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Ideas for a shelf style layout
Thread starterPhotogdad
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I am needing ideas for a shelf style layout. I'm thinking 2'x6' straight or 2'x6' L shape. I would like some switching action, a small 2-3 track yard, possibly a mainline for future expansion and a run around or passing siding. Also need ideas for materials for light weight construction.
Its been every part of 11 years since I have done any modeling so cut me some slack...lol. Thanks in advance.
Hopefully you are in N or Z scale, since 6 feet of length is not enough for all the stuff you want in H0 scale.
In H0 scale a single transition era 40-foot car is about 4.5" - making only two fit per foot of length, a small road engine is about 8" long, and even a small three track yard coming off a siding or mainline needs a surprising length of track for the yard ladder and the tracks to be of much use.
Here is e.g. an couple of small H0 yard from my H0 scale layout - cars shown are 40-foot cars:
River Avenue Yard:
First Street Yard:
If you go N scale, your 6 feet is the equivalent of about 10 feet of length in H0 scale.
Lance Mindheim has a couple of good books on designing and building small shelf switching layouts - search for his name on amazon.com to see his books.
Afraid I have to agree with steinjr. HO is hard to do in a small space-that's the whole reason N scale exists though! I would try N scale, or even Z, the choice is up to you, but there ends to be more available in N then Z
It will be in HO. Not looking to have much going on right away, just enough to do a little switching. I respect those who are into the smaller scales, its just not for me, but I do appreciate the tip.
It will be in HO. Not looking to have much going on right away, just enough to do a little switching. I respect those who are into the smaller scales, its just not for me, but I do appreciate the tip.
It is doable to do a switching layout in 6 feet of length. But going to 8 feet or 10 feet makes for a lot better options - or equivalently changing scales, so you get the equivalent of 10 feet in a smaller scale.
Ha ha ha, I read that as 2'6" x 2'6" in an L. It'd be great for N!
I think you can build something interesting in HO on 2'x6'. Just keep your equipment really small and it will be a much more enjoyable process.
There are two and three axle Hustlers available that are fairly wee, and cars that are 20 to 30 scale feet (about 4" long) that would work well. You'd want to add a lot of weight to all of them so they move accurately.
It is doable to do a switching layout in 6 feet of length. But going to 8 feet or 10 feet makes for a lot better options - or equivalently changing scales, so you get the equivalent of 10 feet in a smaller scale.
Thanks for all the good ideas and tips guys. I am going to be sticking to HO and I've drawn up a point to point switching layout that will fit in a 6x6 area in a "L" design. I'm still planning on modeling a fictitious railroad that interchanges with UP & BNSF. However I'm staying true to a switching layout and what I have so far (and I'm sure it will change when construction begins) will keep me busy until I can expand.
Aha - you did not actually mean a 2x6 foot layout.
You meant an L shaped layout made out of one 2x6 and one 2x4 section - ie fitting along two sides of an area that is 6 x 6 feet. The challenge of a doing an L shaped layout with fairly short legs is that a lot of the space will be on a curve.
Since you are also mentioning interchanging with the BNSF, you seemingly are thinking modern era - i.e. longer cars.
A layout that size would work better with a 1950s setup - mainly 40' cars, rather than with newer bigger cars:
Curve radius for unassisted coupling on a curve (rule of the thumb: 5 x length of longest piece of rolling stock):
40' cars (5.5" length cars) - 27" radius curve
60' cars (8.25" length cars) - 41" radius curve
89' cars (12.3" length cars) - 61" radius curve
Earlier era would be a lot easier to make work on a smallish shelf like that, if you are not willing to go N scale. You probably still will not be able to fit in all the stuff you want, but for a small L-shaped layout, have a look at Byron Henderson's "Alcos in the Alcove" plan here:
Well I have cut out a lot of what I want, but keeping it in mind for a future expansion. I'm down to a couple of industries and interchanges with the bigger RR's. I am reconsidering the era so as what you mentioned. So with that in mind it would be the UP and ATSF. But thats still open to think about. I've got a drawing made up (can't figure out the online program..lol) and I'm revising it to get exactly what I want. I'm hoping that I can expand in the very near future.
Now with that out of the way, which is better. Laying the roadbed directly onto the plywood deck, or use the blue foam board? I'm open for ideas in this area. I've always just laid the roadbed on the plywood, but would the foam board make it eaiser (and lighter) to cut out any areas where I would want to run a creek or small stream? Any ideas would be welcomed.
I've been following this thread for a little while, figure I may as well throw my .02 in. On the layout design, an easy way to get more track space is to run the tracks at an angle. If you go to my thread "Thoughts on the shelf layout" in this section of the forum you will get the idea. It will also make the adjoining curve much more gentle and easier to deal with.
On the foundation question, I personally like to use blue board. It makes it easier to dig out areas to hide wire or make ditches.
Brad,
When it comes to using the foam board, which I think I'm going to use, hpw did you go about mounting it to the framework and if you used cork roadbed, how did you mount it to the foam board?
You can just use good ole latex caulk for everything. That's what I did.
Make sure you get Latex caulk with Silicone. You can the DAP at Home Depot. It also comes in colors, I use grey for track so it doesn't show through the ballast.
Latex caulk for:
Foam to plywood base
Trackbed to foam base
Track to trackbed
Some folks feel that the trains are too noisy if the track is laid straight on the extruded foam. Dunno if I agree since I've always used cork or WS roadbed glued with latex caulk to extruded foam (and have no experience with track directly on foam).
Back to the OP, the 6-ft length is going to limit you some as far as how many tracks you can lay - it's surprising how much length a turnout takes up. Angling the track diagonally across your area will help, as somebody mentioned, but that might really limit any expansion possibilities. If you could do a 6X6 L-shape, you'd be better off (12-ft total run).
I do agree that running at an angle can get you stuck into a corner. But if done right, it can easily be included into a future layout. My attached picture shows my small layout with future expansion on both sides.
You could easily "clutter" it up more with more spurs. My layout is centered around a grain elevator so open spaces and simple track work go hand in hand.
Well after thinking about it and doing some sketches, I think I am going to use cork roadbed on top of the foam board. One it will get it directly off the foam and two it will provide a extra noise reducer.
Believe me, if I had the extra space I'd go all out, but I can only work with the space I have and as of now, its 6x6. But believe me the tips and advice that have been given I am taking everything in so any other ideas or tips will not go unnoticed. Thanks for all the help.
