Code 83 Flex Track - Joiners?

[Sharecropper]

I have a large amount of code 83 flex track that I bought on Ebay about 8 years ago. I recently began building the table for my new L-shaped layout and plan to use this flex track. To my surprise I noticed the ties run to within an eighth of an inch of the rail on both ends of the track section with no rail joiners on either side. My question is, what type of rail joiners are needed for this type of flex track? I have about 50 pieces of this stuff.

 

[hamltnblue]

You use standard rail joiners. Just cut off the last tie to reveal an extra bit of the rail.

 

[Sharecropper]

By removing a tie ill that not result in uneven spacing at the joint?

 

[hamltnblue]

The spacing will be fine. You can use the cut off tie to fill the space if needed

 

[maczimb]

Flex track joiners

Deviating slightly from the original thread.
I assume that one should solder the joiners in place to ensure no breaks in the current flow???
What do you guys use to solder? soldering material and equipment?
A propane torch would be quicker but would result in collateral damage???
Mac

 

[UP2CSX]

Propane torch=Much melted track and poor soldering. Try a 35 watt pencil iron, flux, and rosin core solder. Since you'll be soldering in an area where the ties have been removed, you don't need to worry about melting ties as much. If you are soldering feeders to a normal track, two small vice grips clamped to either side of the solder joint act as good heat sink to prevent melting more ties than you absolutely have to.

 

[Selector]

For the originator of the thread, you invert the track and use a sharp utility knife to nip the webbing between the second last and last ties on each end. You then invert the track sections and install them with joiners. The ties you removed will slip back into position and be held there with pressure and whatever adhesive you use for sticking the track into position. Many of us use the cheapest clear-drying acrylic latex caulk you can buy...go cheap! Spread a tiny bead along the centerline and spread it paint thin. Press the track into it, use a few track nails if you feel the need, or simply lay soda or soup tins on their sides atop the rails along the length to help keep the tracks in the thin caulk layer.

There is a prep to the removed ties: you can sand off the tiny spike head details and the tie plates or file them off or slice them off with the same blade as above. You must do this, plus remove a little more where the tie plates were or the metal joiners will cause the join to be a ridge right there, and your rolling stock and engines will jump over that join. The joiners do have a thickness, and when you install them and then attempt to slide in non-modified ties that you removed earlier, you'll soon see what I mean. This is a practise thing....you do it once, twice, and soon it is a habit and you can do it quickly and effectively.

I hope that helps.

-Crandell

 

[Sharecropper]

Thanks for the information gentlemen. I've never used flex track before; things have really changed since I was a kid. I do appreciate the input. Removing the end ties, soldiering the connections and replacing and re-adjusting the ties will be fair amount of work but my son and I can handle it. Who knows, we both may be qualified to work for Union Pacific before we finish this project.

 

[jams002]

what is that code 83??like an secret file code???






___________________
Great thing to know about busby seo test.

 

[DanRaitz]

what is that code 83??like an secret file code???

Jams,

Code 83 refers to the height of the rail (not including the ties) in thousands of an inch. i.e .083"
The track that comes with your standard toy train set is Code 100 (or .100") and there are many available rails sizes, from Code 40 up to Code 225.
If you do a searh for topics concerning track Codes, you'll find quite a few threads on this subject.


Dan

 

[Selector]

Oh, way to go there, Danno! Can't keep a secret, eh?


-Crandell

 

[Trucula]

two small vice grips clamped to either side of the solder joint act as good heat sink to prevent melting more ties than you absolutely have to.

A heat shield!.....Very cool tip there!...Thanks!

Also when dealing with flex track, it's good to solder the sections straight first before curving the radius. flex has the tendency to want to straighten back out and can make for a bad alignment on a turn. File the spikes/tie plates on ties you removed so when you replace them they don't raise the rail by it sitting on the spikes. They will slide in from the sides allot easier. Once you curve the radius you find the end rails won't be even. You'll need to cut one rail or the other to make an even joint. Unless you want to be actual and not have any rails join evenly as real rails do.