Coupler problems

[402drvr]

I got a new locomotive the other day and a few pieces of rolling stock. The big problem I am having is that the coupler on the locomotive seems to not have enough range of motion and ends up pulling the following car off the tracks. This seems to be ocurring when it is going through a turnout. Although isn;t when taking the switch but when going through the straight part. Does that make sense?

The switches are Atlas snap switches. I am thinking maybe larger turnouts are necessary. Or would just a #4 customline fix it?

 

[gfetters]

Who is the manufacturer of the locomotive? And what locomotive is it?

 

[lmackattack]

what engine and what length cars? it can be alot of diffrent issues

example... large 6 axel locos and cars over 50' may have troubles through tight 18" or less radius and will likely have trouble throught any form of "S" curves or tight switches.

check the couplers to see if you get full swing side to side.
car weights and its coupler movements

 

[402drvr]

Its a Wlather's Amtrak loco not sure what type off the top of my head. Also pulling Amtrak boxcars. I have a couple passenger cars but they won't go through the turnouts at all so they are staying in the box. Loco is four axle if it matters. Loco goes through just fine.

Another problem i have had is that the air hoses seem to bump into each other through the turns and they also go outside the rails and hang down low enough that they get hung up. Either on the rail or on the turnouts. Only solution I know is to cut the air hose shorter. Doesn't seem like I should have to do it. Most of the stuff is Walthers ready to run.

 

[stationmaster]

Is it a P40/42? Turns are too tight. Probably less than 18". One thing that may help is to go with long shank couplers, won't look real nice, but again, they may help.

 

[diburning]

Walthers only made two Amtrak 4-axle locos. That would be the F40PH and the GP9M in the Amtrak scheme.

I am starting to think it's the switches as I don't have any problems with my F40PH pulling 85 foot passenger cars.

 

[Alcomotive]

can you post some pics?

 

[Selector]

Your turnouts should be #5 for that type of motor, and with passenger cars longer than 70', for sure.

Have you removed the coupler and looked for unwanted material in the receptacle? Maybe some flashing or a bent centering spring?

-Crandell

 

[flyboy2610]

Snap switches have a well deserved reputation, and it isn't a good one. I would replace the turnouts and get a coupler height gauge. Kadee makes one. Check your coupler height, and make sure the trip pins are not too low, which is probable judging from your description. Get a set of coupler trip pin pliers to adjust them.

 

[stationmaster]

If'n the cars "jump the rail", as I'm understanding the description of the problem, the problem is the coupler or the turns, not necessarily the switches. Atlas had a problem a few years back with QC. Many of their switches, in fact most of them, sucked. The biggest reason I switched to Walthers/Shinohara's. If the cars are being pulled off the track in the corners by the lead unit, the problems is that the corners are too tight. The obvious solution would be to enlarge the radius of the corner.

And if the cars are derailing at the switches, that is a problem with Talgo type trucks or defective switches. But it is solvable. Talgos can be replaced and new coupler boxes installed, though I, personally, don't like to do so. If the switches are the culprit, I recommend Walthers/Shinohara, Shinohara, or Pecos. I would STILL stay away from Atlas, even though they SEEM to have solved their problems.

Another solution that MAY work, if the radius of the curves is an impossible solution, would be to lengthen the shank on the cars and engine. Now, the problem there would be that while on a straight, car spacing would look odd. No guarantees that this would work without seeing your layout.

And there is no need to cut the "air hose"(called "trip pins), actually it helps the cars to uncouple over a magnetic uncoupler. Rather get yourself a set of "coupler/trip pin pliers", about $10 at most train shops. You can bend the "air hose"/trip pin to clear the track. They look like this:

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/380-237

And as previously mentioned, get a coupler gauge, as seen here:

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/380-205

But, it seems to me that you have a couple of problems leading to your frustrations. And you will have to solve both to regain you sanity.



Bob

 

[402drvr]

Thanks guys. The actual solution is taking down the layout and building a new one. Yes this seems drastic but it is happening anyway as my train room is going to be a family/play/storage room when my new son or daughter shows up in a few months. Don't negotiate trackage rights with a pregnant wife.

i am fairly certain the main culprit hear is a combination of badly laid turnout coming off a badly laid curve, leading into a turn that is too tight. A lot of shimming has been done and there is a small amount of S-curve. Up until the point of getting the passenger cars I was running fairly short cars and the problem was only occasional. Now it is all the time with these cars. instead of getting frustrated I am just putting the cars in boxes until the new layout is built.

I am fairly certain all new turnouts will be be Peco as they just seem a little more reliable. That said I have not really looked into Shinohara.

Oh yeah the loco is a p42 with four axles.

 

[stationmaster]

402drvr, check out Walthers/Shinohara switches. Shinohara makes them for Walthers and they are a bit cheaper than the ones directly from Shinohara. Shinohara quality at a lower price. I also believe that they are less expensive than Peco's. If so, that's always a good thing. Means more money for trains.

I really like them.

Bob

 

[402drvr]

yeah I am going to check those out as well.

Thanks