How many power packs?


E

EngaugeAndGo

New Member
I'm building a modest N-gauge layout, about 3ft x 4ft. I don't plan to ever run more than a single train. But everything I've read seems to indicate I need to block out the layout because the train will lose power. So do I really need to make sure the "far" part of the layout, sidings, etc. are wired and powered with a separate power pack?
 
Wow so it really is that simple?! And what about accessories, like lighting, signals, etc. Is it a good idea to put those on a separate powerpack?
 
EngaugeAndGo said:
... And what about accessories, like lighting, signals, etc. Is it a good idea to put those on a separate powerpack?
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I'd say, optional. if you have LED lights for building, and only a couple of turnouts, use the accessory output of the single power pack.
On the other hand, if you build a steel mill with electric cranes and a smelting furnace, then add a second power pack.
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I think what you need is not blocks but feeders.
Attach one lead to the outer rail close to the power and another on the far side of the layout and attach the other lead to the inner rail at the same locations.
If you have turnouts (switches) you may need to add feeders to the stub rails if the power does not get routed.
Most basic power packs have another set of terminals labeled accessories, this is usually AC and intended for lighting or as the name implies, accessories.
 
Hmm feeders. Okay that makes sense. I guess too, I can just learn by doing - get my track, connect it all up without any of "the goodies", do simple wiring and see what works as far as power, turnouts, etc. Almost like a proof of concept. Then do it for real once it's figured out.

As for accessories - ya see that tiny little house on top of the highest platform in the steel mill? I'll probably buy one half its size and put a little dim light in it. :) My god my wife would kill me if she saw that in the hobby room.
 
EngaugeAndGo said:
Hmm feeders. Okay that makes sense. I guess too, I can just learn by doing - get my track, connect it all up without any of "the goodies", do simple wiring and see what works as far as power, turnouts, etc. Almost like a proof of concept. Then do it for real once it's figured out.
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Yes, that is my philosophy. Don't invent and solve problems that don't really exist.
 
I use these: The DCS for MTH locos with DCS decoders, the Digitrax for all locos with DCC decoders, and the MRC Analog DC unit for all locos which will run on straight DC.

And I DON'T use bus bars and feeders, because the rails on my Atlas O Scale 2-Rail track are heavier in cross-section than any bus bar wiring you care to install. They give me NO voltage drop over my entire 130-foot loop.

I simply make the connection from my controller to the 2 rails with 18 gauge hookup wire and the feed will be just as strong at any point on my 130-foot route. I confirmed this with a multimeter.

Brakeman Hal
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