Ballast spreaders

[bn-1000]

Does anyone use a ballast spreader to evenly distribute those millions of tiny stones? I see there are a couple of types on the market such as this one on eBay or this one from Model train Stuff . Both types seem to be a container with specifically spaced holes at the bottom for even distribution of the ballast.

Or do you just use your fingers?

Cheers,

 

[Rico]

I tried one similar to the second one, wasn't real happy with it.
I made one like the first one (on ebay), didn't work too bad but not the best.
I prefer a spoon to distribute it and a make up brush to regulate it.

 

[LoudMusic]

I tried one similar to the second one, wasn't real happy with it.
I made one like the first one (on ebay), didn't work too bad but not the best.
I prefer a spoon to distribute it and a make up brush to regulate it.

It seems like the first (square) one would be super easy to make and good for a first pass at distributing the ballast. Then touching it up with a brush wouldn't be difficult. Using a spoon seems massively time consuming, especially on large layouts. Clearly these specific ballast spreading tools won't work through turnouts and crossovers, but all the straight stretches of even a large layout could be covered in a matter of minutes instead of hours.

Would it be of any assistance to build this into a car with a truck on each side so that the spreader is supported by wheels instead of dragging directly on the ties (or spikes likely)? Seems with some precision building it could be a really smooth spreader.

 

[bn-1000]

It seems like the first (square) one would be super easy to make and good for a first pass at distributing the ballast. Then touching it up with a brush wouldn't be difficult. Using a spoon seems massively time consuming, especially on large layouts. Clearly these specific ballast spreading tools won't work through turnouts and crossovers, but all the straight stretches of even a large layout could be covered in a matter of minutes instead of hours.

Would it be of any assistance to build this into a car with a truck on each side so that the spreader is supported by wheels instead of dragging directly on the ties (or spikes likely)? Seems with some precision building it could be a really smooth spreader.

That's not a bad idea re: building it into a car!

Yes I was more inclined to go with the first one (square box). I couldn't really see how the second one functioned.

 

[35tac]

I have tried several but none did well or met my expectations. I just use a small plastic drining cup and several differant brushes.
Thanks
Wayne

 

[bgfireman]

I pour mine right out of the shaker on the track and use a modified tooth brush to brush the ballast into postion. (The tooth brush handle was cut off and glued back on the top towards the side. Make it look like a captal T from the top. Works pretty well.
Alan

 

[amdaley]

Hello Everyone.
This is the method I use for ballasting following the instructions laid down by Richard Johnson of DCC Concepts of Australia.Its very easy to do & gives a great finish if you follow the instructions. I have included Richard's full instructions below.

Re standard ballast, its not hard to do.

to recap what I've posted many times before.

------------------Step 1

Pre-ballasting - vacuum the area and make sure its clean. Put a wee bit if vaseline on a cotton bud (a wee bit) and run it between point blades and stock rail, only where they touch.

* First paint the shoulders of the roadbed with neat glue, spread ballast over it, vacuum off excess when fry and save it.

* Do the same with the area around the points tie bar - apply glue with fine brush, add a pinch of ballast and tap down.... (After main ballasting, do it again to increase ballast depth as needed there)

This preballasted shoulder will let YOU control the edges as you want them to be, and stop ballast falling everywhere alongside the track.

_--------------- Step 2

Adding Ballast

*Then spread ballast by spooning on with a soup spoon (ie not too much at a time) and spread with a finger not a brush - brushes make it flick everywhere. you want it to the sleeper top, but not over sleepers.

* When the area between sleepers is close to perfect for you, gently tap the rails with the soup spoon, this will vibrate them and move any bits that are touching the rail (these are the bits that make running problems and look untidy.

don't compromise here - be tidy as it will save lots of cleanup later! when you have had enough ballast spreading for one day, then its time to stick it.

-------------------Step 3

Fixing it

Prep
Mix about 1/5 PVA with 2/5 water and 2/5 meths and shake thoroughly. Never stronger than this much PVA, less is fine too. If its a good quality glue 1/8 glue is enough.
use a basting syringe or a glue bottle with a small nozzle to put the glue mix in - before U put in, give it a good stir
fill a spray bottle with neat meths. Make sure it has a good fine mist spray.

* Mist the whole of the area you will ballast with a good wetting of meths.

* Immediately start dripping the ballast. It will soak in super fast and really flow everywhere. Its actually quite a quick process. Be careful around points of course...

* If some sits on the top, just re-mist with the meths.

* When finished, re-mist all over with meths and leave it for a few hours.

--------------------------Step 4

Clean up.

rub along sleepers with a finger, feeling for bits and rub them off with the finger - pick any bits by rails off with fingernail. Check points and work a few times to make sure no stickyness
check between stock and closure rails, check rails and stock rails/common crossing/frog

vacuum

run trains....

--------------------------------

 

[bn-1000]

Decided not to use a ballast spreader and used a spoon to distribute the granules.

Here is my first attempt after gluing. I used Peco Code 83 on strips of cork from a cork wall tile. This is a diorama I am making to take photographs of my locos and rolling stock, at the same time learning about applying scenery techniques.

 

[Y3a]

I use an old Mortons' salt canister. You know, the cardboard job with the light metal pour spout. I just cut a 1" diameter hole opposite of the spout as a filler from the big bottle. I use soft, 3/4 inch watercolor brush to go down the center of the track to spread the ballast, and a 1/2" wide "Epoxy brush" with the bristles cut down to about 2/3" long to do outside the ties. I model the N&W in the 1930's where practice was to leave the ends of the ties exposed for drainage. This means I also have to pre-paint the ties and rails before ballasting. Finally, I can airbrush some general filth and soot on top of the ballast in some areas, and use actual cinders in the yard, in the engine coaling areas etc.

 

[Ronzzr11]

Decided not to use a ballast spreader and used a spoon to distribute the granules.

Here is my first attempt after gluing. I used Peco Code 83 on strips of cork from a cork wall tile. This is a diorama I am making to take photographs of my locos and rolling stock, at the same time learning about applying scenery techniques.

That looks good to me, how long did it take to ballast that section ?
Ron

 

[bn-1000]

Hi Ron,

I didn't really take much notice of the time frame, however I did this over three evenings, probably spending may 30-45 minutes at a guess, so maybe 2 hours?

I scattered down the centre first in small sections 3-4 inches long, coarsely leveling to the height of the ties with my finger. Then with a fine brush I brushed off any rogue granules from the ties and inside the rails. Then applied the 50/50 mix with a eye dropper. After that I did the same to the outside of the rails, again using my fingers and a fine brush to shape the edge.

It was really a part-experiment to learn the basics of ballast laying, and part-functional as I am using this short length as a static display and to take photos of my rolling stock.

I've started laying scatter and tufts of grass so I'll post photos later this week.

Regards,

 

[zoegraf]

Decided not to use a ballast spreader and used a spoon to distribute the granules.

Here is my first attempt after gluing. I used Peco Code 83 on strips of cork from a cork wall tile. This is a diorama I am making to take photographs of my locos and rolling stock, at the same time learning about applying scenery techniques.

May I ask what type of granules are they? Did you make them or buy them?

 

[bn-1000]

May I ask what type of granules are they? Did you make them or buy them?

I bought these from eBay seller 'davidmdennison' in the UK but I checked this week and the seller is no longer selling them. They are a mixture of what I'd call "round" granules and "flakes". They are a bit coarse but once glued down they are quite acceptable.

 

[zoegraf]

I bought these from eBay seller 'davidmdennison' in the UK but I checked this week and the seller is no longer selling them. They are a mixture of what I'd call "round" granules and "flakes". They are a bit coarse but once glued down they are quite acceptable.

They look good and look like slate. I wonder if slate or shale was ever used as ballast.

I'm going to try to achieve this look on my next branch line layout.

 

[bn-1000]

They look good and look like slate. I wonder if slate or shale was ever used as ballast.

I'm going to try to achieve this look on my next branch line layout.

To be honest, I don't know, but I guess that often ballast is in the form of whatever local materials are around at the time, especially rural and remote areas. I know of some areas near me where the ballast is partially crushed quartz - leftovers from the gold mining regions.

That's a nice branchline there zoegraf. I like that scene!

Here's a test shot of what I want to achieve with this diorama: From the distance the size and shape of the ballast are less noticeable. Actually I cheated, the backdrop is my N Scale layout 'Bowen'.

 

[Beachbum]

Just read where somebody uses a plastic condiment squeeze bottle to ballast. He cuts off the tip a little at a time until the hole is the size where the ballast flows out at the rate he likes. Plus the squeeze bottles are at most a buck a piece? He uses another one to apply glue.

Anyway, he claims he has much better control over where the ballast goes, etc with his squeeze bottle.

 

[Ronzzr11]

That sounds like something I might try out. I think putting a flexible tube on the spout would make it even easier to put the ballast right where it needs to go.
Ron

 

[TwrOpr 87]

I tried one similar to the second one, wasn't real happy with it.
I made one like the first one (on ebay), didn't work too bad but not the best.
I prefer a spoon to distribute it and a make up brush to regulate it.

I agree with all of this 100%. I use a cup to pour the ballast then a brush to smooth it out


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