HO chain link fence

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BigE

Active Member
I got the stuff to make my own today - tull, 18gauge wire, etc.
I'm wanting to put some around some yard areas - sand and fuel spurs and the flood loader tower.
Probably around the engine maintenance lines and building once I get that built as well.

What would be good height of the fence.
What would be good for spacing between vertical posts.
Again, I'm in HO if that matters.
Thanks.
Eric.
 

wombat457

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Eric,

Spacing between post could be anywhere between 10' and 12'. The height would be some where around 10' I think.

Converted, that would be close to 3.5" for a 10' high fence and a little over 4" for a 12' high fence. 8' would be around 2.75"
 

Steve S

Member
Model Railroader did an article about prototype fences back in the '90s (IIRC). They had extensive drawings and dimensions for the various types of fences and gates, as well as thicknesses for the posts. One thing to keep in mind is that the corner and end posts are thicker than the vertical posts in between.

I did the test piece below based on that article.

fence.jpg


Steve S
 

BigE

Active Member
Eric,

Spacing between post could be anywhere between 10' and 12'. The height would be some where around 10' I think.

Converted, that would be close to 3.5" for a 10' high fence and a little over 4" for a 12' high fence. 8' would be around 2.75"
Better check your math Tony. 10' would be around 1.38" in scale. Which looks about right sitting next to my ES44 and SD40 boys.
10' high looked about right to me.
 

BigE

Active Member
Model Railroader did an article about prototype fences back in the '90s (IIRC). They had extensive drawings and dimensions for the various types of fences and gates, as well as thicknesses for the posts. One thing to keep in mind is that the corner and end posts are thicker than the vertical posts in between.

I did the test piece below based on that article.

fence.jpg


Steve S
Glad you posted that pic with gate. I meant to ask about that as well.
I was thinking to put gates where the tracks come into the fenced in area.

Now that you mentioned thicker corner posts, shouldn't there be diagonals on the corners as well?
E.
 

Steve S

Member
Yeah, I should have had a diagonal. I think those are even thinner than the others.

For the gate, I soldered a piece of brass tubing to the end post. The gate post sits in it and swings freely.

I have some other experiments that I tried that I'll photograph.

I also can't remember the issue of MR that it was in, but if you find someone with the DVD collection, maybe they can do a search for you.

Also, I think I made it to the dimensions in the article. It's about 7.5 feet tall and the spacing between posts is a little more than 9 feet.

Steve
 
Last edited by a moderator:

BigE

Active Member
Yeah, I should have had a diagonal. I think those are even thinner than the others.

For the gate, I soldered a piece of brass tubing to the end post. The gate post sits in it and swings freely.

I have some other experiments that I tried that I'll photograph.

I also can't remember the issue of MR that it was in, but if you find someone with the DVD collection, maybe they can do a search for you.

Also, I think I made it to the dimensions in the article. It's about 7.5 feet tall and the spacing between posts is a little more than 9 feet.

Steve
That would be timely article to have on hand right now.
I suppose I could send Kalmbach a message about it and ask.
 

Steve S

Member
IIRC, the reason I didn't do the diagonal piece was that I was having trouble soldering three pieces together at a single point. If you solder two pieces together, and then try to add the third piece, you usually end up undoing the previous joint that you just did. I suppose a tiny dab of epoxy could be used for the diagonal piece after you've solder the other two. Note that in the pic below there are horizontal pieces at the end. I'm not sure how they decide to use horizontal or diagonal braces.

Here's a couple of more pieces I did just for fun. The gate in my hand hangs from a brass I-beam. I put a small piece of tubing at the top of each end post and used a razor saw to cut a notch in the top. I placed the I-beam in place and then pinched the 'tabs' of the tubing inward to hold it onto the beam. It wasn't exactly smooth sliding, but it allowed for adjusting the position.

I used tiny jewelers' files to clean up the solder joints. You may need to get a fine tip for your soldering iron to make such small joints.

gate_zpsphpp3loe.png



Steve S
 

wombat457

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Eric,

Sorry about that - I worked it out in cm's not inches and then automatically used inches when I posted. I should have said 3.5 cm, that equates to about 1.37".

Steve,

Excellent job on the fence ... and your soldering skills are obviously first class.
 

BigE

Active Member
Eric,

Sorry about that - I worked it out in cm's not inches and then automatically used inches when I posted. I should have said 3.5 cm, that equates to about 1.37".

Steve,

Excellent job on the fence ... and your soldering skills are obviously first class.
No worries Mate. I should have thought about that, you being Aussie and all. :D

Ditto on Steve's awesome soldering work!!!
I think I'm pretty good already but his work leaves me something to strive for.
I'll have plenty of practice today in fact.

Did you ever try an SD40 beast on your 18" curves? I've never had any troubles.
Since you first got to know me last Dec., I've since acquired an ES44AC and FP45 (both C-C) and they are also just fine here.

E
 

wombat457

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Eric,

Nope, BUT I do have 2 ES44AC's for my N Scale layout. Bear in mind, they are all I have for it.
 

BigE

Active Member
Here is the results of my first go with building fencing.
I made a big long stretch 18" total. Horizontal spacing was 1 3/8" which is close to 15'.
It came out pretty good for a first go having never seen this done much less done it myself.

PA260030_1.jpgPA260030.jpgPA260029_1.jpg~
 

Attachments

Rico

BN Modeller
Looking good Eric!
I did chain link years back, it came in 4, 6, 8, and 10 foot heights and posts were spaced 8 to 10 feet apart depending on height. End, gate, and corner posts are larger than line posts. This is a project I'll be tackeling sometime soon.
Steve I like your gates! You got the diagonals correct, and extra braces varied depending again on height and soil conditions.
 

railBuilderDhd

Active Member
I recall seeing some tulle at Wal-Mart that was a silver color so you didn't even need to paint it. was nice. I picked up a large piece for my fence needs then but that was a few years ago. I'm sure if they don't still have it you'll find it someplace.
Dave
 

wombat457

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Eric,

Looking good. I have to admit that my first attempt at a chain link fence was a disaster, mainly with trying to solder everything together.
 

railBuilderDhd

Active Member
I used styrene for my fence posts but I'm sure the metal would be better support. Next time I make my fence I will look into using the metal and not styrene.
 

new guy

Active Member
But you don't have to screw around with soldering stuff together.


I'd just end up soldering my fingers together! I'll try wire and glue!

I got the gear but I have not gotten the gumption up yet to even TRY soldering stuff!

I like coffee TOO much for the steady hand required!
 

wombat457

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Styrene sounds like the way to go for me as well. Can you buy it THAT small in diameter though?
 

montanan

Whiskey Merchant
That's what I did was use some super glue. Built this about 20 years ago. The brass rod was a little large but was all I had on hand at the time.

IMAG0094.jpg
 




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