videobruce
Tower Operator
DC is not dead. Dual throtttle: one internal, one walkaround in a single case
I had a home built dual cab throttle left over from my 1st layout 15 years ago that I was planning on reusing. That design was from a book that Peter Thorne wrote back in the early 90's and was outdated. After taking a 2nd look at this 'dated' design, I decided to gut this, mostly due to the use of very heavy, bulky and inefficient transformers. It brought new meaning the the term "brick".
I was aware of this design, but rejected it due to cost and the fact I already had a case with meters that I wanted to reuse;
http://thegmlenterprises.com/id18.html
So I did a search and found a guy in St Catherine's Ontario Canada (a 30 minute drive from where I live) that sells throttles. One a small hand held all in one and another a two piece walkaround. All you need for the walk around is a case (unless you don't want to bother placing in in one).
His site is here;
http://www3.sympatico.ca/kstapleton3/Index.html
His larger version is this;
http://www3.sympatico.ca/kstapleton3/821.HTM
Though, not listed, the cost for just the throttle is $45 without the handheld controller. I already had one that I wanted to reuse. You do have to supply a external power supply either AC or DC. I wanted to use a energy efficient switching supply. No more "bricks".
The rating of three amps is overly generous. Though it can supply this, I would not recommend going anything close to this if you are running full throttle for over 5 or 10 minutes due to the excessive heat the main component (a LM350) generates. Partly due to the small heat sink and what I consider the crowded circuit board used, after a 10 minute full throttle load test of only two amps, I measured a temperature of over 200 degrees on that heat sink! Way, way too high. In spite of what manufactures claim, even though electronics can run hot, there is no way anyone could ever convince me that is acceptable.
In reality, few guys will run full throttle for any extended period of time, but it should be known just how hot this can get.
Have said that, running 1.5 amp seems to be safe. Running two amps at a 50/50 duty cycle would be acceptable also. All of this is in open air, not in a closed case and no fan. After discovering the heat problem I have added a cooling fan and drilled additional holes in the base for air flow.
The power supply I used was from MPJA in Florida (It was $4 when I bought it. They have plenty of others for around $10);
http://www.mpja.com/19V-265A-DC-Desktop-Supply-Globtek/productinfo/18903+PS/
I did a few modifications to fit my needs as follows after discussing the problems with Ken on the phone. There is no provision for meters, either amp or voltage. I find this a disadvantage as I like metering and already had the meters on the case on the old supply;
1. I added taps for a amp and volt meter. The amp meter I placed in line between the external PS and his circuit broad since this didn't require cutting any traces on his board which I preferred not to do unless I had to. Ken stated the slight additional current that the board itself draws was not a concern. I proved this by measuring current before the board and after using a fixed load of four 12v light bulbs mounted in a test jig I had.
2. I tapped off of the input to the reverse relay for the 12volt track power feed for the volt meter. This way, since the meter was not a 12-0-12 volt scale, I didn't have to be concerned about reverse polarity. Measuring voltage with a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) produces fluctuating, inconsistent readings without a load due to the PWM used. Placing a load on the output solves this. When using analog panel meters, there is no problem even without a load.
3. I already had a dual brake provision. One for "service", the other for "emergency". I paralleled his design by adding the 2nd brake. I used variable 'pots' instead of fixed resisters (about $1.50 each) since I had no idea what resistance was needed.
If you wanted to get real 'fancy', you could use a 4 or 6 position rotary switch with either fixed or variable pots on each position to effectively duplicate a prototype locomotive brake with multiple positions. This could easily be added in the future, substituting the push button for a rotary switch. If you could find a 'level', it would really ad to the realism.
4. Note the standoffs for the boards, the front panel LED (being fed from only one of the PS's), the holes on the base for air flow, the cable ties securing those supplies and the rear mounted fan being supplied from the 2nd supply (terminals 3 & 5).
I had a home built dual cab throttle left over from my 1st layout 15 years ago that I was planning on reusing. That design was from a book that Peter Thorne wrote back in the early 90's and was outdated. After taking a 2nd look at this 'dated' design, I decided to gut this, mostly due to the use of very heavy, bulky and inefficient transformers. It brought new meaning the the term "brick".
I was aware of this design, but rejected it due to cost and the fact I already had a case with meters that I wanted to reuse;
http://thegmlenterprises.com/id18.html
So I did a search and found a guy in St Catherine's Ontario Canada (a 30 minute drive from where I live) that sells throttles. One a small hand held all in one and another a two piece walkaround. All you need for the walk around is a case (unless you don't want to bother placing in in one).
His site is here;
http://www3.sympatico.ca/kstapleton3/Index.html
His larger version is this;
http://www3.sympatico.ca/kstapleton3/821.HTM
Though, not listed, the cost for just the throttle is $45 without the handheld controller. I already had one that I wanted to reuse. You do have to supply a external power supply either AC or DC. I wanted to use a energy efficient switching supply. No more "bricks".
The rating of three amps is overly generous. Though it can supply this, I would not recommend going anything close to this if you are running full throttle for over 5 or 10 minutes due to the excessive heat the main component (a LM350) generates. Partly due to the small heat sink and what I consider the crowded circuit board used, after a 10 minute full throttle load test of only two amps, I measured a temperature of over 200 degrees on that heat sink! Way, way too high. In spite of what manufactures claim, even though electronics can run hot, there is no way anyone could ever convince me that is acceptable.
In reality, few guys will run full throttle for any extended period of time, but it should be known just how hot this can get.
Have said that, running 1.5 amp seems to be safe. Running two amps at a 50/50 duty cycle would be acceptable also. All of this is in open air, not in a closed case and no fan. After discovering the heat problem I have added a cooling fan and drilled additional holes in the base for air flow.
The power supply I used was from MPJA in Florida (It was $4 when I bought it. They have plenty of others for around $10);
http://www.mpja.com/19V-265A-DC-Desktop-Supply-Globtek/productinfo/18903+PS/
I did a few modifications to fit my needs as follows after discussing the problems with Ken on the phone. There is no provision for meters, either amp or voltage. I find this a disadvantage as I like metering and already had the meters on the case on the old supply;
1. I added taps for a amp and volt meter. The amp meter I placed in line between the external PS and his circuit broad since this didn't require cutting any traces on his board which I preferred not to do unless I had to. Ken stated the slight additional current that the board itself draws was not a concern. I proved this by measuring current before the board and after using a fixed load of four 12v light bulbs mounted in a test jig I had.
2. I tapped off of the input to the reverse relay for the 12volt track power feed for the volt meter. This way, since the meter was not a 12-0-12 volt scale, I didn't have to be concerned about reverse polarity. Measuring voltage with a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) produces fluctuating, inconsistent readings without a load due to the PWM used. Placing a load on the output solves this. When using analog panel meters, there is no problem even without a load.
3. I already had a dual brake provision. One for "service", the other for "emergency". I paralleled his design by adding the 2nd brake. I used variable 'pots' instead of fixed resisters (about $1.50 each) since I had no idea what resistance was needed.
If you wanted to get real 'fancy', you could use a 4 or 6 position rotary switch with either fixed or variable pots on each position to effectively duplicate a prototype locomotive brake with multiple positions. This could easily be added in the future, substituting the push button for a rotary switch. If you could find a 'level', it would really ad to the realism.
4. Note the standoffs for the boards, the front panel LED (being fed from only one of the PS's), the holes on the base for air flow, the cable ties securing those supplies and the rear mounted fan being supplied from the 2nd supply (terminals 3 & 5).
Last edited by a moderator: