Convert Athearn F unit to DCC

[Hank4014]

Has anyone any experience converting an Athearn F7 to DCC? I have a full passenger set with a pair of Athearn F7s (one powered, one dummy) and I'd like to use it with the DCC setup we're using now.

 

[WP-MOW]

Morning Hank I have a F7 A/B sitting at the work bench waiting for sound installs. As I bought a Bowser WP F7a with sound b with no sound, really nice sound if I might add. I will be using soundtraxx for both units. I installed a qsi revolution a in another F7a and am not totallt satified with the speaker/sound yet, but it does sound ok. Mostly I have been installing ESuLoksound emd 645 turbo in GP40- 40-2's into the Atlas Silver series and they do sound sweet, alot of functions. Most all that I install are 8 axel locos GP's .
Once you do one Hank it will will easy and what ever docoder you use the support is there for any questions you might have. Soundtraxx has been very helpful as well as Matt at Loksound. Good luck and keep us updated.



John

 

[Hank4014]

Hmm...is it worth it to spend the $130 or so on this, vs buying a new F7, and hacking the Athearn body shell to fit, so the paint schemes match?

 

[Hank4014]

I took it out of the box and took some pictures. Not pictured is the weight that sits on top of the motor. There's no wires here at all, everything is by contact with theses metal bars. I wonder if the motor is isolated from the frame.

 

[kbkchooch]

I took it out of the box and took some pictures. Not pictured is the weight that sits on top of the motor. There's no wires here at all, everything is by contact with theses metal bars. I wonder if the motor is isolated from the frame.

[YOUTUBE]db6A_hxhCAI[/YOUTUBE]

Here is the answer,,,,,in color!!

 

[DakotaLove39]

I took it out of the box and took some pictures. Not pictured is the weight that sits on top of the motor. There's no wires here at all, everything is by contact with theses metal bars. I wonder if the motor is isolated from the frame.

Athearn units such as yours are definitely NOT isolated from the frame.

If you happen to own any Athearn RTR units that are DCC ready or DCC equipped, take the shell off and look at their guts. Those are what your end result should look like, as the DCC ready/equipped locos are basically units that were originally designed like yours but were modified to facilitate circuit boards.

There's many guides available on how to do this. I myself have to pay attention because I have an SD9 I would like to convert to DCC some day. It doesn't seem to be all that difficult, since all you need are the proper wiring and a solder tool and new lightbulbs.

 

[Hank4014]

This is my only Athearn loco. Based on the videos, I'm pretty sure I can do it. It's just a matter of making sure I isolate the motor from the frame.

 

[Hank4014]

So I plan to do this tonight. I need to pick up wire and LEDs. I thought the instructions would tell me what I needed as far as LEDs, but they don't. Any recommendation?

 

[riogrande]

So I plan to do this tonight. I need to pick up wire and LEDs. I thought the instructions would tell me what I needed as far as LEDs, but they don't. Any recommendation?

It's true, some, but not all of the Athearn RTR HO diesels are not DDC friendly or ready. Those which are DDC ready will say so on the box. For example, the SD45's and SD40T-2's sold in the RTR line have a DCC plug built in, and the motors are isolated from the frames. With those models, you can remove the shell, or in some cases the dynamic brake blister hatch, and plug in a decoder which has a matching 8 or 9 pin plug after removing the "dummy" plug. With other diesels in the Athearn RTR line, such as the F7 and the GP40-2, the motors are not isolated from the frame and there is no DCC ready plug inside.

For non-DCC ready Athearn RTR diesels, you need to isolate the motor. I've linked below a step by step guide on TCS site which deals with the Athearn F7A RTR loco - even though the decoder is a different brand, many of the steps are the same:

http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/C.../F7A/Athearn_F7_T1_Hardwire_Installation.html

cheers, Jim

 

[Hank4014]

It's true, some, but not all of the Athearn RTR HO diesels are not DDC friendly or ready. Those which are DDC ready will say so on the box. For example, the SD45's and SD40T-2's sold in the RTR line have a DCC plug built in, and the motors are isolated from the frames. With those models, you can remove the shell, or in some cases the dynamic brake blister hatch, and plug in a decoder which has a matching 8 or 9 pin plug after removing the "dummy" plug. With other diesels in the Athearn RTR line, such as the F7 and the GP40-2, the motors are not isolated from the frame and there is no DCC ready plug inside.

For non-DCC ready Athearn RTR diesels, you need to isolate the motor. I've linked below a step by step guide on TCS site which deals with the Athearn F7A RTR loco - even though the decoder is a different brand, many of the steps are the same:

http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/C.../F7A/Athearn_F7_T1_Hardwire_Installation.html

cheers, Jim

While the video is helpful, it unfortunately doesn't tell me what I need to know as far as LEDs.

 

[Hank4014]

I did the job tonight, leaving out the headlight. Lots of issues.
On the positive side, it does work.

I used too much wire. I should have soldered the wires parallel to the brackets, instead of perpendicular. I cut out the headlight for the time being. All of this I can fix.

What I can't fix is the big weight that goes over the motor which means there is no room for the decoder (DH165A0) inside the shell.

 

[DakotaLove39]

How? That decoder is pretty flat.

You might want to get your hands on a rotary tool and carve out a place in the weight block for the decoder to sit. (blanket the spot with electrical or kapton tape obviously.)

 

[OldGuy]

If I may ask, since I am late to the party - you stated that you have a powered unit and a dummy unit. Why didn't you put the decoder in the dummy and use a mini-plug to run the wires across the drawbar to the powered unit? Much like some steamers where the decoder is in the tender.

 

[Hank4014]

If I may ask, since I am late to the party - you stated that you have a powered unit and a dummy unit. Why didn't you put the decoder in the dummy and use a mini-plug to run the wires across the drawbar to the powered unit? Much like some steamers where the decoder is in the tender.

I thought about that, but then I'd have to drill the bodies or frames to run the wires.

Another problem I discovered is that the solder doesn't stick well to the frame. I tried using the post the light was attached to as the left-rail pickup, but between installation and operation, I lost continuity.

I went out and picked up a new decoder that will fit, so tonight I'll be removing the DH165A0 and installing a DH163D. I also picked up a 5mm white LED and some 330-Ohm resisters. I'll wire two in series with the LED, and hopefully have a decent loco.

I'm going to install the other decoder in my Proto 1000 subway car. Should be fairly easy, as the car already has a light board installed (attached).

 

[riogrande]

I can't help you on lights sorry.

 

[Hank4014]

I successfully installed the controllers in both the F7 and the subway car. I managed to maintain the lighted interior of the subway car, but couldn't get any of the headlights to work. I tried to light the F7 with an LED, but couldn't get it to work. I'll have to find someone who knows what they're doing to show me.

 

[kbkchooch]

I successfully installed the controllers in both the F7 and the subway car. I managed to maintain the lighted interior of the subway car, but couldn't get any of the headlights to work. I tried to light the F7 with an LED, but couldn't get it to work. I'll have to find someone who knows what they're doing to show me.

Here's a little info for ya!

http://tonystrains.com/technews/install-leds-decoders.htm

One other gem,,,,remember, the blue (Common) lead on a decoder is hot (+) all the time. The individual function leads are only grounds (-) for each circuit so an LED, being a directional component, must always be positioned so that the anode side goes to the blue (+) side. Took me quite some time to get this thru my thick skull.