Creating number boards in brass loco
- Thread starter ossroy
- Start date
flh80
Member
Or, how about the Microscale Krystal Klear.
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2...de=MI-9&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=3
You may have to do several coats, I've never tried it on number boards though.
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2...de=MI-9&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=3
You may have to do several coats, I've never tried it on number boards though.
ossroy
New Member
I thought about Krystal Klear, but it tends to dry concave. I never really cared for it in any application. I guess I'll have to sculpt clear styrene to fit the openings. I thought there may be an easier way. Maybe I can take some headlight/number board fittings from an old Athearn and modify them. As far as the windows, I'm thinking microscope cover slip glass.
If you are not planning on illuminating the numberboards, this is what I do ....
Mix up some automotive "bondo" (body filler) and fill the numberboard cavity until it's slightly overflowing. Once the filler has kicked off, file and sand it smooth to the gasket surrounding the opening.
Once smooth (and the engine is painted) I use either Microscale or Highball Graphics numberboard decals - either solid black or white with the black gasket.
The finished product is much neater looking than trying to cut something to fill the opening exactly.
For glass, I use clear acetate glued in place with Microscale Krystal Klear. If it's a separate part, don't forget to screw the cab to the long hood first, as your screw-driver needs to go through the front windshield !
Mark.
Mix up some automotive "bondo" (body filler) and fill the numberboard cavity until it's slightly overflowing. Once the filler has kicked off, file and sand it smooth to the gasket surrounding the opening.
Once smooth (and the engine is painted) I use either Microscale or Highball Graphics numberboard decals - either solid black or white with the black gasket.
The finished product is much neater looking than trying to cut something to fill the opening exactly.
For glass, I use clear acetate glued in place with Microscale Krystal Klear. If it's a separate part, don't forget to screw the cab to the long hood first, as your screw-driver needs to go through the front windshield !
Mark.
ossroy
New Member
I've never heard of the Testors clear parts cement and window maker, but I've already made a note to buy some and try it out.
Thanks, Mark. I do intend to light the number boards though. I think if Athearn SD-45 number boards are scale, then they should almost be a perfect fit and should not require much tweaking. I know that might be a big "if".
Thanks, Mark. I do intend to light the number boards though. I think if Athearn SD-45 number boards are scale, then they should almost be a perfect fit and should not require much tweaking. I know that might be a big "if".
OK ... Well you are lucky in the fact the numberboards for those EL units are black numbers on white background and are easy to illuminate (the other way around requires custom decals !)
It's fiddly work, but cut the numberboard to exact fit using some very thin white styrene. The white styrene will glow very realistically for numberboards. Install the styrene with just a dot of CA in all four corners. Install these after the unit is painted and the gasket surrounds are painted black. A precision fit is important to prevent any light leakages around the perimeter.
Mark.
It's fiddly work, but cut the numberboard to exact fit using some very thin white styrene. The white styrene will glow very realistically for numberboards. Install the styrene with just a dot of CA in all four corners. Install these after the unit is painted and the gasket surrounds are painted black. A precision fit is important to prevent any light leakages around the perimeter.
Mark.
