ups also added as it only got power from the first two drivers in each engine. It operates great now, but with the lighter rail I have on my railroad it wouldn't really have run on this track. Also, my turntables are far too short to fit a Challenger. What the heck, it does show up on occasions.
 
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Never try to catch a dropped X-Acto knife.


Hmm... what's this thumb
doing lying on the floor...?
o2.gif


 
Right, that's why I wear jeans. It gives me time to brush it off onto the concrete floor. :D

It sticks to the skin because it's hot enough to boil all the water out of the skin where it comes into contact with. (I accidentally touched a hot soldering gun once or twice!) That patch of skin then hurts like hell until your body eventually sheds it. If you're near a sink, cold running water will rehydrate the skin, numb the pain, and stop further damage.
 
Corollary - when using bubble foam only cut with hot knife or hot wire. I have used the withe foam without bubble trouble.

I have & will use those.

When making long straight cuts, I found my Japanese pull saw goes thru 2 inch blue foam slick a a whistle......once ya get the monkey motion right. Since its kerf is only about 1/32" wide there is very liffle mess and it is easy to guide.
 
I have & will use those.

When making long straight cuts, I found my Japanese pull saw goes thru 2 inch blue foam slick a a whistle......once ya get the monkey motion right. Since its kerf is only about 1/32" wide there is very liffle mess and it is easy to guide.

An old power knife works well on all types of foam plus they are really cheap at most second hand stores, it's still a little messy on the bead foam but does cut it very fast. You can also use it to gouge out shapes in the foam.
 
An old power knife works well on all types of foam plus they are really cheap at most second hand stores, it's still a little messy on the bead foam but does cut it very fast. You can also use it to gouge out shapes in the foam.
Now might be a good time to throw in that my "hot knife" is an old gun style soldering iron. I took out the soldering tips and preform a wire to the shape I want. I've got one I reuse often for for single track roadbed.
 



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