Best insulated joiners for HO
- Thread starter TomR
- Start date
kenw
5th Generation Texian
I use neither and instead simply cut a gap with a Dremel (or whatever) and insert a small spacer of (for example) 0.010 styrene painted appropriately to keep the gap intact. If you can avoid gapping on a tight curve, the ends of the rails will be held just fine by the adjacent ties when the bending stress is low (ie; straight sections or gentle curves).
Selector
Well-Known Member
I know you aren't asking for opinions about their utility, but I have to agree that I don't, 'n won't, use those things. I don't like how well they work on curves, and I don't like their looks. Instead, I use track nails to hold the rails, ballast, and when the ballast dries, I lift the nails and cut the rails with a cut-off disk. Unless you have huge swings in humidity in your train room, and have a wooden frame, you are not likely to ever have a closed gap with the size of gap a cut-off disk leaves.
By the way, bright orange or green insulated joints aren't as unrealistic as you might expect. Prototype insulated joints are also coated with insulation (usually an expoxy resin, but it looks a lot like plastic). They're brightly colored so they can be easily located by the signal crew and train crews.
In a couple places I just leveled the joint and soldered the common rail, then I added a little downspout glue and let it dry. Then it trims off with a razor blade.
But most places I used little black or pink plastic, the problem is they break easy. I have some clear nylon, but the things fit really tight. They are difficult to install for some reason. All of this came with the stuff I bought.
I ran out of insulated joiners so I want to get something as good as possible. The track I laid is on rubber, only the old track is glued to a stable base. That may rule out my cutting rails, unless I glue the ends together.
TomC:
I agree with Selector about plastic insulated rail joiners.
Here's what I've been doing for the past 17 years and why.
I ALWAYS use a Dremel tool with cut-off disk to make electrical gaps (on straight and curved rails, and even on the running rails in the middle of track switches.) In my experience, one way or another the insulated rail joiners, especially on curves, WILL cause the two rail ends to mis-align thereby causing derailments. And they don't have to mis-align very much.
I use all Atlas Code 100 flex rail in 3' sections. When laying track, after soldering the rail joints and dressing them up (making sure they are smooth), and have secured the track to the roadbed, I mark the first electric gap on one rail with a pencil mark, then go across to the other rail, go at least two tie spaces left or right of the first mark, and mark this rail. If you use flex track MAKE SURE THAT BOTH PENCIL MARKS HAVE PLASTIC BETWEEN THE TIES UNDER THE RAIL - the flex track tie strips have crosstie connection gaps every other tie on one side - for flexibility.
The next step is get out the Super Glue and put a small drop on each spike/rail connection on both sides of each rail out to 4 ties on each side of the mark. Let it dry/cure. This makes the rail/tie combination stiff.
Use the Dremel tool to cut the gap on the pencil marks but do NOT cut through the plastic tie strips under the rails. (Note: With my Dremel tool and cut off discs I have to cut the gap at an angle; no big deal.) Use a small file or the Dremel tool cutoff disk (at slow speed) to dress/smooth the rail ends at each gap.
As info I've never had to fill any gap to keep it from closing.
And by the way, I've done this method on pre-made sections of curved track. It's easier than flextrack - the plastic tie sections are all rigid.
I know it's a lot more work than using plastic insulated rail joiners, but when using the method described above the gaps are basically maintenance-free (they do not cause derailments) and practically invisible.
I guess I've got over 40 rail gaps made by this method, and in 17 years I've had one failure.
Hope this is helpful.
DougC
I agree with Selector about plastic insulated rail joiners.
Here's what I've been doing for the past 17 years and why.
I ALWAYS use a Dremel tool with cut-off disk to make electrical gaps (on straight and curved rails, and even on the running rails in the middle of track switches.) In my experience, one way or another the insulated rail joiners, especially on curves, WILL cause the two rail ends to mis-align thereby causing derailments. And they don't have to mis-align very much.
I use all Atlas Code 100 flex rail in 3' sections. When laying track, after soldering the rail joints and dressing them up (making sure they are smooth), and have secured the track to the roadbed, I mark the first electric gap on one rail with a pencil mark, then go across to the other rail, go at least two tie spaces left or right of the first mark, and mark this rail. If you use flex track MAKE SURE THAT BOTH PENCIL MARKS HAVE PLASTIC BETWEEN THE TIES UNDER THE RAIL - the flex track tie strips have crosstie connection gaps every other tie on one side - for flexibility.
The next step is get out the Super Glue and put a small drop on each spike/rail connection on both sides of each rail out to 4 ties on each side of the mark. Let it dry/cure. This makes the rail/tie combination stiff.
Use the Dremel tool to cut the gap on the pencil marks but do NOT cut through the plastic tie strips under the rails. (Note: With my Dremel tool and cut off discs I have to cut the gap at an angle; no big deal.) Use a small file or the Dremel tool cutoff disk (at slow speed) to dress/smooth the rail ends at each gap.
As info I've never had to fill any gap to keep it from closing.
And by the way, I've done this method on pre-made sections of curved track. It's easier than flextrack - the plastic tie sections are all rigid.
I know it's a lot more work than using plastic insulated rail joiners, but when using the method described above the gaps are basically maintenance-free (they do not cause derailments) and practically invisible.
I guess I've got over 40 rail gaps made by this method, and in 17 years I've had one failure.
Hope this is helpful.
DougC
Excellent information from you and others, including selector.
I did some experiments last night with old track (I have a pile of pieces I pulled from the layout I bought) and I think I have a system that will work well for me.
I use a very thin cutoff wheel on my dremel, and super glue the rail on both sides of the cut point for extra strength. Then I cut near the middle of this straight section of track. Then I flooded the gap Gorilla glue, and when it finished drying and expanding I filed it to shape of the rail.
The only problem is I can't see the gap unless I know where to look.
I'm sure this will also work anywhere else on the layout, so as I have to add or change gaps I'll use this method. It took me a lot less overall work time then adding plastic joiners and aligning and leveling the track.
This is a great method, and things like this should be on a website somewhere for beginners like me to find.
Thanks, Tom
