If you are laying unballasted yard tracks or mainline "house" or set-out tracks, then fastening track directly to a hardwood (or foam) top might be ok, but if you are laying any sort of mainline tracks (or sidings) then you will want allow for a ballast profile, so using a cork roadbed (or layers of cardboard or mat-board) is in order. I've used all of these, and they all have their place.
That said, we'll assume the former. Just fasten the track [flex or sectional track, either one] down with a centerline bead of craft-type white glue (Elmers-type) and hold it in proper alignment using simple office pushpins until the glue dries. Weight it down between the pins if you have any worries about it not-lying-flat or if you need vertical curves, which will usually mean gluing tracks designed to sit lower than other nearby or adjacent tracks and their slope transitions (raising the track up gradually, or dropping it down--adding increasing layers of cardboard is one way).
Brush off any crumbs (particularly cork-type crumbs), sawdust, etc. before gluing the track down. Don't forget to clean the bottom of the ties too, not just the tabletop/cork.
The advantage of "functional adhesive" type white glue* is that you can remove or realign it simply be soaking it with water--typically a damp towel laid on top for a few hours will do the job. You could also use a furniture type glue, but make certain it can be softened again with water to facilitate removal--make sure the bond isn't permanent.
[*More details here:
https://glueaid.com/is-elmers-glue-waterproof/]
This is my standard go-to method, and you can use it as well to glue down cork roadbed first, although it will require a lot more water--you will need to saturate or soak through the cork--if you want to move it.
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I don't see any advantage to using double stick tapes, but if you still want to try that for some reason, this is one place to get it:
The industry standard tape for installing slip-on rubber, synthetic or oversized putter grips
www.golfworks.com
The description says "activated with solvent," but what that really means is "activated to maximum tackiness (which lasts only for a minute or two) with solvent." You see some solvents there too, and you'll want one that is orange based...but the tapes stick just fine without it provided to remove the protective plastic layer shortly before sticking something down with it.
That said, I strongly suggest the white glue method first.