Decent layout idea for 6' x 12' table?


NUTNDUN

Member
I have another thread going for the basement layout idea which will eventually come to fruition but for now I am going to do a layout on the current 6' x 12' table that I have. I have come to the realization that I will need to save up a good bit of money to do the layout for the basement as well as getting the time to do it.

I already have a 6' x 12' table which used to house the slot car track. I am thinking I am going to use this for a layout for the time being. I am not going to go hog wild on scenery as I know it isn't going to be the permanent layout.

Here is an idea that I drew up quick. Let me know what you think or any suggestions. The elevation to get to the cross over and back down should be between 2% and 3% which shouldn't be a problem for the train as the longest one I have that I could run is 20 cars.
 
Two and a half feet is commonly regarded as the maximum reach on a layout, otherwise you will more than likely find yourself crawling on top of a table that size to lay track and associated activities. Especially if you don't have access to all sides. Of course you could just lay track in the areas you can reach and leave the middle open. Don't feel that the whole table needs to be filled with track to be considered a good layout.
 
I know what you mean about the reach. Good thing is I have 3' along both long sides and more room on the short sides to walk around. It is only going to be a temporary table layout till I get some money saved up. I need to re-finish the basement walls before putting up a shelf layout. The basement used to be finished till the basement flooded with a foot of water last year. So now it is just bare masonry block walls that need painted. Not going to finish it again and everything will be a minimum of 2 foot off the ground including the computer.
 
Looks pretty good. I don't see any real problems. My preference would be to eliminate the switchback, which would provide more scenic separation between your switching areas. I would try to make the remaining spurs longer if possible.

But those are suggestions with scenery in mind. Running trains and switching cars might be your biggest priority at this point.
 
What is the purpose of the 'dip' at top centre of the inside main? And do you really want to install two diamonds at the top right?

John Armstrong suggested that we should install spurs with both trailing and facing points to make industrial switching more challenging and interesting. Aside from the switchback, you have both spurs as either facing or trailing, depending on the orientation of the locomotive and its direction of travel around the oval.
 
What is the purpose of the 'dip' at top centre of the inside main? And do you really want to install two diamonds at the top right?

John Armstrong suggested that we should install spurs with both trailing and facing points to make industrial switching more challenging and interesting. Aside from the switchback, you have both spurs as either facing or trailing, depending on the orientation of the locomotive and its direction of travel around the oval.

I dipped it down on the inside main to allow a little more room for the overpass as that track will be elevated for the spur and other track to go under.
 
How about a layout of 4 hcd? If each were 30" wide, that would be about 5'x14-16'. You could go with larger than 22" radius curves that way. Don't know about scenery below the roadbed however. You could probably use the Woodland Scenics foam to elevate the roadbed.

hcd=hollow core door
 
Paint the basement walls with whatever cheap or free paint you can get. Build you benchwork you want on the walls and paint scenery on the walls or put up backdrops. Get the layout you want going. Most of the walls will be covered or under the layout. Put shelves underneath and a curtain at the front edge of the layout a foot off the floor just in case.

Maybe I am not seeing the full situation. Had a friend that built a room to put trains in and couldnt do the layout till the walls were perfect. Then he covered them with backdrops and mountains.

Just a thought.

Good Luck either way.
 
Well I'm short so my reach would not work with a 6' x 12', I would do around the room shelf (either fastened to the wall or supported by legs), so I can get a longer run, shorter reach, and gentler curves. Point to point is fun for me, but you can always bridge a doorway. If the door opens out and the shelf is high enough, it can just be a duck under. You can store underneath with fabric panels velcroed to the frame. Plenty of room for the couch and chairs in the middle then. You can sit in the middle and just watch if you want.
 
You can sit in the middle and just watch if you want.

Or you could do a donut with the backdrops on the inside of the sections and walk around the layout with your train. Eliminates duckunders and such but you'd need a radio or walk-around throttle. You'd only need to crawl into the hole for maintenance.
 



Back
Top