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So I've got foam down...what's the best material to use to make a grade? Just cut the styrofoam at an angle? Remember I'm N scale, so I've got to do things on a much smaller level!
I'm in HO, not N, but it seems to me that a grade is a grade, 1% is still 1 inch in a hundred, but unlike HO, you only need to go about half as high, right?
Well, if you had used plywood, Cookie cutter with a saber saw works like a champ. But since you are using foam, sounds like you have to shell out more money and buy Woodland Scenics riser blocks. Oh, how foam is so much cheaper.
Just my 2 cents, you'll surely hear other opine.
Joe
PS,
And welcome to the hobby! Age is relative, I think it is neat that you are DOING! Good luck with your layout.
Joe Daddy is right.....woodland scenics is the easiest choice with foam. If your grade is dead straight, you could probably cut your own, but I'd think it would be almost impossible if your grade has any curves. The woodland Scenic stuff can be bent in curves. A really bargain basement method is to use an atlas pier set to make the grade, then cover the whole affair with the scenery of your choice. You could leave it bare too, but that's not very prototypical.
I think Woodland Scenics makes risers in N scale. That is by far the easiest way to get a nice smooth grade. You could cut styrofoam at an angle but I think you'll find it difficult to get a smooth grade doing this. HO is more forgiving of any little bumps or dips in a grade but you've got to be right on the money in N scale for reliable operation.
They actually make risers that are "Cross scale" because, well grade is the same in any scale. Their site is down at the moment though: http://www.woodlandscenics.com/
Hmmm! You're right Josh. But, does N scale go with say 1% when HO would go with 2% or is that also the same. (This is a question for curiosity, not being a smart a**. )
Rise is rise, it takes 100" to rise 1" for a 1% grade, it takes 50 inches to rise an inch with a 2% grade. The main difference with N and HO risers would be the width of the roadbed, right?
As I mentioned before, with HO, you need about a 3.5" rise for an over under while with N you only need about 2".
You could pay WS for foam risers, or if you already have foam cuttings left over from construction of the bench surface, why not make your own risers? Simply do a mock-up of the grade with lath or slats of some kind, even a strip of plywood will do. Allow for your transitions into and out of the grade at each end, and then simply cut and shape blocks of left-over foam spaced every 3" or so until you have enough in place, glued with cheap latex caulk, to support whatever you will eventually use for your subroadbed.
Joe, what I was curious about is where a 2 - 2.5% grade for HO is considered pushing the max by many, is it the same for N scale or is it different/less? I guess what I am saying is can the N scale loco handle the same per cent of grade as an HO scale loco? I've never heard anyone comment about this and being an HO type, have never thought about it until this thread.
You won't go wrong with the WS risers. I've done cookie cutter, hand carved foam grades and the WS risers. The latter will be the easiest for your application.
Rex.......grade is the same all the way up to the real thing....Real Railroads try for as little grade as possible, but here in Montana there are several passes near me that are 2 to 2.2% and require helper engines to get most trains over the top. That costs extra money in the real world, but you gotta do what you gotta do to get the trains through. I know there are grades out there much steeper too. So 2 % is the same whether you're driving an SD70 for BNSF or your z scale model train.
Rex, I've heard allot about 2% max, ect. However, I've seen a few very successful layouts with 3%+ grades. It really depends how you do it. I think he should be fine with the 2% grade, as long as you're not pushing the load limits, and keep ample power on the train you'll be fine.
Sorry guys, my wording is terrible.
I know that a percent grade is the same in all scales, but wasn't sure that the recommended max for N scale would be the same as HO. Thought maybe the weight differences would have an effect.
Josh: Oh, I agree. Train length, motive power (steam/diesel), number of drivers, condition of rolling stock axles/wheels, weight of rolling stock, straight grade, curve grade, and etc...
To give an example of variances: I made a near perfect grade of ~2% that should have accommodated all my trains without problem...but several of my steamers would slip and even stop. Something unknown to me at the time was the effects (lateral friction of the wheels/rail) of a curve in a grade. From what some figured, I had the equivalent of darn near 3 percent. This was a looping curve.