Layout Heigth


S

Scootermon

New Member
Hello all. Have been reading this forum for the past several months and have found little/no mention of layout heigth / reach length. I'm am a senior (old fart?) so reach and layout heigth are important to me as I can't climb over-under as well as I once could.

If the layout is too high one must use a step stool for those reachable parts and certainly pop up hatches for those deep-in width layouts. Not only that but one will be viewing essentially sideways to the rolling stock/scenery. If too low - waist heigth or a bit above that of the operator - one will have an 'overhead' view and this makes a small RR layout even smaller. My own several past RR layouts have been approx 40" above the floor. This makes viewing overall layout easy but takes away from the 'overhead' view. Since I'm only 5'-7" this is a great heigth for me. I use a step stool for that reach across the layout which I read is about 34" to be comfortable.

There have been professional mags dealing with this issue but the newcommers might miss this part of their planning. Don't make your layout too low or too high. Discuise your RR smallness with a lower view angle but not necessairily directly sideways. Looking down on the layout will make it seem more 'toylike'. Since in the real world of RRd'ing one views only a small portion of the track, we can accomplish a small portion of that experience by placing our layouts a little higher off the floor than what one would imagine.

Just a thought to pass on.
 
Scootermon said:
...If the layout is too high one must use a step stool for those reachable parts and certainly pop up hatches for those deep-in width layouts. Not only that but one will be viewing essentially sideways to the rolling stock/scenery. If too low - waist heigth or a bit above that of the operator - one will have an 'overhead' view and this makes a small RR layout even smaller. My own several past RR layouts have been approx 40" above the floor. This makes viewing overall layout easy but takes away from the 'overhead' view. Since I'm only 5'-7" this is a great heigth for me. I use a step stool for that reach across the layout which I read is about 34" to be comfortable.

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Hi. I purposefully built my layout so that much of it was close to sternum height, and the rest on up. I do have to use a three-step folding stool to reach the back and the heights. I knew this going in, but I wanted to have a surrounding layout with an operating pit that would place me in a fantasy land when operating it. In that respect, I got what I sought, and am not yet unhappy with my choices. Sure, moving the step-stool here and there gets old...I guess...but it's good exercise and a small price to pay for wide panoramic views.

I also knew I would be standing pretty much the whole time. I am about your height, and still young at 56, and enjoy being immersed from the viewing position rather than towering over the layout. Not that a bird's-eye view doesn't have its place and uses..it sure comes in handy at times, but the stepping stool affords that occasional view to me easily.

Still, your point is well taken. Is the layout to be used seated, standing, or both? How do you like to view your trains? Will someone, you or a spouse say, need or want storage space under the bench? (My wife asked for this feature, and it was an easy thing to do for her. All our Christmas "stuff" is in large plastic bins stacked under the bench modules.) If it is yes, then the bench will have to be higher than 40" in many cases.

In one of Kalmbach's freebie pamphlets that comes out once annually with an edition, they mentioned how to determine the best height. This might have been 2005. Essentially, find a bookcase with multiple shelves and imagine yourself manipulating and viewing a layout at the heights of the various shelves. One shelf will come reasonably close to what you feel you would like best. Then, it is just a matter of measuring the height of that shelf, adjusting for your own preference, and go from there. Do consider the effect of your decision on tracks at different levels if you are going to have a helix or a grade.
 
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Your points well taken. My layout is for standing operation also. Base track 40" with track climbing another 2" so it is real comfortable for viewing the rolling stock. I had my latest layout (foamboard base) at a lower heigth to start but didn't like the topside view so brought it up to its present heigth. Since it is a large shelf design, the front to back distance looked very short when viewed from 'above'. Another consideration when choosing a track design. Overall length is 8ft so that length wasn't a problem. I also know that 'correct' scenery will change the looks of almost any layout. For the beginner, many considerations for those evenings with the scratchpad and RR magazines.
 
Your points are well founded Scooterman. Many years ago myself and another modeler built the benchwork for a friend who was confined to a wheelchair. It was an interesting build for us as we had to address factors that we hadn't ever run across or needed to think about on our own railroads.
Benchwork height was much lower than typical and the legs and main girders had to be far enough in beyond the edges to allow the wheelchair clearance not only for the benchwork framing but also any wiring and other stuff that normally hangs under there. Widths were limited to as far as could be reached by his normal arm extension while seated. In this case about 22 inches as I recall. Even when we got to deciding building placement our buddy's physical limitations had to be considered so ground contour elevations and tall buildings were placed almost beyond his reach and beyond the innermost track so he didn't have to reach over them for any reason. It all worked out and he got many years of enjoyment from it.
 
I guess I come in on the lazy end of the scale. I am 6'1" and my lower deck is only 44" off the floor, which for me equates to an overhead crane view. I solve this by using office chairs (this is where the lazy comes in). By sitting in my chair I am at a slightly elevated eye level for the lower deck and by rolling along on the casters I can chase my train in comfort. For the upper deck (61") again I am at a slightly elevated eye level only now I must give up my chair, hehe. As for the reach, again lower level is no problem other than occasionally banging my head, for the upper a step stool, or in a couple locations even a step ladder is needed to reach into the corners.
 
Years ago at the age of about 30 yrs. old I built a layout w/a 58" heighth. The next layout at the age of about 45 yrs. old was 48" high. Then the next one was at the age of 58 & the heighth was 55" high. That one about did me in as far as back problems & having to stand on a short step stool to work on the layout. The layout just before this one was 52" high & now I'm 70 yrs. old & sometimes my 42" heighth wears me down when I have to clean my tracks standing on a 2 step step ladder. I think whatever you can stand at the age you are now makes a lot of difference in the heighth of your tables.
My depth on most of my tables is 3 ft. & some are 42" which is out of reach from standing on the floor.
 
I'm a proponent of the aerial view so the viewer can see many scenes at once without having to move around the layout constantly. My current layout is only 32" off the floor. It's a dogbone layout mosly against walls. If I built it at my usual former layout heights of around 44", a viewer would need a step stool to see the scenes toward the back of the layout. It's not terribly deep but there are some spots that are almost 46" deep and getting to those spots would require a step ladder if the benchwork was taller. Advancing age hasn't made that ption very palatable either. If I want to see my trains at eye level, my comfy dek chair works fine. :)
 
Build the layout at the height most comfortable for you. Use a chair while operating.

Many rivet counters go by the "book". I'm 56 years old, my layout is at 38", and I use a chair to operate the layout. It is a walk around and not very deep at most 30". The legs are adjustable so the modules can be used on other layouts that are taller or shorter.

Remember, it's your layout and your railroad. YOU are the one that has to deal with it. Build it so that it is most enjoyable to YOU.

Bob
 
Bob, your post summed it up really well. Now that the topic has been broached, perhaps the newcomers will consider layout heigth along with the other 'normal' factors one has to deal with. Perhaps the other family members will set the heigth as there is needed storage space as the layout uses up square footage in the overall house sq/ft.

Thanks all for jumping in on this topic. Some folks build the house around the layout. Others will have to use what space is available to them in the house/apartment they already have. Some have a very portable layout they place on a card table when operating and return it to a closet shelf when finished. Whatever works for 'ya including heigth, do it.
 
The recommended heights found in the "books" are just that: recommendations. Use your own sense of judgment, and factor in your height, arm reach, eyesight, and whether you'll be standing, sitting in a chair, or perched on a stool.

Before committing to cutting vast amount of lumber, or buying pre-fabbed layout sections (like I do, from Sievers, since I'm an electrical engineer, not a carpenter), set up a typical tabletop on something easily adjustable; say a bunch of milk crates.

Then get your chair, or stool, or shoes - whatever; and see what fits your needs. Check it out from all angles, and try reaching across to the furthest points. Adjust the crates (or boxes) as necessary. Then come back to it a couple of days later; don't get in a hurry to make a decision that you might regret.

Think about the lighting too; your 'test bed' that I just described might not work so well with your final lighting installation.

When you've found a solution that makes you comfortable, you might just find that your measurements of height fit none of the recommendations from the published experts. That's why Model Railroading is a hobby, and not rocket science.
 
All,

An oldtimer once told me that every layout is different. All layouts are for the "railroader" and as such, will always be associated with the builder's personality, likes/dislikes, and handicaps/limitations in mind.

He went on to say he "lovingly" refers to his layout as the MDRR(My Darn* Railroad). Which in ALL cases I must agree.

You need not please anyone but yourself when planning and building your road. It is for your enjoyment only. There is no need to "keep up with the Joneses". That only leads to the poor farm and a high degree of exasperation. Be selfish and build what YOU like.

Be flexible. No layout ever goes together as planned. You will need to adjust as you go. Be ready and willing to make the needed changes. Decide on what is important to you ahead of time. When it comes to the point you need to delete something delete the "unnecessary" or the "least wanted" from the layout, or be willing to make the scenes smaller. Or be able to slightly expand the layout to accommodate what you want.

Plan and prioritize you wants and needs. Assign a "priority number" to each element/structure. It will help down the road when putting it all together.

I would b the first to say that DCC is the way to go. My layout was converted midstream in the construction. So, it is not only DCC, but also has "districts". A bit of over kill but that's what I get for changing my mind. It is cheaper to go DCC in the beginning rather than converting later. The added cost in decoders is well worth the investment on down the road. You don't have to convert all of your engines in the beginning. Do a few at a time.

*(Note: he didn't really use the word "darn" but something pretty close)

Bob
 
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