DPM Buildings...

ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.


S

Screwjack

New model railroader here
What brand of paint do most of you guys use on these buildings? I am thinking Testers and using an artist brush for painting the DPM buildings.

But, as always I am open to suggestions and opinions.

I like the looks of these buildings myself...
 
I have used Floquil, Polly S, Modelflex, Krylon and a couple brands of acrylic craft paint.

I don't use Testors because most of the stuff I've seen is gloss.

Dave H.
 
I use either Testors enamel or the old Floquil lacquer / tolulene based paints. I've even used Floquil as the main color and the enamels for trim work. Doesn't work so good done the other way around since some lacquers will attack the enamels when using a brush. I airbrush the main building in several light coats and haven't had any problems with the Floquil attacking the plastic. Biggest pain on DPM is trim painting the molded in windows and doors.

( Dave H., Testors Model Master military colors are either dead flat or semi gloss and most are the usual ugly colors and shades we like on our layout buildings. )
 
Last edited by a moderator:


Tony,

I agree with Dave - Testors' standard line of paints do NOT work very well for model railroad structure applications because of (1) their glossiness and (2) their viscosity - way too 'syrupy' for me. Trying to put on a thick enough layer to fully cover your model, can result in many of the small details being obscured.

For brick buildings, I usually buy a can of oxide red RustOleum flat primer - WallyWorld sells them for a few bucks a can - and spray it over the brick walls before installing any window frames or doors. While the paint is drying on the bricks, I paint the windows and doors with Polly Scale acrylics. And I usually wait until all the walls and trim have been painted and assembled before gluing in the "glass", i.e. clear sheet styrene. (Trying to paint the trim on a building with the windows already installed is a major PITA!)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
As Ken said, regular Testor's model kit enamal is way too thick for painting details. The Testor's Military Masters are better but I like combination of Polly S acrylic and Floquil solvent-based paint, depending on the color I need. The DPM and Walthers Merchant Row kits (made originally by DPM) are really difficult to paint because all the details are molded in and you need a fine brush and steady hand to get the details right. I like the look of the buildings also if it's done right. Ken painted two of the Merchant's Row models and did an excellent job. There's a thread not far down devoted to the painting of those models.
 
Well thanks for the replies, sounds like I need to get to wally-world for some red oxide and the hobby store for some Poly scale. Sounds like fun...:D
 
I've also used Krylon H2O paint with great results.
It comes in all kinds of brick colors and pastels.
Be sure to warm the can in warm water first or it will blob!
 
For brick buildings, I usually buy a can of oxide red RustOleum flat primer - WallyWorld sells them for a few bucks a can
Click to expand...

I wish I had thought of that one... I have a guard shack just looks WAY too glossy right now even with a load of dullcoat thrown on over top of it.. the viscosity is so-so on it.

Now I know what to try to pick up from the store tomorrow... Home Depot here I come "again"!
 
I use the dollar store acrylics.
Maybe a wash of 10/90 india ink/rubbing alcohol.
Then just a spray of matte medium to seal it all.
 


CSX_road_slug said:
Tony,


For brick buildings, I usually buy a can of oxide red RustOleum flat primer - WallyWorld sells them for a few bucks a can - and spray it over the brick walls before installing any window frames or doors.

I use the same stuff ! ... Great brick color but give it a few days to dry.
Click to expand...
 
Is there anything about DPM kits that require different paints/techniques than structures from other manufacturers?

I'm about to start on my first one, so I was curious why they rated special attention.

Thanks!

Jonah
 
If you look at the thread linked here, you'll see the finished product. You start with nothing but gray plastic. What's special is the amount of different colors you need if you want to make each store front look like a separate building. You also need to have a good hand for brush painting for small details because everything is molded in. Most other kits have things like the windows sepearate so you can paint them before you assemble. With a DPM kit, you need to first paint all the trim colors and then the wall colors or it's almost impossible to do the trim without slopping paint on the wall sections.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.




Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)

Back
Top