E-Z TRACK for entire layout?


Hutch

Well-Known Member
Anyone do this? I really like the stuff and don't care much for being prototypical. I have a million miles of flex and other pieces of track, tons of switches/turnouts. Mix of brass and nickel. Just thinking out loud. I may sell it and get E-Z TRACK. EZ to change designs and I'm constantly changing my mind.

 
Lots of folks have used it in the past. And a lot of them eventually switched over to Kato Unitrack. More track variety, and the turnouts end up being better quality, from what I've heard. I've tried both brands in the past (N-scale), and I have to agree.

If you want track with a built-in plastic roadbed, Unitrack would be a better choice, in my opinion. Especially If you change your layout more often than you change your underwear. It's actually built for that kind of use. E-Z track probably won't stand up near as well over the long haul. ;)
 
Lots of folks have used it in the past. And a lot of them eventually switched over to Kato Unitrack. More track variety, and the turnouts end up being better quality, from what I've heard. I've tried both brands in the past (N-scale), and I have to agree.

If you want track with a built-in plastic roadbed, Unitrack would be a better choice, in my opinion. Especially If you change your layout more often than you change your underwear. It's actually built for that kind of use. E-Z track probably won't stand up near as well over the long haul. ;)
Thanks, I'll consider that if i decide to go this way.
 
I think you should do what your heart tells you to do. If you can afford to do it, and no longer have much yen for doing what it takes to make flex look decent (this is subjective), then go ahead an have fun putting EZ-Track or Unitrak together. My first layout was that way, and I had a blast. However, I learned what flex can offer in the way of super-elevation and for eased curves in both planes. I had to evolve, and I was rewarded for the effort. But, and this is key, I was still having fun. It was an interesting and necessary step. Heck, I even added splined roadbed on that second layout. I went all in. Third layout, it was a substantial helix. Not in loops, but in diameter; it was over six feet.

We should each make it a priority to keep our hobbies fun and evolutionary to the extent that it doesn't become a chore or an obligation. Finding the spark for you might mean a modest foray into those types of track. You can always add to it if you find it's going well and you want even more.
 
I have to agree with @Mixed Freight - steer clear of EZ-Trak and definitely go with Kato Uni Trak if you want to move away from flex or convention sectional track.

At the end of the day it is your decision which of the two you go with. EZ-Trak is possibly a bit cheaper (in all respects) but I think you'll find Kato Uni Trak far better quality with better options. That being said, I have to agree with Crandell (@Selector) my first layout, an 8' X 4' (basically) HO was built using EZ Trak. I then joined these forums and discover Flex Track ... the EZ Trak lasted about two weeks before tearing it up and buiolding myself a Flex Track layout and have never looked back ;)
 
my first layout was all EZ track, 4 x 8 with a passing siding and a couple spurs. As I recall, there were one or two turnouts where I had to make a little wooden shim to keep the train from derailing, was easy to do and worked. Otherwise, no problems with the track.

My "big" third layout was a mixture of several types of track, new and used. I used EZ track turnouts in several places where I wanted remote switching, and that worked well. I had no problem with using several types of track on the layout.

I ballasted my EZ track. That first layout I mentioned the track was fastened to the plywood and I was able to sell it when we moved. I think I used silicone caulk to adhere the track to the plywood. I could store the layout on its side when not in use. It was a smart use of time and money.
 
The Bachmann EZ-Track is pretty good. Their turnouts have a bad reputation. I had a couple, and one of them never worked well at all. The other one seemed to be fine. I never fiddled with them. By the time I was ready to build a layout, I had decided to use Peco turnouts with Atlas Flex track.

If I was going to commit to a manufacturer of N scale plastic roadbed, I would choose Kato for the reasons already stated above. Their track, turnouts, everything just seems to be simple, durable and reliable.

My only complaint about the Bachmann EZ-Track was that many of my pieces warped over time. I was using 20-some year old track, and the train looked like it was on a roller coaster (well, not that bad, but it was visible as the train sort of hopped along). This was mostly on the shorter straight pieces. The ends tended to curl up. It was stored in a box in an atic, so temperatures into teh 100 degree mark or perhaps hotter in teh summers, and down below freezing in the winters. I'm sure that had a lot to do with the warping, and I'm not sure any other brand would have survived in any better condition. I will say, that the track itself was fine. Even 20 year old track was clean enough to use without electrical conductivity issues.
 
Jeff, I had forgotten the plastic bases bending...usually upwards and forcing the rails into little bumps at the joints. EZ-Track makes 3' lengths, or did at one time. I have two of those that I use on my XMas layout. Laid flat, each rises at least a quarter-inch at each end. They are close to 20 years old now, but they have been like that since about year eight. Please, someone, tell us that Uni doesn't do that....?
 
Jeff, I had forgotten the plastic bases bending...usually upwards and forcing the rails into little bumps at the joints. EZ-Track makes 3' lengths, or did at one time. I have two of those that I use on my XMas layout. Laid flat, each rises at least a quarter-inch at each end. They are close to 20 years old now, but they have been like that since about year eight. Please, someone, tell us that Uni doesn't do that....?
Would screws or nails solve the problem or are they too stiff?
 
I doubt it, @Hutch .

It seemed to me like the bend was permanent, but I never tried to force it back straight. And the warp always had the ends bending upward, never in the opposite direction, so it had something to with either geometry or the fact that rail is embedded in the top... not sure what really caused the warp other than time and, most likely, temperature swings.
 
If you don't mind doing it, I think screws would work. They would have to be the kind with the mushroom head, flat nether surface, or you'd need washers. Regular wood screws with the conical profile would not work well IMO. You would need a lot of them, two at each junction of lengths.
 
Yes, there is always that risk, but the alternative is to have bumpity-bumps while you watch the trains. :p

What I had in mind is not so much doing this after the proverbial horse is going bumpity-bump, but before the horse leaves the station. Get new EZ-Track, and fasten it securely so that the warping can't take place.

Or, as many of us tend to suggest, don't get the EZ-Track. Get the Unitrak instead. Problem solved.
 
You could try laying the track face down, add weights each end then gently (and carefully) heat it using the other half's hair dryer (with their permission, of course)
 



Back
Top