Dremel cut off wheels for cutting track


J

jackn2mpu

Member
Looking for a good recommendation on cutoff wheels for a Dremel rotary tool for cutting gaps in track. Some of the ones I've tried have broken apart with the first touch to a rail - granted they were thin ones but thicker ones would give too big of a gap to my way of thinking. Online source if possible as the local hobby shop has old stock (which is where I got the ones that came apart on me). I know there are several sources for these things but looking for what people are using that survive multiple rail cuts - don't want to have to change wheels every gap cut!:(
 
The thin wheels that Dremel sells are delicate to say the least. They will work well and give a narrow cut but you cannot force them in any way or hiccup while using them as you already know what will happen. Keep a steady hand and let the tool do the work. If you move or try feeding the tool to quickly they will wear down very fast or explode.

There are other brands that are supposed to last longer but offhand I don't know the brands. I also don't know if they last any longer. I do know they cost more! ALWAYS wear safety glasses whenever using cutoff wheels!
 
I have a generic hobby rotary tool for which I purchased a Dremel perforated 3/4" diamond disk. The tool came with a solid one somewhat smaller. Both work well, and I have always understood that a delicate and steady touch is all it takes. I have yet to shatter one, and have cut many a rail with both.

The problem for me is keeping the plane of the disk in the same attitude while letting it cut through things. With rail, it wants to rotate somewhat with the bottom edge of the blade wanting to get closer to my fingers. I guess I should use the flexible shank, but I'm too lazy.
 
Motley said:
Ya I here ya. I broke some too before I found the right one.

I got the Dremmel model 545 Diamond wheel. Its very thin, but its very durable and deosn't break. And it cuts the rails like hot knife through butter.

Been using it for several years now and it still looks brand new. Well worth the price.

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=545
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Thanks for the link - looks like just what I need. I always use safety glasses when working with my Dremel as you never know where stuff will fly, especially if you catch an edge of something and bing there go pieces of shrapnel.
 
I found that cutting a gap in the rail with a dremel was very near impossible because I wanted the cut to be vertical. I also found that the slight angle caused me to break the disks. All of this drama disappeared when I got a right angle drive for my Dremel and now the problems are history for me. The right angle drive lets me cut squarely although the device sounds pretty nasty while it is running.

Joe
 
I agree about the angle but I still have no problem making the cut. I have 2 Dremels and 3 generic motor tools and one of the generics has a right angle drive. I'll be trying that the next time I need to cut rail, Joe Daddy.
 
Just checked out that Dremel 545 diamond wheel - expensive but there's one other problem - it's not recommended for use on metal. And I thought I'd found something that would work. Looks like it's back to fiberglass disks.
 
I use a Dremel with a flex shaft, this allows me to get perpendicular to the track. I use diamond cut-off wheels from harbor freight, they are pretty cheap maybe $1 each.
 
Jack:

Over the past 20 years I've cut about 70 insulating gaps in my code 100 NS flex track, and I've always used a thin Dremel cut-off disc. I've probably broken about 5 of these, and with the tool parallel to the rail I cut the gaps down at about a 20 degree angle from the vertical - with the tool parallel to the rail. It can be done easily if you have a slow and steady hand.

I do this method on curves too - and again all my track (except turnouts) is Atlas code 100 flex. The secret is to mark where you're going to cut (and I don't cut the gaps right across from each other - I space one about an inch away), use Super Glue or equivalent on about 4 rail/tie interfaces on each side of the 2 cuts, and let it all set/cure. Then use the Dremel and disc with the slant cut.* I've only had one rail failure in 20 years with this method.

* Whether cutting the inside or outside rail, where you cut be sure there is molded tie-to-tie connection under the cut, but don't cut through that. It holds the two ties (with the two glued rails) together on either side of the rail cut.

Hope this helps.

DougC
 
jackn2mpu said:
Looking for a good recommendation on cutoff wheels for a Dremel rotary tool for cutting gaps in track. Some of the ones I've tried have broken apart with the first touch to a rail - granted they were thin ones but thicker ones would give too big of a gap to my way of thinking. Online source if possible as the local hobby shop has old stock (which is where I got the ones that came apart on me). I know there are several sources for these things but looking for what people are using that survive multiple rail cuts - don't want to have to change wheels every gap cut!:(
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I don't use cut off disks but rather thin bladed saws. They are not Dremel brand but I have seen them a ACE, True Value, and Lowes.

I also do not use a full normal Dremel for cutting gaps because of the non-perpendicular angle that forces. My Dremel is the kind with the flexible shaft. I have a nice small head that I can get the blade 90 degrees to the rail. The saw blade is also about 1/3 the thickness of a normal cut-off-disk making a much cleaner and neater looking cut.
 
Using a Dremel with a flex shaft is very, very, easy, however I haven't cut a gap with one in a long time.

Since I handlay my track, I just go ahead and where I need a gap, cut the rail to length prior to spiking the rail. I place a small piece of plastic between the rails held in place by a drop of CA.

After the rail is in place and the CA has set-up, I use a very sharp chisel blade in a X-acto handle and trim the plastic to shape.
 
Iron Horseman said:
I don't use cut off disks but rather thin bladed saws. They are not Dremel brand but I have seen them a ACE, True Value, and Lowes.

I also do not use a full normal Dremel for cutting gaps because of the non-perpendicular angle that forces. My Dremel is the kind with the flexible shaft. I have a nice small head that I can get the blade 90 degrees to the rail. The saw blade is also about 1/3 the thickness of a normal cut-off-disk making a much cleaner and neater looking cut.
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You use a saw blade in your Dremel tool? Don't think I've seen one they say can be used on metal although I may well be wrong.
 
Iron Horseman said:
Yes. I have two. One is about 1" in diameter and the other which I use more often is a 2" diameter. Both have fine teeth, but after years of use I'm thinking I need some new sharper ones.
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I was only astonished as I remember using the old hand Zona saws for cutting track. I'd imagine the teeth are finer on a saw wheel than the Zona making it easier to use and you don't get any chatter from the blade?
 
This is what I use. They are a inch and half in diameter so you don't have to worry about an angled cut. These will cut through steel with no issues. They are called rubi slitters and come in packs of 100. My dad made a bulk purchase of 30 boxes 20 years ago (he kept six boxes and other members of the club bought the rest.) I still have 4 boxes of these cut off wheels. They are more durable than the dremel ones but will still shatter if too much side force is put on them.

https://www.lincolndental.com/content/dedeco-rubi-slitters
 
jackn2mpu said:
I was only astonished as I remember using the old hand Zona saws for cutting track. I'd imagine the teeth are finer on a saw wheel than the Zona making it easier to use and you don't get any chatter from the blade?
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No more than a cut off wheel. I always hold the rail whether using a normal saw blade, the cut off disk, or this blade. One just has to go slow, but a nickel silver rail against a hardened steel blade isn't much of a contest.
 
Thanks for all the replies. The reason I started this thread is I have to cut several gaps in existing track so I needed some ideas of what I could use that would allow me to do the job safely. Safety glasses with sideshields always at the ready.
 
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