Does track go bad?


C

CoonhunterBryan

New Member
Hello I am new to model railroading and recently recieved a large anount of what I believe is steel track Ho Scale 100 when I hooked it up to my layout the locomotive would be running fine until it got to the track and stop dead I even went so far as to wire the power to the piece of track and nothing happened. The locomotive would run on the layout it just would move on the old track. Do I just not use the track or is there a solution I am overlooking?
 
The track you got is probably brass track is in need of a good cleaning. Might not even be worth the cleaning troubles..... The track is probably beyond cleaning if the loco wont even run on it at all :( if you do manage to clean it to the point where it runs, you will have to keep it well maintained.....
 
If it really is brass track like Josh said, it will be more trouble than its worth. All metals oxidize when they are exposed to air; however, the oxidization residue on Nickle Silver track conducts electricity, while the oxide film on brass track inhibits it. That is what made Nickle Silver track popular, because model railroaders didn't have to rub it down once a week like they did with brass.
 
There is steel track also. But it will do the same type of thing brass track will.

Try cleaning the track and gleaming it. It SHOULD work then.

I am not sure how to do there, just search the forum
 
When steel track oxidizes, it rusts. When brass track oxidizes, it turns into this blue-green yucky stuff. However, I like brass and steel track. It's readily available, and it's cheap. Yes, it needs to be cleaned often, but I don't mind.

Now, as for cleaning track, you might want to get a track eraser (also called a "Bright Boy"). If this doesn't work, I use sandpaper. I heard that you're not supposed to do this, but I find it very effective at removing heavy oxidation.

- I hope this helps.:)
 
If I recall correctly, the use of harsh abrasives (such as sandpaper) is generally "frowned upon" due to the fact that the grit will cut scratches into the rail. When those scratches happen, they will give dirt, gunk, etc., a place to "nest" -- which will make your next cleaning job even harder.

The harshest abrasive I've ever used was a fine steel wool -- and that was on my old American Flyer "S" gauge track, years ago. Nowadays, I use a "Bright Boy" or similar track cleaning pad.

My two cents worth... and we all know what two cents is worth now! :D

Regards,
Tom Stockton
 
If you use fine sand paper, just below emory cloth, you will not have any problems. For example, if you were to use 800-1000 grit you are highly unlikely to have dirt problems. However, any additional surface area that you create, which abrasives do handily, exposes more oxygen to the metals that oxydize. That isn't good.

I would use a metal polish formulated for copper, brass, such. Then, when you get the tracks and train to work, maybe cover the rails with Wahl's Clipper Oil or something that will slow oxydation.

It you want my opinion, you could almost purchase the needed lengths of nickel silver for the expense of metal polishes.
 
I never use steel rail because in high humidity it will rust no matter how much you clean it. If you have to stick to steel rail, then a light coat of mineral oil will help keep it from rusting for quite awhile. On steel rail use 1000 or 1200 grit sand paper like jewelers use. You can get it at paint & body shops or paint distributors. Most train sets come w/steel rail. When I get it in stuff that I buy in bulk I just take the rail out of the ties & lay it along the track on my layout for looks because it rusts like real rail.
 
Selector sez:
Quote: I would use a metal polish formulated for copper, brass, such. Then, when you get the tracks and train to work, maybe cover the rails with Wahl's Clipper Oil or something that will slow oxydation.Unquote

To clear up something I heard or read, is transmission fluid an acceptable product to use as a corrosion preventative on brass and steel rail?

edj
 
I've never heard of transmission fluid being used on track. It may very well protect against corrosion but ATF is a very slippery material and you may end up with more corrosion resistant track that won't run more than a five car train withoput a helper. :)

Once steel track is clean, I would use Radio Shack TV and Radio Tuner cleaner. It comes in a spray can and you only need a little bit each time. Spray it in front of the locomotive and let the locomotive spread it around the track. It will decrease the electrical resistance of any oxidation which does form and keep the oxidation away longer.
 
Thanks Jim. Being new/old to the game I consider all inputs and try to bounce them off someone who might know the real answer.
Could it be the person who suggested using ATF on his rails has an all-downhill layout?

edj
 
I suspect either he was telling you wrong or you heard it wronn. The use of ATF for locomotive lubrication is relatively recent and, for many of us, has taken the place of specialty model oils and greases. I assume he was telling about ATF for locomotives and you thought it might work on track.
 
Scotchbrite green pads work nice on corroded rail. If you don't have many grades, oiled-up steel rail will work OK, but the oil just holds dirt.
 
To answer your original question, brass and nickel rail doesn't go bad. It can get dirty and corrode, the corrosion is easier to clean off nickel than brass. Steel rails, such as found in old Tyco and Bachmann sets, can rust, and eventually can rust into the proverbial "two streaks of rust" on the ties.
So, if it's nickel silver, you can clean it, and it will be good. If it is brass, you can probably clean it, and it will be good, but you will need to keep after it more to keep it clean. If it's steel, and already rusty, it really isn't worth fooling with, unless you have no way to get any better.
 
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