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I bought this DC layout from a really nice guy I found on CL and he gave me a sweet deal ($50) on the layout and a bunch of Locomotives and RS. Before buying this set up I was gearing up for DCC, I bought a Prodigy Advance sq and 2 DCC Locomotives (One Atlas Silver and one STD B-Mann) I wanted to see the difference between a "Nice" Engine and Cheep engine the difference was apparent once I saw them in person, and a Atlas oval track pack with 2 turnout just to hold me over until I picked up the layout. I picked up the layout last weekend and am ready to make the transition. I think it might be tuff to enplane exactly what I need but if i could get a good idea it'll be somewhere to start. I have run the layout with the "Stock" set up and all the turn out switched work and the track looks to be in good shape. Being a noob I'm not sure how the system works and i can run the main line and the lower loop but can't figure out the upper loop (I've got the right combo of switches once and triversed the bridge but only did that once or twice) , my hope is that with DCC I can use auto switchers for the loops and not have to flip toggle switches just to make sure the Locomotive is going in the right direction.
Great Buy!!! I count 10 train boxes plus 10 trains around the layout. Add to that the nicee layout and you made a good deal.
As far as the conversion is concerned the other guys here can do a better job on giving you advice than me. The first thing you will need to do to convert to DCC is get DC power to the 10 different blocks. The track has isolators that might need to be removed.
I'm going to guess that the four swiches next to the power supply are cab controls to control 4 different engines.
I'm a noobie as well and don't have a layout yet. I'm still a reader and researcher.
Waredbear, the 9 boxes on the left are rolling stock I bought from Trucklover (For a good price!) but there is a BIG box of mixed rolling stock under the table, probably 25 cars and 8 engine!
Re: The 4 switches. If the train is running around the main line and I switch the bottom switch marked "M" the Locomotive will change direction.
Re: Dc to DCC I'm not sure what the statement means "get DC power to the 10 different blocks". Can you elaborate on this?
ed, with DCC you don't have to have blocks anymore (unless you want block detection later).
Both of the reversing sections you have (i see 2 of them) should be isolated and wired with auto reverse module, such as AR-1 from digitrax or AD520 if you stick to MRC.
yep with that layout you will need 2 auto reverse modules in the reverse loop sections and as simple as 2 feeder wires for DCC track power. keep the switch machines powered and remove the toggles for the blocks. the biggest PITA will be removing the rail isolaters between the blocks (keep it isolated in the reverse loops!) I say you got a good deal for all of that... nice work.
Looks like from the toggles that this is a two cab system, with a center off. Depending on which way the toggles are thrown determines which one of the two packs power that track. The easiest way to get this layout wired for DCC appears to be what we did on a friend's layout, which is to replace one of the power packs with the DCC system. I would keep the Starr-tec as it is a solid state throttle and can control any can motored loco better than the rheostat equipped Trainpack. Advantage of doing it this way is you can throw the "block" toggles back to the Starr-tec throttle for testing or breaking in a non DCC equipped loco prior to installing a decoder. Use the Trainpack later to power lights for structures, etc.
Anyway back to the wiring! Throw the toggles to the side the Trainpack was on, and attach the DCC system here. Be sure to install the auto reversers if you like. Otherwise you'll have to still flip those toggles labelled M & L to reverse direction while the train is in the reversing loops. Of course after the reversers are installed, you won't need to flip those toggles at all, and in fact these toggles can be eliminated at this point.
Ok I ordered 2 AR-1's and thanks to you guys am feeling confident about this conversion! When I'm removing the isolaters between the blocks (Except the one's on the loops) I'll pull up the track and add some foam road bed.
Ok I ordered 2 AR-1's and thanks to you guys am feeling confident about this conversion! When I'm removing the isolaters between the blocks (Except the one's on the loops) I'll pull up the track and add some foam road bed.
If you're going to pull all the gaps and pull up the track to put roadbed under it, just go ahead and rip all the wiring and the control panel out as well and rewire with a bus and feeders.
Thanks guys for all the info, I completed the conversion on Sat and was able to play all day Sunday! The conversion was pretty easy! I'll post a video soon.
