"Best" modern HO DCC diesels: Preferably EMD, in a Southern Pacific roadname.


I'm looking to build an all-new DCC HO system from the ground-up, eventually converting to 100% dead-rail. I've already chosen my rolling stock (initially, a bunch of RTR 31K tank cars). Now, I'm trying to decide on my locomotive power. These are the three DCC-with-sound locos I'm considering (in no particular order):

A. Walthers Proto EMD SD9
B. Fox Valley Models' Southern Pacific EMD GP60
C. Broadway Limited Imports' EMD SD7

My criteria, in order of importance, are as follows:

1. Power/runability/quiet operation.
2. Sound quality.
3. Detail.

Ease of adaptability to dead-rail conversion is also a factor (I'll use a second loco dummy for battery storage), though I assume most modern locos are adaptable. I'm willing to spend between $200-$300 on a single loco. My main problem is that I can't seem to find dummy locos for these models by their respective manufacturers. Any suggestions are most welcome!
 
Well, I think I'm I'm leaning toward the Fox Valley Models' HO 20403-S GP60, Southern Pacific (early scheme). First, they're in-stock. Second, they're adorned with the non-speedlettering logotype, the "early scheme" Southern Pacific serifed typeface, which is what I see running where I live. However, if either the Walthers Proto SD9 or Broadway SD7 are better constructed internally in any way, I would consider switching from a GP-series loco; though, neither of those models are currently in-stock.
 
I still can't find any dummy locomotives by their respective manufacturers. How are people running multiple-engine consists? I have a ton of old Athearn GP35 shells in a variety of road names (I'm not planning on running any of my old Athearn engines; I'm planning to buy all-new locos and rolling stock). Are these options not offered anymore by other HO manufacturers?

Okay, I just found a Model Railroader forum thread on the subject: Apparently dummy engines aren't really a thing anymore since the shell itself appears to be a significant cost component. Again, I don't plan on running any of my old, low-end Athearn GP35s or any of my old rolling stock. So, what are my options? Do I buy one "hero" DCC loco, and the rest, plain 'ole DC locos (from the same manufacturer)? I plan to run at least three to four locos pulling a single consist.
 
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Now, I'm looking at the Walthers Proto SD9s again. There appears to be only two road numbers available in DCC, and two additional road numbers in DC. All four are in the serif-typed "early version" Southern Pacific logotype (which is what I'm looking for). I suppose I could run two Walthers Proto SD9s and be happy with that since they're longer than GP-series locos. If running two powered engines (one of which would be DCC, the other, DC-only), do I just run the second DC engine with its power disconnected?
 
Nevermind. An SD9 is only four feet longer than a GP35 (I thought they were longer). Therefore, I probably wouldn't be happy unless running three to four engines. I suppose I could buy one "premium" DCC loco, and the rest, cheaper models from another manufacturer, but I'm sure the color-match would be problematic.
 
Okay, I guess it's time to move to "Plan B." Goal: Acquire multiple engines in same series with matching paint.

1. Buy a "hero" engine, an EMD-series Athearn Genesis DCC model.
2. Buy "matching" Athearn non-Genesis locos in same series to assemble a multi-engine consist.

Thankfully, Athearn does offer Southern Pacific shells with the "early" serif-typed paint treatments. Now, if this is a common approach to building multiple-engine consists without spending $200+ per loco, what do people generally do with the other "dummy" locos? Do they disconnect the DC-only locos' power?
 
If you are converting a locomotive to be a dummy, you have to take the gears out as well as disconnecting the power. If you are going to convert to dead rail and use it as a battery car, you will probably have to take the motor and the rest of the drive-train out as well, to make room. As you are finding out, no one really offers dummies any more.
Thought...Since railroads normally use a "buffer car" between the engines and tankers, generally a large covered hopper filled with sand, why not use the hopper for batteries and don't spend money on a good engine that won't be running?
Willie
 
Just so you know, almost zero locomotives these days are non-powered, or dummy models. Some B units, such as E, F, Alco passenger, and Baldwin Sharks, are about the only ones currently offered as dummies.
 
if this is a common approach to building multiple-engine consists without spending $200+ per loco, what do people generally do with the other "dummy" locos? Do they disconnect the DC-only locos' power?
Not only would one want to remove all the gears, but probably cut down the gear housings as well to make max room for batteries.

On a side note, I seldom spend $200 for a diesel locomotive. I wait and watch for sales/clearance. Eg. I just picked up a bunch of Broadway Limited Pargon 2 locos for $129 each.
 
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As you are finding out, no one really offers dummies any more . . . Since railroads normally use a "buffer car" between the engines and tankers, generally a large covered hopper filled with sand, why not use the hopper for batteries and don't spend money on a good engine that won't be running?
Willie

Gotcha! Thanks! Duh . . . I would have to de-gear the loco as well. Maybe I should ditch the whole DCC idea and just buy a pile of (less expensive) DC locos. I don't really need DCC operation, but I think a DCC loco is required for dead-rail conversion. Ah, yes, the days of cheap Athearn engines and piles of dummy shells are over. I have two blue-box Athearn GP35 locos and two dummy Athearn GP35 chassis. Too bad I never built the detail railing when I first bought them (probably around 1986 or so). I still have one of the boxes, but somehow lost all of the railing parts.

Yes, the buffer car is an excellent idea! Thanks!
 
Just so you know, almost zero locomotives these days are non-powered, or dummy models. Some B units, such as E, F, Alco passenger, and Baldwin Sharks, are about the only ones currently offered as dummies.

Right. Thanks, Terry! Yup . . . just realizing that's the case these days. An A-B unit train is also another consideration, but is out-of-period for my planned layout. Still may go that way as soon as I research some of the available A-B models. Thanks for your reply!
 
How long do you think a battery supply will run your trains?

From what little research I've done so far on dead-rail, it seems to be a reasonable amount of time. If using a completely empty loco, or more likely, a huge buffer car, I could fit a fairly large-capacity LiPo battery in there. LiPos of course have the highest energy-to-weight ratio of all modern battery chemistries, so runtime could last for several hours.
 
On a side note, I seldom spend $200 for a diesel locomotive. I wait and watch for sales/clearance. Eg. I just picked up a bunch of Broadway Limited Pargon 2 locos for $129 each.

Thanks for the tip! I have a fairly large inventory of pro photo gear, and about 80% of it is used, demo, open-box, or refurbished. Especially with photo gear, the savings can be enormous. However, I do have a fairly specific roadname requirement (and I'm not skilled enough to detail from scratch), and I'm finding the selection among brand new stock even a bit challenging. Do any of the manufacturers sell "replacement" shells?
 
'm finding the selection among brand new stock even a bit challenging. Do any of the manufacturers sell "replacement" shells?
Yes they do. Just go to that vendors site and look for the parts catalog.

For the situation you mentioned where they make certain road numbers in DC and other road numbers in DCC, I've purchased duplicates of a DCC number and the DC unit. Then I swap the DC unit shell to the DCC chassis, and vice versa then sell the DC units. You could do the same in reverse.
 
Yes they do. Just go to that vendors site and look for the parts catalog.

Thanks! Yes, I have only four road numbers available in the Southern Pacific roadname (two DCC, two DC), so I could do the same to enable four different numbers. I presume they make this economically undesirable, but wouldn't it be possible buy a replacement shell and a bare chassis from the manufacturer's parts inventory to build your own dummy engine that way?
 
Broadway Limited Imports - hands down in my opinion. I have the Southern Pacific GP7 from them and it's gorgeous!
 
As a side question, how many cars do you intend to have behind your single powered loco and are you planning on having grades on your layout?
 
As a side question, how many cars do you intend to have behind your single powered loco and are you planning on having grades on your layout?

Well, I'm still very early in the process, as I've been gradually pondering my options as I re-enter the hobby. First, let me thank all the contributors to this thread for all the "newbie" help! It was very helpful to get me up to speed on current model railroading basics. Second . . . I'm about to kill this thread!

I've been reviewing my space options, and they're rather limited. I've also been evaluating what I want to get out of modeling. Again, I have a small collection of HO-scale gear that I bought decades ago, but I don't plan on running any of it, so the upside of that is that I'm basically starting from scratch and have all my options are open. I decided I want a miniature "diorama" effect, and realized that I could more easily achieve this in N-scale.

So, I just clicked "buy now" on a $200 Amazon order for N-scale Tomix and Kato scenery buildings, so now, I'm committed. What really got me was the discovery of the Kato Unitram line of N-scale "city-building" roadway products. They're really neat, and exactly right for my scenic tastes: Modern, urban, and very city-ish. Pardon the cross-post, but I'll just quote an excerpt of what I wrote in the layouts section:

Well, I think I've now decided to go N-scale . . .

. . . I'm thinking of first building a Kato Unitram system using Kato Portram streetcars (which I think look really cool), then add a perimeter loop using Kato double-track pieces around the Unitram "city" using modern EMD/GE diesels, pulling N-scale freight-bearing rolling stock . . . Instead, the freight diesels will be pulling double-stack Maersk well-cars (another type of freight very common in urban areas). I do also want to model an Amtrak Superliner somehow around that layout.

To answer your question, here's what I'm thinking at the moment:

1. I was initially attempting to model a local refinery, so I was going to buy as many ScaleTrains' 31K GATX crude-oil tank cars as I could afford: Possibly 12-24 cars in total. But now, all that has changed. Now, I'm planning to build a long consist of container cars. To fill-out the consist, I'm also buying a pile of Bachmann Railbox cars (I chose Bachmann because they're the only ones that appear to make them for N-scale). So, probably to start, 20-25 cars per engine set-up (and as time goes on, hopefully many more). Each consist will have multiple engines, in as many road numbers as are available (typically, three to four).

2. Yes, I'm planning some grades using the Kato pre-built pylon systems.
 
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