Gluing wood ties to rail


zoegraf

Craftsman at heart
I was looking forward to gluing ties to my turnouts this weekend, but my old Barges cement in the tube is too rubbery to use and I can't find this glue anymore. I read that some modellers use Pilobond, but I can't find that either.
Any recommendations out there for a good adhesive? What about Gorilla glue?
 
Tandy-Leather Factory in Surrey should have the barge cement. They are at 10608 King George Hwy. Number is 604-583-1681. You should also be able to order online. Walthers Goo should work as well. That stuff seems to stick to anything.
 
Gluing ties

I was looking forward to gluing ties to my turnouts this weekend, but my old Barges cement in the tube is too rubbery to use and I can't find this glue anymore. I read that some modellers use Pilobond, but I can't find that either.
Any recommendations out there for a good adhesive? What about Gorilla glue?

Pliobond is available from Fast Tracks in Canada. They also sell ties.
Wayne
 
Gluing Ties

would crazy glue, Cyanoacrylate work?

or does is set too fast?

My long experience with CA says a big no. Attaching materials with unlike density with CA is not possible. Wood to steel, plastic to wood etc is ust not good. Fast Tracks suggests Pliobond because its a contact cement hence the wood and metal rails stay attached if you follow directions and are not water soluble. Gooo by Walthers is a contact cement. Just follow directions on the tube, it works.
Wayne
 
I've glued many a rail to bridges that I couldn't spike the rails to. Usually I use Goo.

There are two schools of thought on how to do this. This is the way I do it, I spread some goo on the bottom of the rail, and place the rail down in place using 3-point gauges to keep in gauge. Then I take a large hot soldering iron, and heat the rail for a few seconds. It stays in place.

Second is to spread a good amount on the rail, and then stick it down, and immediately pull it back up until almost dry, then replace and hold in gauge with the 3-point gauges. It will then glue the rail to the ties almost immediately.
 
Tandy-Leather Factory in Surrey should have the barge cement. They are at 10608 King George Hwy. Number is 604-583-1681. You should also be able to order online. Walthers Goo should work as well. That stuff seems to stick to anything.


Thank you for the info and details.
 
I've glued many a rail to bridges that I couldn't spike the rails to. Usually I use Goo.

There are two schools of thought on how to do this. This is the way I do it, I spread some goo on the bottom of the rail, and place the rail down in place using 3-point gauges to keep in gauge. Then I take a large hot soldering iron, and heat the rail for a few seconds. It stays in place.

Second is to spread a good amount on the rail, and then stick it down, and immediately pull it back up until almost dry, then replace and hold in gauge with the 3-point gauges. It will then glue the rail to the ties almost immediately.

I like the sound of this method you use. Does the heat make the Goo bond instantly?
 
Fast Tracks also has a video showing how to use pliobond as Cary described.
http://www.handlaidtrack.com/online-videos-a/164.htm

I've used this method to glue rails onto a turn-table ties. Worked very well.
Goo and other contact cements would also work using this method.

And if you want scale spikes check out the Proto87 Store.
http://www.proto87.com/

Thanks for the links. I'm now going to look up Goo on the net to see what it looks like and where I can buy it.
 
I like the sound of this method you use. Does the heat make the Goo bond instantly?

It causes the solvents and the retarder agents (to slow down the solvent evaporation), to evaporate almost immediately, thus allowing the glue to form those super strong bonds generally associated with contact type cements. Because the glue has a "rubber" base in it, the glue also allows for the normal expansion and contraction to occur without losing strength.

You do have to be careful with contact cements. My Dad was a general carpenter, and growing up I spent a lot of my summers, helping him. One time we were installing a large sheet of Formica on a large counter in a store. Normally, after the glue is applied, you use wooden spacers of plywood, or some other material to keep the glued parts separated, until you wanted the bond. Unknown to us, one of the spacers slipped out of position and one little area of the Formica touched the counter. Too late, it was hard in place. We loss that piece of Formica, and part of the counter cause we couldn't adjust the position, and the glue was that good!
 
When I worked in a cabinetmaking shop we used lacquer thinner to dissolve the contact cement and save the Formica when there was an accidental bond.
 
That day Larry, we didn't have access to any lacquer thinner. I was supposed to put it in my Dad's truck, but forgot. That sheet and the piece of plywood for the counter, came outta my check that week, and the next.

Back in those days, plywood was cheap, but the Formica wasn't!
 



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