HO oddball layout construction


leva said:
Try Anyrail, they have a trial version that lets you use a max of 50 pieces. You can use sections of flex to replace curved pieces and some creative juggling to work out a pretty complicated plan but keeping it under the 50 piece limit. Just break the layout down into sections and save them.

How high is your layout?
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46" including pink foam. My perfect height for working on stuff and watching the fun.
 
Thanks Chet. I like switching as well. Referring to the photos. Where the trap door is is going to be a small town or country crossroads. With 1, maybe 2 rail lines going thru. This will allow me to get my technique together for the many lift outs I will be attempting. I plan on having a yard from the front of the layout going towards the "pointy" part. I guess I'll post a chicken scratch diagram. And thanks all for the track planning software suggestions. I am more of a put stuff together and see what happens and works. That is why I'm using Unitrack.
 
Chicken scratched layout plan

HO chicken.jpg Please ask questions and I can explain each part. Thanks.:D
 
Lack barry said:
Thanks Chet. I like switching as well. Referring to the photos. Where the trap door is is going to be a small town or country crossroads. With 1, maybe 2 rail lines going thru. This will allow me to get my technique together for the many lift outs I will be attempting. I plan on having a yard from the front of the layout going towards the "pointy" part. I guess I'll post a chicken scratch diagram. And thanks all for the track planning software suggestions. I am more of a put stuff together and see what happens and works. That is why I'm using Unitrack.
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"see what happens and works."

Right on! I'm on my second attempt at a decent yard and it is much better, I'm not into cutting the flex track yet and it conforms well to 'abstract' layouts like mine that are 'fluid'. LOL!
 
When I got out of the service I was in train withdrawal but really had no room for a layout and decided to build a small N scale layout that I could slide under a bed. The guy at Orange Blossom Hobbies turned me onto flex track and I never looked back.

When I changed over to HO scale I started my layout with hand laid code 70 but completed the track work with flex track and it is such a pleasure to work with. They make a rail nipper that is made for cutting track and isn't a problem at all. I used to use a Dremel tool, but the rail nippers are a lot easier. Flex is especially good because you don't have to hunt around for a small section of track to make things fit, especially in yards or to fit in an industrial siding. Also it is great for easements into a curve.
 
I did an n scale layout a few years ago using all Atlas flextrack And the rail cutters http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Xuron-Tools-p/xur-90028.htm

I had multiple problems with the Atlas crossovers and switched to Unitrack. The #6 crossovers are gold, no problems of any kind in the 40 or 50 I had. I had 4 double crossovers so that is 16 right there. I will probably go Peco flextrack for the entire around the room thing. But I will stay with the Unitrack for the "Trapezoid" because it suits the way I work/think better.

OH, and new guy, I love the Lone Watie line, "Endeavor to persevere"
I too would call my layouts "fluid". Some day I might build a layout I am completely satisfied with?
 
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Larry its nice to see you have put something on paper. Are you planning to do any switching operations on your layout or simply running trains and scenic-ing it up? I enjoy building the layout and all that has to do with the journey but also enjoy running the trains and look forward to running op sessions on my own.
 
Lynnb said:
Larry its nice to see you have put something on paper. Are you planning to do any switching operations on your layout or simply running trains and scenic-ing it up? I enjoy building the layout and all that has to do with the journey but also enjoy running the trains and look forward to running op sessions on my own.
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One of the great things about this hobby is the fact that a person can build and run their layout and trains any way they like. Obviously there are guidelines for table (wood mostly I guess) construction, running electrical, etc.

Truth be told I have never done any landscaping, well in real life I did. I have gone for the maximum amount of locos pulling the maximum number of rolling stock on as much track as I could fit on the table. Not bragging, I'm actually kind of ashamed I haven't done the scenic thing. :(
Although I did have some "bucket of angry snakes" running around :D


This time will be different. I am going for a more minimalist approach on track & trains and doing landscaping and structures.
I will have a small yard, a small town, a wrong side of the tracks street and 2 mainlines around the room. Ill have a passenger train and a freight train running around the perimeter of the room and a switcher putzing around the yard and 2 or 3 industries. I would like to have a coal drag as well, Erie was BIG in coal world!
I think in 2 dimensions so hills and risers are a challenge for me but I will attempt these things. Strange, as I was on a submarine for 4 years and that is 3 dimensional.
 
This is my 4th layout and I have just learned on my last layout ( which is why it was taken down ) that less is more. Just the way you have described your wants list I can see that your ready to move on this and I like your thoughts. The scenery is actually easier than you may think as long as you plan ahead for it especially if you want rivers and canyons.Even though you have a flat benchwork it doesn't mean you can have rivers canyons and bridges but you have to keep in mind either you have to cut out of the plywood for a river so its lower than the grade or raise the grade. Same as for the rail line , you have to raise one or the other to keep it natural and have the scenery work with you and not against you.


Personally speaking and I will mention this only once and would make these recommendations to others who are thinking about a layout with wanting spectacular scenery as it is your layout and it will be your valuable time you spend working it.
For as far as you have gone in your construction and unless your plywood is glued down I would pull the plywood off and change the benchwork to open grid, once the plywood is removed you basicly now have open grid as long as you have enough crossmembers , use the plywood you pull off for the roadbed , get some 1x3's for risers , a box of 1.5 inch screws and your now on your way to a much more manageable layout that you won't be battling with.That flat top will become a real hindrance.
 
Thanks Lynn. The frame for the layout is made of all 1 x 3 KiwiPrime? select lumber, nice stuff. I have several lengths of SPAX screws that are also quite nice to work with. And my time is way far from being Valuable :D
What I don't have is plywood or any way of getting some here. The table is 1/2' wafer board an I hate it. The only flat product Menards (30 miles round trip) supplies in 2 x 8 sheets. They fit in my Nissan Sentra. Home Depot will rip plywood for you but that is a 90 mile round trip :(
I have plenty cross members, the wafer board is not glued, just minimally screwed to the frame. And the 1" foam is not glued but minimally screwed to the wafer board. Sounds strange but is solid enough. I could tear down the entire thing in less than 1 hour. So other than fighting the wafer board I am all set to put your suggestion into action!
I plan on setting up the Unitrack I have to see what I can accomplish in the area on a flat plain and then figuring out the vertical aspects. I am bad at software as well as having to physically visualize layouts without using my hands and moving the Unitrack around. Did that make any sense?
I will research open grid layout construction on you tube this week. Thanks again.
 
Lack barry said:
Thanks Lynn. The frame for the layout is made of all 1 x 3 KiwiPrime? select lumber, nice stuff. I have several lengths of SPAX screws that are also quite nice to work with. And my time is way far from being Valuable :D
What I don't have is plywood or any way of getting some here. The table is 1/2' wafer board an I hate it. The only flat product Menards (30 miles round trip) supplies in 2 x 8 sheets. They fit in my Nissan Sentra. Home Depot will rip plywood for you but that is a 90 mile round trip :(
I have plenty cross members, the wafer board is not glued, just minimally screwed to the frame. And the 1" foam is not glued but minimally screwed to the wafer board. Sounds strange but is solid enough. I could tear down the entire thing in less than 1 hour. So other than fighting the wafer board I am all set to put your suggestion into action!
I plan on setting up the Unitrack I have to see what I can accomplish in the area on a flat plain and then figuring out the vertical aspects. I am bad at software as well as having to physically visualize layouts without using my hands and moving the Unitrack around. Did that make any sense?
I will research open grid layout construction on you tube this week. Thanks again.
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Check my thread (Michigan Central UNLIMITED) and the angled legs along the wall, 'Montana' turned me on to the design and it is working WELL! No unwanted foot bumps along those sections!

Menards has the MDF, I'm using 1/2 inch and finding it VERY nice! I got 4x8's but they sell 2x4 sheets of it also, it would make an excellent underlay for the foam and would fit in your vehicle. The MDF at hd was not quite the same, a bit 'cheaper' in make but more expensive than Menards. I dunno.
 
Even better is the 'MDO' it's a ply with a paper topping, VERY nice but VERY expensive! Also only saw it in 4x8, If I had had MONEY instead of money, I'd have gotten THAT!
 
Good work new guy. Lynn it has not been a good 2 weeks. We are contemplating moving in December and doing more layout work seems futile. There are 3 of us living together, 2 on SS and 1 working. The 1 working lost her job last week so that means my share of the bills went from 1/3 to 1/2 so that burns up my fun train money. Last month our car blew the low end of the motor and cost $1800 to fix and it's still not right. Long sob story short my railroad is way down on the list of things to spend money on. I have 1 loco, 13 40' boxcars and a couple hundred $$$ of track. I have a loop set up and can run a train but several of the cars need new wheels and couplers. I think I can squeeze out enough cash to get some Kadee wiskers, intermountain 33" wheel sets and a coupler height gauge. I will know more in a week or 2.
 
Lack,

Darn, sorry to hear what has been happening - that really hurts. Hopefully things sort themselves out soon so you can get back to the layout.
 
Thanks guys. I'm sure we will get thru this "Endeavor to Persevere" :D The main thing now is to be and keep being positive. Thanks again.
 
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