westtexjohn
Well-Known Member
I have been keeping up as I have a SW-7 cow/calf project I stuck back in a box about two years ago. I really need to finish it up.
EMD TR5A
- Thread starter flyboy2610
- Start date
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
I got the yellow on. I thinned the Badger ModelFlex paint with a few drops of Vallejo Flow Improver. I also added a few drops of retarder and shot it at 30 psi. It went on pretty well, but I still had some tip dry to contend with.
The first place I painted was the joint between the hood and walkway. I find it always help to do corners and angles first. There's less chance of excess paint building up that way. I did not mask anything when I put down the yellow. I'll mask for the gray, though. It can be hard to get masking to match up perfectly when doing two or more colors. I find if I do the lighter color and "overspray" it, when I mask for the darker color all surfaces are covered with paint. I won't have any spots of white primer showing up this way.
I won't be able to get back to the gray for a couple of days, so this should be thoroughly cured by the time I get around to it.
The shade isn't exactly the same as the factory Athearn paint, but that doesn't bother me. I saw a picture once of 4 or 5 UP locomotives that were all fresh out of the paint shop, and no two had exactly the same shade of yellow! I thought I had saved that pic, but I can't find it now.
I think I'll do the red stripes on the hood and cab with decals, and the sill strip with paint.
The first place I painted was the joint between the hood and walkway. I find it always help to do corners and angles first. There's less chance of excess paint building up that way. I did not mask anything when I put down the yellow. I'll mask for the gray, though. It can be hard to get masking to match up perfectly when doing two or more colors. I find if I do the lighter color and "overspray" it, when I mask for the darker color all surfaces are covered with paint. I won't have any spots of white primer showing up this way.
I won't be able to get back to the gray for a couple of days, so this should be thoroughly cured by the time I get around to it.
The shade isn't exactly the same as the factory Athearn paint, but that doesn't bother me. I saw a picture once of 4 or 5 UP locomotives that were all fresh out of the paint shop, and no two had exactly the same shade of yellow! I thought I had saved that pic, but I can't find it now.
I think I'll do the red stripes on the hood and cab with decals, and the sill strip with paint.
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
1: Amen!
2: Amen!
3: Amen!
Diaphragm compressors are noisy! Buy a piston powered compressor, they are MUCH quieter!
Rex seems to think highly of this airbrush:
You can also use empty soda (or beer) cans to practice on. Empty plastic bottles work well, too.
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
No time like the present time! Of course, you're expected to start a topic thread on your build.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
With foto's of course.
westtexjohn
Well-Known Member
It seems bench work is taking top priority now. I'll post some photos of that in a bit.
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
I got the Harbor Mist Gray applied. I have some touch up to do, but touch up is always to be expected when (re-)painting a model. I wouldn't have quite so much to do, though, if I had remembered to use my Exacto knife, with a new blade, and gently cut the paint film in the 90 degree corners!
Oh, well. Once the decals and weathering are finished, the boo-boos won't be too noticeable.
This is the worst side.
The other side.
I used Tamiya masking tape, 6mm, 10mm, and 18mm. The 18mm width was perfect for masking the sides of the hood and around the radiator! It made the separation line almost exactly where I wanted it to be! There will be a red stripe along the top of the hood doors at the junction of the yellow and gray, so that will hide any 'non-comformities' that may lurking there.
I ordered some decals from Microscale, they are on the postal truck for delivery today! I'll get the touch ups done, let the paint dry for a couple of hours, then give the models a gloss coat in preparation for decals. The gloss will dry overnight, and I'll put the decals on tomorrow.
It's coming together!
Oh, well. Once the decals and weathering are finished, the boo-boos won't be too noticeable.
This is the worst side.
The other side.
I used Tamiya masking tape, 6mm, 10mm, and 18mm. The 18mm width was perfect for masking the sides of the hood and around the radiator! It made the separation line almost exactly where I wanted it to be! There will be a red stripe along the top of the hood doors at the junction of the yellow and gray, so that will hide any 'non-comformities' that may lurking there.
I ordered some decals from Microscale, they are on the postal truck for delivery today! I'll get the touch ups done, let the paint dry for a couple of hours, then give the models a gloss coat in preparation for decals. The gloss will dry overnight, and I'll put the decals on tomorrow.
It's coming together!
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
Started on the decals. My Microscale order came in yesterday, so I have all that I need. The brown cutting mat is used only for decals. I consider the reverse tweezers an absolute must for this!
I still need to do the red hood stripe, and this side is done.
I still need to do the red hood stripe, and this side is done.
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
I believe it stands for Diesel Switcher. If someone knows otherwise, please let me know.
UP initially gave the TR units the DS designation early in their careers, but they were removed in February and March of 1953. As my layout is 'set' in 1957, it's not prototypically correct for the DS to be there, but I like it. As Pilate told the Jewish leaders "What I have written stays written."
UP also never had TR4's, which were based on SW7's, which is what these models actually are. But I'm exercising modeler's license here. Not to mention replicating the road number Athearn put on them.
UP initially gave the TR units the DS designation early in their careers, but they were removed in February and March of 1953. As my layout is 'set' in 1957, it's not prototypically correct for the DS to be there, but I like it. As Pilate told the Jewish leaders "What I have written stays written."
UP also never had TR4's, which were based on SW7's, which is what these models actually are. But I'm exercising modeler's license here. Not to mention replicating the road number Athearn put on them.
westtexjohn
Well-Known Member
The "DS" designation did in fact stand for diesel switcher.I believe it stands for Diesel Switcher. If someone knows otherwise, please let me know.
UP initially gave the TR units the DS designation early in their careers, but they were removed in February and March of 1953. As my layout is 'set' in 1957, it's not prototypically correct for the DS to be there, but I like it. As Pilate told the Jewish leaders "What I have written stays written."
UP also never had TR4's, which were based on SW7's, which is what these models actually are. But I'm exercising modeler's license here. Not to mention replicating the road number Athearn put on them.
Here is a little more info...........
TR5 Transfer units
Concurrent with normal end-cab switcher production, EMD also produced a "Transfer", or "TR", version, with a normal end-cab switcher as a lead unit, or "Cow", attached to a cabless booster, or "Calf", making a heavy switching locomotive with double the horsepower. The matching Transfer locomotive for EMD's NW2 switcher was the TR2, with the SW7 version being the TR4 and the SW9 contemporary being the TR5. Union Pacific chose not to order either the TR2 or the TR4 versions, possibly because of the high numbers of 2-8-0s and other small steam locomotives still in service on the railroad during the late 1940s. However, by the time 1950 rolled around, and the SW9 was in production, UP found itself in need of Diesel version of a non-road service, heavy switcher.
UP 1870-1877 and 1870B-1877B (eight A-units and eight B-units) were built in September and October 1951 (between UP's SW7 and SW9 orders) and were assigned EMD order numbers 6284-A and 6284-B. According to a news item in a mid-November 1951 issue of Railway Age, UP's eight TR5s were to be initially assigned to southern California. The news item stated that six of the eight units were specifically for heavy switching in the San Bernardino yards, and the other two were for helper service on the 2.2 percent grade Cima Hill, operating out of Kelso. The use of the TR5s on these helper grades allowed UP to re-assign the 1947-built Fairbanks-Morse H20-44s to the Northwestern District. The new yard at Hinkle, Oregon had just gone into service and the F-Ms were needed to support the increased use of Diesels on the two divisions, the Oregon and Idaho, that make up the Northwestern District.
All of the TR5 sets were delivered in UP's yellow and gray, with "D.S." prefix on their road numbers. Seven of the eight TR5 sets were operating on the South-Central District (UP 1876 and 1876B were not) when their "D.S." road number prefixes were removed in February and March 1953.
westtexjohn
Well-Known Member
Here is a couple of photos.....sorry, no "calf" units.
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
Utahrails.net is a fantastic source of info, isn't it?
I could spend hours on that site. But then I'd get even less done than I do now!
I could spend hours on that site. But then I'd get even less done than I do now!
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
The decals are on, and I've accented the grills, vents, and a couple of the hatches.
For accenting the grills and vents I decided to try something new: Tamiya Panel Line Accent, black color.
https://www.hobbytown.com/tamiya-panel-line-accent-color-black-40ml-tam87131/p577048
It says out of stock at the Lincoln north store. They used to have one. I wonder what could have happened to it?
It comes in several colors. Mike Fifer inspired me to give it a try.
I'd been using India ink diluted with 91% IPA, and it works pretty well. I just like to try new products from time to time.
Enough babbling. On to the pics!
Engineer side:
This is how they will be oriented in operation.
Brakeman side:
Grille end:
Other end:
The hood stripe is a decal from MicroScale set #91105. The sill stripe I put on with a micro brush. It's Apple Barrel red craft paint with a drop of black. Once the decals and stripes were on, I gave the models 2 coats of flat clear to seal them and hide the decal edges. To fade them, I used gray Master's Touch drawing pastels from Hobby Lobby. I use a cheese grater from the dollar store to turn the pastel stick into powder. Using a 1/2" wide stiff bristle brush I apply the powder liberally, and seal it with a coat of flat clear. It took 2 applications to achieve the effect I was after: faded, but not too faded. These would have only been about 6 years old at the time my layout is set.
I had to piece the road numbers together, and that was a bit fiddly, but I got it done.
Next up is to mount the shell to the frame and add some dirt and grime to the bottom.
I'm going to use my new toy for that:
I've read good reviews about this airbrush, and the YouTube reviews I've watched have been pretty positive, so I decided to go ahead and spring for it. My wife has the Amazon account, so I had her order it for me, using the debit card from my personal account.
It comes in red or black. I got the red one. I'll definitely post the results.
Gotta go run a few errands, so I'll get back to this later this afternoon.
For accenting the grills and vents I decided to try something new: Tamiya Panel Line Accent, black color.
https://www.hobbytown.com/tamiya-panel-line-accent-color-black-40ml-tam87131/p577048
It says out of stock at the Lincoln north store. They used to have one. I wonder what could have happened to it?
It comes in several colors. Mike Fifer inspired me to give it a try.
I'd been using India ink diluted with 91% IPA, and it works pretty well. I just like to try new products from time to time.
Enough babbling. On to the pics!
Engineer side:
This is how they will be oriented in operation.
Brakeman side:
Grille end:
Other end:
The hood stripe is a decal from MicroScale set #91105. The sill stripe I put on with a micro brush. It's Apple Barrel red craft paint with a drop of black. Once the decals and stripes were on, I gave the models 2 coats of flat clear to seal them and hide the decal edges. To fade them, I used gray Master's Touch drawing pastels from Hobby Lobby. I use a cheese grater from the dollar store to turn the pastel stick into powder. Using a 1/2" wide stiff bristle brush I apply the powder liberally, and seal it with a coat of flat clear. It took 2 applications to achieve the effect I was after: faded, but not too faded. These would have only been about 6 years old at the time my layout is set.
I had to piece the road numbers together, and that was a bit fiddly, but I got it done.
Next up is to mount the shell to the frame and add some dirt and grime to the bottom.
I'm going to use my new toy for that:
I've read good reviews about this airbrush, and the YouTube reviews I've watched have been pretty positive, so I decided to go ahead and spring for it. My wife has the Amazon account, so I had her order it for me, using the debit card from my personal account.
It comes in red or black. I got the red one. I'll definitely post the results.
Gotta go run a few errands, so I'll get back to this later this afternoon.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Looks good, nice work on the Loco's, I'll be interested in how you get on with your new airbrush too.The decals are on, and I've accented the grills, vents, and a couple of the hatches.
For accenting the grills and vents I decided to try something new: Tamiya Panel Line Accent, black color.
https://www.hobbytown.com/tamiya-panel-line-accent-color-black-40ml-tam87131/p577048
It says out of stock at the Lincoln north store. They used to have one. I wonder what could have happened to it?
It comes in several colors. Mike Fifer inspired me to give it a try.
I'd been using India ink diluted with 91% IPA, and it works pretty well. I just like to try new products from time to time.
Enough babbling. On to the pics!
Engineer side:
View attachment 169099
This is how they will be oriented in operation.
Brakeman side:
View attachment 169100
Grille end:
View attachment 169101
Other end:
View attachment 169102
The hood stripe is a decal from MicroScale set #91105. The sill stripe I put on with a micro brush. It's Apple Barrel red craft paint with a drop of black. Once the decals and stripes were on, I gave the models 2 coats of flat clear to seal them and hide the decal edges. To fade them, I used gray Master's Touch drawing pastels from Hobby Lobby. I use a cheese grater from the dollar store to turn the pastel stick into powder. Using a 1/2" wide stiff bristle brush I apply the powder liberally, and seal it with a coat of flat clear. It took 2 applications to achieve the effect I was after: faded, but not too faded. These would have only been about 6 years old at the time my layout is set.
I had to piece the road numbers together, and that was a bit fiddly, but I got it done.
Next up is to mount the shell to the frame and add some dirt and grime to the bottom.
I'm going to use my new toy for that:
View attachment 169106
View attachment 169107
I've read good reviews about this airbrush, and the YouTube reviews I've watched have been pretty positive, so I decided to go ahead and spring for it. My wife has the Amazon account, so I had her order it for me, using the debit card from my personal account.
It comes in red or black. I got the red one. I'll definitely post the results.
Gotta go run a few errands, so I'll get back to this later this afternoon.
westtexjohn
Well-Known Member
Your project is looking good. Nice work.
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
Thanks, guys! I sort of played around with the airbrush, running water with food coloring in it. I find a good airbrush exercise is to use a piece of kitchen paper towel, the kind with designs on it, and try to color in the dots and lines. Using a dot-to-dot coloring page, the kind kids love to do, is another good exercise.
But since my youngest is 23-1/2, I don't think we have any of those left!
Of course, Walmart isn't that far away.....
But since my youngest is 23-1/2, I don't think we have any of those left!
Of course, Walmart isn't that far away.....
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
No, I'm just going to leave them open.
flyboy2610
Loveably weird
The painting and weathering is finished. I was going for a look that said "used, but not abused". As I said, these would have been only 6 years old at the time my layout is set, and UP generally took pretty good care of its equipment, especially when "new". I wanted to achieve a dusty, dirty, but cared for look. I think I got it.
I didn't have any steel color paint, but I had some aluminum, so that's what I used on the stacks. If you don't tell, I won't tell. I gave the inside of the headlight housings a coat of metallic silver. That should help the headlight shine better.
The air tanks got a coat of grimy black acrylic. Then I assembled the trucks, except for the wheels, and installed everything on the frames. I gave all 4 sides of both units a pass of grimy black, did the underside of the trucks as well. Next I gave the lower edges of the trucks, shell and frame a bit of earth color.
I'm guessing the fuel tank filler is located behind the air tank towards the grille, because most of the pictures I have have an oily streak down the air tank right there. Some gloss black dry-brushed onto the tank did the trick. I have the bell for the cow, and I thought I had a horn but I can't find it now. I'll install those when the re-motor is complete.
I placed an order with Streamlined Backshop (http://www.sbs4dcc.com/home.html) for a speaker with cab roof enclosure and an electrical connector to run from the cow to the calf. The connector will be for the light. Checking my email, I see that SBS sent me a shipping notice and tracking number. Should have the parts by next weekend.
I guess re-motoring the cow is the next item on the list.
I didn't have any steel color paint, but I had some aluminum, so that's what I used on the stacks. If you don't tell, I won't tell. I gave the inside of the headlight housings a coat of metallic silver. That should help the headlight shine better.
The air tanks got a coat of grimy black acrylic. Then I assembled the trucks, except for the wheels, and installed everything on the frames. I gave all 4 sides of both units a pass of grimy black, did the underside of the trucks as well. Next I gave the lower edges of the trucks, shell and frame a bit of earth color.
I'm guessing the fuel tank filler is located behind the air tank towards the grille, because most of the pictures I have have an oily streak down the air tank right there. Some gloss black dry-brushed onto the tank did the trick. I have the bell for the cow, and I thought I had a horn but I can't find it now. I'll install those when the re-motor is complete.
I placed an order with Streamlined Backshop (http://www.sbs4dcc.com/home.html) for a speaker with cab roof enclosure and an electrical connector to run from the cow to the calf. The connector will be for the light. Checking my email, I see that SBS sent me a shipping notice and tracking number. Should have the parts by next weekend.
I guess re-motoring the cow is the next item on the list.
