Kadee Coupler Gauge Question


P

PMW

Well-Known Member
I've been able to correct any rolling stock I have which have any coupler issues except for one Athearn Genesis Engine. It is very unreliable regarding coupling. I've replaced and re-installed the couplers but front and back are still unreliable. Couplers on it seem to align well with those on other cars which work well?

I bought a Kadee #205 coupler gauge. It comes with a no. 5 and a #58 Scale Coupler. However, I use Kadee whiskers (148). A whisker coupler will not fit on the gauge. Did I buy the wrong gauge? Does it matter?

Thanks
 
I think the #148 goes into the #206?
Either way couplers should center with whatever coupler is in the jig.
 
I use the 205 with a #5 in it all the time to check 148's. The #5 in the coupler gauge is there to check the height of the car or locomotive to a standard, plus check the height above the rail of the trip pin.

Check to make sure there isn't too much up and down movement in the couplers on your locomotive. If there is too much slop you will have problems, especially them uncoupling while pulling a train.
 
PMW said:
I bought a Kadee #205 coupler gauge. It comes with a no. 5 and a #58 Scale Coupler. However, I use Kadee whiskers (148). A whisker coupler will not fit on the gauge. Did I buy the wrong gauge? Does it matter?
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It doesn't matter. The #5 coupler is identical to the #148, except the #148 has whiskers. Use the #5 in the #205 gauge to get a proper mating.
 
fire5506 said:
I use the 205 with a #5 in it all the time to check 148's. The #5 in the coupler gauge is there to check the height of the car or locomotive to a standard, plus check the height above the rail of the trip pin.

Check to make sure there isn't too much up and down movement in the couplers on your locomotive. If there is too much slop you will have problems, especially them uncoupling while pulling a train.
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Thanks. So far as I can tell it looks good but it just won't couple well as often as everything else! I hope I can get to the bottom of it
 
PMW said:
Thanks. So far as I can tell it looks good but it just won't couple well as often as everything else! I hope I can get to the bottom of it
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Could you take a photo side on showing the two couplers facing each other, not the gauge but with another car, it certainly sounds as already mentioned, that there's too much slop in the locomotive draft box so as it travels it uncouples from the following car. it's that or your track isn't very flat in places.

Does the Loco always uncouple on the same sections of track ?
 
PMW said:
Thanks. So far as I can tell it looks good but it just won't couple well as often as everything else! I hope I can get to the bottom of it
Click to expand...
Are they Kadee couplers on the locomotive? Have you tried different couplers, such as another set of 148s? Athearn Genesis locomotives come with McHenry couplers which aren't as good as Kadees.
 
fire5506 said:
Are they Kadee couplers on the locomotive? Have you tried different couplers, such as another set of 148s? Athearn Genesis locomotives come with McHenry couplers which aren't as good as Kadees.
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Thanks for the feedback. I replaced all of the couplers on my rolling stock. Because this loco is giving me trouble I have reinstalled the whiskers and swapped them out for one if not two (I can’t remember) other ones.

it seems to couple better at higher speeds but everything else on my layout couples well at slower speeds :rolleyes:
 
Smudge617 said:
Could you take a photo side on showing the two couplers facing each other, not the gauge but with another car, it certainly sounds as already mentioned, that there's too much slop in the locomotive draft box so as it travels it uncouples from the following car. it's that or your track isn't very flat in places.

Does the Loco always uncouple on the same sections of track ?
Click to expand...
Thanks Smudge. The problem I'm having isn't cars becoming uncoupled from the engine but rather getting coupled to them in the first place (e.g. in a yard or industrial spur). Once it's coupled to the car(s) or train it's fine.

I don't think it's my track work because even on some short 2 percent grades everything stays couples. Also if it were my trackwork I would think other rolling stock would likely have the same problem.

As I've mentioned I've tried more than one pair of Whiskers and still it doesn't couple consistently on the front or rear! Is it possible that there is some kind of defect with the engine itself? The way the plastic was molded?
 
PMW said:
Thanks Smudge. The problem I'm having isn't cars becoming uncoupled from the engine but rather getting coupled to them in the first place (e.g. in a yard or industrial spur). Once it's coupled to the car(s) or train it's fine.

I don't think it's my track work because even on some short 2 percent grades everything stays couples. Also if it were my trackwork I would think other rolling stock would likely have the same problem.

As I've mentioned I've tried more than one pair of Whiskers and still it doesn't couple consistently on the front or rear! Is it possible that there is some kind of defect with the engine itself? The way the plastic was molded?
Click to expand...
Ok, I get what your saying, I don't think it's the loco, unless both front and rear couplers are doing this, are they ?

Check that the coupler itself is not rubbing on the chassis or shell.

It could also be the draft box, there may be a small piece of flashing in/on the box itself which is stopping the coupling from centering properly, obviously if it's not centered then it won't couple up properly.

Let us know what you find.:)
 
I have observed before that some engines have coupler boxes that are not sized right for whisker couplers, the whiskers protrude out and they don't keep the coupler properly centered. When I experience that, I just substitute a #5 coupler and brass centering spring.
 
Smudge617 said:
Ok, I get what your saying, I don't think it's the loco, unless both front and rear couplers are doing this, are they ?

Check that the coupler itself is not rubbing on the chassis or shell.

It could also be the draft box, there may be a small piece of flashing in/on the box itself which is stopping the coupling from centering properly, obviously if it's not centered then it won't couple up properly.

Let us know what you find.:)
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Yes, it is being stubborn on both ends. I have other Athearn Genesis engines and haven't had this problem before.

I'm not sure what the best way is to make sure it's centering properly...it looks good against the gauge and I always give the old finger flick back and forth after installing new couplers to check that it's moving freely and centering back.

I'll investigate when I get a chance. Thanks for your thoughts.
 
PMW said:
Yes, it is being stubborn on both ends. I have other Athearn Genesis engines and haven't had this problem before.

I'm not sure what the best way is to make sure it's centering properly...it looks good against the gauge and I always give the old finger flick back and forth after installing new couplers to check that it's moving freely and centering back.

I'll investigate when I get a chance. Thanks for your thoughts.
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It could be the coupler is rubbing on the bodyshell if it's both ends, a fine file on the shell above the coupling should sort it out.
 
santafewillie said:
I have observed before that some engines have coupler boxes that are not sized right for whisker couplers, the whiskers protrude out and they don't keep the coupler properly centered. When I experience that, I just substitute a #5 coupler and brass centering spring.
Click to expand...
Exactly what I do in that situation Willie.
 
PMW said:
I'm not sure what the best way is to make sure it's centering properly...it looks good against the gauge and I always give the old finger flick back and forth after installing new couplers to check that it's moving freely and centering back.
Click to expand...
Use of the gauge has nothing to do with the centering. The only way to tell is visual inspection. If the whiskers are sticking out of the coupler box at all, it won't reliably center. Using the #5 brass centering spring, as explained in post #13, technically extends the coupler box, allowing everything to work more reliably.
I am on vacation right now, if your issue still exists next week after I get home, I will take some pictures to show what you need to know.
 
Smudge617 said:
It could be the coupler is rubbing on the bodyshell if it's both ends, a fine file on the shell above the coupling should sort it out.
Click to expand...
Thanks, Smudge! I couldn't see that it was obviously rubbing against the shell but I did what you suggested (maybe a risky move?) but even though it's only been a few tries (front and back) it has been working 100 percent so far! Hopefully this will turn out to be a permanent solution. Thanks again!
 
PMW said:
I've been able to correct any rolling stock I have which have any coupler issues except for one Athearn Genesis Engine. It is very unreliable regarding coupling. I've replaced and re-installed the couplers but front and back are still unreliable. Couplers on it seem to align well with those on other cars which work well?
Click to expand...
I don't see anywhere in the thread you specify the exact Genesis locomotive you have. As I recall several of them need #36 or #38 couplers rather than #5 or any of the whiskers.
 
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