building the "central midlands"


rdeal

Member
In the summer of 1977 my brother and a friend began to build the “Central Midlands” using John Armstrong’s layout from an Atlas publication. Layout built a few modifications the major one being building in such a way it could be moved from Mom’s home to his home later. Layout was finished to point of – it was wired and trains “ran the rails” with ease. Interest waned – late 80’s layout move to his new home – and a few months ago (35 years later) began to remove dust and get the F7s running again – the agenda includes getting the track back in excellent running condition – and of course DCC and all that entails – and landscaping.

Now the question for those familiar with the layout – do you have any suggestions before we began to ballast and make things even more permanent – and – the big question is, “is there room on this layout for a “roundhouse” such as the one sold by Walthers.

Thank you so much for you time.



rdeal
 
the “Central Midlands” – the big question is, “is there room on this layout for a “roundhouse” such as the one sold by Walthers.
Well I don't know about the roundhouse but the 130' turntable would fit in place of the locomotive facility.
 
Sectional Brass Track

I'm going to guess that the age of your layout probable means it was built using sectional brass track. I would strongly suggest you replace that with nickle silver flex track.
beiland
railandsail
 
You might want to look thru this extensive subject thread on the Central Midland:
Looks like they did a mirror image. Hmmm, I had always liked that layout. Seeing pictures of it, it looks so cluttered in real life I don't know that I like it anymore.
 
thanks for the response -
iron horseman - one thing we must do is - "do not create clutter" - and i think this can be done - More Is Not Better is the motto of the day
beiland - all track is nickel silver flex track

thanks and hoping to get more responses - rdeal
 
If you have room to extend the 'engine house area' of the plan, probably some sort of roundhouse would fit, either the Atlas or Walther's one, even if its only a 90' turntable.

If it works and ran, or runs reliabily, its always better to 'build upon what you all ready have,' in my book, as it allows you to run trains much sooner than starting over from scratch.

If I had the time and/or space, I'd seriously consider building several of the Atlas plans, and making them into a single layout, substituting 22" or 24" curves for the 18" curves, or greater, in HO.

Welcome to the forums, and keep us posted. People love to look at photos!!!!!!
 
Looks like they did a mirror image. Hmmm, I had always liked that layout. Seeing pictures of it, it looks so cluttered in real life I don't know that I like it anymore.
No doubt, I tried to put a LOT into a small space....just couldn't build a bigger layout at the time, but I wanted a lot of 'things' ...extra compact ;)
 
I'm going to guess that the age of your layout probable means it was built using sectional brass track. I would strongly suggest you replace that with nickle silver flex track.
beiland
railandsail

There is no question that nickel silver is better than brass in terms of maintenance...keeping it clean and free of oxide. For moderate radii, flex track is also great. But I wouldn't tear up your whole layout just to swap nickel silver for brass. While I don't use much on my main lines, I have some old brass rail on fiber ties that I got when I built my first layout when I was fifteen years old...more than a half-century ago! Some of this is used on sidings and branch lines. The individual pieces of the fiber ties also work great to fill in under joints requiring insulated joiners, which are thicker than metal ones, and the fiber ties fit where the plastic ones won't without filing down.

Also, for radii as tight as 22" or tighter, I prefer sectional track, except where the curves are gentle and mostly straight. Of course, these pieces of sectional track used on my current layout are nickel silver on plastic ties. Your mileage may differ, of course.

If you can't fit 22 or 24" curves, you might get Shinohara 20"R, available from Walthers. NOT cheap, but works where 18"R is too tight, and 22" isn't feasible.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Here is mine ( It has modified now almost 21 feet long ) . I used a Walthers 90' Table and 3 stall roundhouse . Can handle pretty good size Engines/locos.

ATTACH]
 



Back
Top