Dsp&p 2-8-0 locomotive kit build


Kylemaneti95

Active Member
Hello everyone! I’ve started collecting various kits that I am going to use in my model of a Colorado town called Morrison, which Ive got a build thread detailing what I’ve gotten done so far. You can find that thread here:
Anyways. This is the first kit that I have received in the mail. It is a HoN3 scale model of a c-16 locomotive from Wiseman model services. It is comprised of cast metal parts, resin floorboards and boiler.
I purchased this because I would love to make a scale model of my all time favorite locomotive. The Denver South Park and pacific #191. This locomotive is a different class than the c-16 (I believe b-4a?) I’ll have to look at my M.C Poor book later to find out the specific classification for this locomotive. There are subtle differences but they two types are very close to eachother visually. I’ve gotten a few photos of the prototype locomotive that I am modeling. I’m also going to be ordering more brass detail parts to help finish the build.
I don’t have much for tools right now, tweezers, hobby knife and needle files etc. I’ll be ordering more tools and supplies once I start working again. Anyway, here is a photo of the model I took last night, I’ve circled some of the parts I’m going to use (there are two different options
IMG_0184.jpeg



IMG_0125.jpeg

let me know what you guys think. I’m excited to start working on this model more. If you have any tips or tricks I’d love to hear them as I’ve never done a model like this before.
 
Thank you Sirfoldalot. I’ve never built a kit like this before, most of my modeling experience is with balsa almost 12 years ago. I’m definitely enjoying the process so far, I’ve going through and cleaning all the flashing and gates off the parts currently. What type of glue did you use with your kits? I’ve got some slow drying super glue on hand right now. Once I start working again I’m planning on picking up an air brush so I can paint everything.
Until then I’m going to focus on sub assemblies.
I’ll keep everyone updated, I’m very interested to possibly build more kits like this one in the future 😊
 
Definitely get a decent set of mini-files, you will get your money's worth on that kit. I got mine from Micromark - they have a few good options, though the particular one I got seems to be out of stock at the moment.. The "needle" file sets from Home Depot and the like will get some of it done in a pinch, but you'll probably want very small files meant for model making or jewelry for the finer details.

I've never done a locomotive kit before, but in general I've always been advised to prime parts before assembly. Probably worth washing the castings with soap and water before that, too. I've used Tamiya L Fine Surface Primer in the past with good results. It is pricey - something like $12-14 for a small can. I'm honestly not sure whether it's worth going with something meant for models vs generic spray primer you'd get at a hardware/paint store.

CA works great on metal. I like medium curing glue myself, mostly because I have trouble holding the parts still for any longer to let it set up.

Let us know how it turns out - I have an old Roundhouse 2-8-0 kits I've been too chicken to dig in to, maybe this will give me some inspiration :p
 
I will for sure be getting more files, right now I have just two small needle files. I’ll also look into getting a can of that tamiya primer as well. I do have a congdon stack coming in the mail, it should be here the first week of September. I’ll be picking up some ca glue as well. The stuff I have takes about an hour to semi-set or at least get to a point that light work can be done. But it is definitely to slow of a drying glue lol
 
I bet you’ll have fun with the roundhouse kits, I have not seen them but I’ll look into them a little bit. The instructions for this kit is only one photo are only one photo that I’ll attach to another post later tonight. I’ve been laying out the parts to kind of get a better grasp at where things go
 
Hello everyone! I’ve started collecting various kits that I am going to use in my model of a Colorado town called Morrison, which Ive got a build thread detailing what I’ve gotten done so far. You can find that thread here:
Anyways. This is the first kit that I have received in the mail. It is a HoN3 scale model of a c-16 locomotive from Wiseman model services. It is comprised of cast metal parts, resin floorboards and boiler.
I purchased this because I would love to make a scale model of my all time favorite locomotive. The Denver South Park and pacific #191. This locomotive is a different class than the c-16 (I believe b-4a?) I’ll have to look at my M.C Poor book later to find out the specific classification for this locomotive. There are subtle differences but they two types are very close to eachother visually. I’ve gotten a few photos of the prototype locomotive that I am modeling. I’m also going to be ordering more brass detail parts to help finish the build.
I don’t have much for tools right now, tweezers, hobby knife and needle files etc. I’ll be ordering more tools and supplies once I start working again. Anyway, here is a photo of the model I took last night, I’ve circled some of the parts I’m going to use (there are two different optionsView attachment 173261


View attachment 173262
let me know what you guys think. I’m excited to start working on this model more. If you have any tips or tricks I’d love to hear them as I’ve never done a model like this before.
It looks like no motor with this kit?
 
Should be fun! I have a number of HON3 kits I built many years ago using only the most basic tools. I see that this is a static model, which simplifies things immensely. Getting things to "work" is another level (order of magnitude) of complexity. Narrow Gauge steam loco's (operating ones) tend to be expensive, the brass ones, often very nice, sometimes are not as good at running. I have a K27 from Westside (brass) which I re motored and is currently (no pun) DC. I have two (arg) expensive DCC Blackstone K27's. The idea is to go DCC. To start things out I will DCC one of the GE shovel nose Diesels I have converted fro a KATO switcher to work out track and wiring bugs.

So have fun with your loco, should look good when you are done with it!

Regards: Tom
 
That’s is correct logandsawman, this is just a static model.
I have been looking at some of the brass hon3 locomotives, I plan on purchasing a couple much further down the road when I can afford them lol. Having this be a static model really does simplify the heck out of the build so this is good to get my feet wet lol. I’m planning to do a small shelf mounted diarama that shows the 300 block of bear creek ave on the actual layout I’m currently working on. I plan on having false store fronts, hand laid track etc. I’m basically going todo everything exactly like I plan on doing to the full layout with this small diarama so I have a small prototype to look at. I do have a flat car kit coming (should be here Friday) and I do plan on getting a passenger car kit so I can have a mixed train as well as a caboose kit if I can find one.
 
I got the four cab sides glued up last night after fitting them to each other. I will be gluing the roof on later tonight. Here is what I have so far in the build. There is a small defect on the roof as you can see. What would you guys recommend I do to fill this hole?
image.jpg
 
I got the four cab sides glued up last night after fitting them to each other. I will be gluing the roof on later tonight. Here is what I have so far in the build. There is a small defect on the roof as you can see. What would you guys recommend I do to fill this hole? View attachment 173295
Is something supposed to stick in the hole? Not sure what but often it is there for a purpose.

If not, I would use JB weld epoxy, for a job like this the "kwick" formula would be perfect. Mix up a little on a piece of cardboard with a toothpick, use the same toothpick to put a dab in the hole. It can be shaved off smooth with a razor or sanded just like metal (only much softer).

by the way, you could plan on incorporating the diorama into the layout. I used a tactic like this with my layout, several sections of it are actually modules of different configurations that I made while living in the apartment, pre-layout.

Dave LASM
 
Is something supposed to stick in the hole? Not sure what but often it is there for a purpose.

If not, I would use JB weld epoxy, for a job like this the "kwick" formula would be perfect. Mix up a little on a piece of cardboard with a toothpick, use the same toothpick to put a dab in the hole. It can be shaved off smooth with a razor or sanded just like metal (only much softer).

by the way, you could plan on incorporating the diorama into the layout. I used a tactic like this with my layout, several sections of it are actually modules of different configurations that I made while living in the apartment, pre-layout.

Dave LASM
No, It does not look like there is anything in that area from what I saw in one of my reference photos
IMG_0172.jpeg

And I’ll pick some jb weld soon, I might leave the cab roof off until I get the jb weld to make it a tad easier to clean up. And that’s a fantastic idea, I was already planning on having the track run the correct distance from the false store fronts anyway. I’ll most certainly be incorporating this into my layout. I’ve been thinking of narrowing the layout from 4x8 to around 2ft wide if possible, this should help me do that a lot :)
 
Hey guys! I haven’t gotten to much done on the locomotive this week. Earlier in the week I cleaned up the cylinder and front boiler mount castings and glued them together. Tonight I’ve glued the two leading truck wheels to the axle and glued 4 driver wheels to the axles. I’ll glue the other drivers on tomorrow once my glue has set. Here is the progress so far with the flat car next to the frame casting.
IMG_0270.jpeg
 
No, It does not look like there is anything in that area from what I saw in one of my reference photos View attachment 173307
And I’ll pick some jb weld soon, I might leave the cab roof off until I get the jb weld to make it a tad easier to clean up. And that’s a fantastic idea, I was already planning on having the track run the correct distance from the false store fronts anyway. I’ll most certainly be incorporating this into my layout. I’ve been thinking of narrowing the layout from 4x8 to around 2ft wide if possible, this should help me do that a lot :)
I like this photo-analysis stuff and I'm gonna tag along with logandsawman here in his post #12 ^ and ask that same question: "Are you sure something isn't supposed to stick in that hole? That looks like a well drilled hole to my eye, and it's hard to see it as a flaw somehow. Your photo in post #13 shows the whistle located back along the roof, not atop the steam dome, and even though it still seems to be a bit forward of the hole drilled into the roof casting, and based on your side B&W side photo of 191, I'm betting it was the whistle that should go there. Or did at one time.

Your photo of 191 in post #1 at the CO RR museum shows the whistle sits atop the steam dome (the dome in front is the sand dome--you can tell by the drop down line to the front of the drivers, and it would be the same on the other side), but your photo of that same locomotive back in the day shows something different, IMO, so I think logandsawman might well be right on this one. The whistle sat atop the cab roof, fed by a steam line from the dome. At least back in the day.

You COULD ask the good folks the CO RR museum about it. I suspect someone there would know about those fine details and how the locomotive was rebuilt and repainted for display.
 
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I will for sure be getting more files, right now I have just two small needle files. I’ll also look into getting a can of that tamiya primer as well. I do have a congdon stack coming in the mail, it should be here the first week of September. I’ll be picking up some ca glue as well. The stuff I have takes about an hour to semi-set or at least get to a point that light work can be done. But it is definitely to slow of a drying glue lol
Watchmakers files would be the way to go, IMO. Super-fine sizes.
 



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