For you N Scaler's out there

[Trucklover]

Hi guys,

i got 2 of the Walthers Cornerstone Paper Plants in a couple weeks ago. Some of you may know that this kit was out of stock at Walthers for some time now, and is now back in stock. Well one of the kits was already sold and my buddy was waiting for it for some time now lol. This left me with the 2nd Paper Plant kit to build. Larry (Brakie) had told me a while back he wanted the kit and also wanted me to build it for him. Were still not sure if hes going to get the kit or not, i think he has some other stuff in mind. But Larry, if your reading this, i can build you another Paper Plant kit if you want it OR you can take this one, but this one will be a bit more then i quoted you as this one took a little longer because i did the brick mortar joints lol

This kit was built pretty much stock, just painted the mortar joints in the main brick building. I also added some more roof details that came with the kit, Walthers gives you extra vents, so i figured well why not use them all? I also build a very small tank and added it next to the 3 vertical tanks up on the roof. Then added some decals, 2 "Superior Paper Main Mill" signs on the Mail Mill Structure, "Shipping", "Receiving", and "Office" signs on the Mail Mill Structure by the loading docks, and 3 "Superior Paper Kraft Mill" signs on the Kraft Mill Building. If the decals look shinny, thats cuz they were still wet when i took the pics. I had just applied them and brushed a layer of Micro-Sol on them. As soon as there completely dry (probably wait till tomorrow morning) ill spray a layer of clear flat on them that will dull them right up.

Here are the pics, comments, questions, suggestions always welcome

 

[UP2CSX]

Josh, that sure is a nice looking model for N scale. The details seem to get better in that scale all the time. I've got to tell you, though, I don't like the brick. There's way too much mortar in some places and none in others. Having lighter and darker areas is typical for brick but those blotchy areas just don't make it. How did you do the mortar lines? Is there any easy way you can remove them and start over. If so, I'd give it another try. I use white liquid shoe polish with an applicator top. "Paint" the brick with the applicator and then immediately go over it with a damp paper towel. That will remove most of the white from the face bricks but leave the white in the mortar lines. It looks like the plastic wall sections didn't have consistently deep mortar lines so that's why you got such poor coverage in some areas. If that's the case, I'd bite bullet and spray over it with the same color as the kraft mill section and then follow up with a thin alcohol/india ink wash. That will still give some black mortar detail but it won't look as weird as having big patches of red brick with no mortar.

Just to further irritate you, those capstone sections at the top of the wall were usually made of concrete and shouldn't be red. If you have one of the Floquil Aged Concrete paint pens, you can add that detail easily and quickly.

Of course, it's your model, so take my advice for what you think it's worth...or what you paid for it.

 

[Trucklover]

Hey Jim, no worries, your not irritating me Just trying to help, and thats what i love about this forum and the Gauge, always very helpful and offering tips and tricks of how i could improve

Josh, that sure is a nice looking model for N scale. The details seem to get better in that scale all the time. I've got to tell you, though, I don't like the brick. There's way too much mortar in some places and none in others. Having lighter and darker areas is typical for brick but those blotchy areas just don't make it. How did you do the mortar lines? Is there any easy way you can remove them and start over. If so, I'd give it another try. I use white liquid shoe polish with an applicator top. "Paint" the brick with the applicator and then immediately go over it with a damp paper towel. That will remove most of the white from the face bricks but leave the white in the mortar lines. It looks like the plastic wall sections didn't have consistently deep mortar lines so that's why you got such poor coverage in some areas. If that's the case, I'd bite bullet and spray over it with the same color as the kraft mill section and then follow up with a thin alcohol/india ink wash. That will still give some black mortar detail but it won't look as weird as having big patches of red brick with no mortar.

I had a similar comment about the mortar joints over on the gauge about the mortar joints being too bold. The mortar joints do look a little bad in the pics, but they dont look so harsh and bold up close from normal viewing, the camera catches everything and really brings the flaws out lol.

I do think i need to thin the paint a little bit next time though, and i will also try doing the vertical wiping instead of the horizontal. I was doing it vertical at first, but it was leaving alot of paint behind, so thats when i switched to horizontal wiping. But again, i think if i thin the paint some next time it will be easier to wipe away.

Im also going to get some of that white shoe polish stuff, where can i pick that stuff up the cheapest you know? I usually see it at like Target or the Grocery store for like $10.00. I think the Shoe Polish stuff will be much better and if it works like you described, then it will be a lot easier.

I cant re-do the mortar lines on the Main Mill, i already applied decals and sprayed a layer of clear flat finish. Plus its already packed in a box for sale lol. Its funny, i dont see alot of buildings that have bold and blotchy mortar joints between the bricks, but i have seen them before. I also have seen the patches that have significantly less mortar in the joints like in the spots on my Main Mill, so that is why i left the rather empty mortar joint sots, cuz ive seen it in real life.

Just to further irritate you, those capstone sections at the top of the wall were usually made of concrete and shouldn't be red. If you have one of the Floquil Aged Concrete paint pens, you can add that detail easily and quickly.

That is something i had thought about doing, but didnt. Ill do it on the next one for sure though. Ill be building at least 2 more of these kits in the near future, one will be another brick mortar joint wash, and another just plain old kit build withe some paint.

 

[UP2CSX]

Josh, getting white moratar lines on red brick is probably one of the toughest things to get right. I use Kiwi Liquid Shoe Whitener. You should be able to find it at any of the normal discount stores for around $7. It has a sponge applicator on the top. I dab it on a wall section with the applicator and then use a damp rag to spread it, always horizontally. Vertically will contribute to the those blotchy sections because you'll take off too much of the whitener. I wait for about 30 seconds and then make another pass with a clean damp rag. That will usually remove almost all the whitener from the face brick and leave a pretty good looking mortar line. Depending on how weathered I want the building to look, I'd still do an india ink wash, since white mortar doesn't stay white long in an industrial environment. I've tried lots of other methods and this one seems to be the most consistent although I still find some wall section where the mortar lines just aren't deep enough and I can never get it right. In that case, I sparay it a buff color and use the india ink wash rather than leave that blotchy look. This is kind of a poor picture when my layout was still under construction but you can see how the technique came out on the brick wall with the guy leaning up against the building and the courthouse on the left, which had a lighter application of whitener :

Those Floquil paint pens a great for getting details like those capstones and window sills.

In looking at your pictures again, I think part of your problem with the brick mill section was that weird brick pattern, with the bricks almost looking like they were laid with the holes facing outward and then they added some kind of triangular piece on top of each course. I've never seen a real brick building that looked like that and it doesn't make any sense from a construction or engineering aspect. I think I'd paint the next two models and not try to leave a red brick look. I don't think it will ever look quite right.

 

[Trucklover]

Jim, thanks for the suggestions, ill be referring to this thread on the next one i build

The structure is now up on ebay if anyone is interested...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350267743614