Backing/Shoving Long Trains: Part 3 - FLOATING TRUCKS


DougC

Member
Referencing my previous two posts: Backing/Shoving Long Trains (9-23-11), and Backing/Shoving Long Trains – Part 2 (12-26-11), I’m adding this thread Backing/Shoving Long Trains – Part 3 - FLOATING TRUCKS. I think you will find it at least interesting, and it will probably be my last article on this subject.

After considerable thought and experience on this subject, and along with proper railcar weight, proper railcar/truck interface, and decent (not perfect) track, I believe that Floating Trucks are the key to successful, almost derailment-free operations, including backing of long trains regardless of (up to a point) track curves’ radiuses. I know this is a bold statement. Here are my thoughts.

First, what is a “floating truck?” Please bear with me here. This term popped into my mind a few weeks ago as I was watching one of my HO long (70 car) trains slowly run forward through my yard ladder track. I don’t do much switching so I use the ladder as part of one of two possible routes on this track loop. This ladder, going from right to left, has six back-to-back 20+ year-old Model Power #4 NS track turnouts on it (the first two turnouts are set on the curved routes, the remaining four on the straight routes), and immediately at the end of this string of turnouts there is an Atlas 30 degree crossing diamond. And from right to left the track is going away from me (this is visually pleasing to me.)

While watching the train go through this section that day my eye was drawn to the lead truck of one of the cars, and the truck’s behavior brought the term “floating truck” to mind. Here’s why. Most of the 6 turnouts have been in-place for 18 years and some of the plastic frog areas are wearing down a little. Also, the connection between the point rail and closure rail on many of these turnouts is not the smoothest – even though I’ve addressed a lot of them with a small file. Also, Model Power turnouts, as far as I know, have never been known as “high quality” turnouts. I even noticed for the first time the other day that from my side view some of the turnouts are slightly humped in the middle! And the Atlas diamond causes some wobbles/bumps in more than half of the cars crossing it. Do cars derail through here? Almost never, but some of the cars do bump and wobble.

Back to “that truck” and “floating trucks”. As I watched it moving along it appeared to be “floating” - it was smoothly rising and falling irregularly side to side, and irregularly “sliding” back and forth according the dictates of the track conditions (for example, left front up, left rear to the right, right rear down, and all of this continually changing.) It did this generally all the way through, and the car itself was staying fairly stable (I don’t remember the car type, but it was high-sided like a boxcar or hopper.) Now do all my car bodies stay stable when their trucks are doing their “floating”? No.

This particular truck was just like 99% of my railcar trucks – one-piece plastic (NO truck springs), and I think it had plastic wheels (with metal axles) – 85% of my 300+ railcars have plastic wheels, the rest are metal. The one-piece plastic truck is important and I’ll get back to it in a minute - see #3 below.

How can and why should my (and your?) model railroad trucks “float” through irregular track just like the real railcars’ trucks? My answer is three-fold:

1. None of my trucks are ever snugly attached to the railcars’ underbody. They are all “loose” precisely so they can swivel in any combination of vertical or horizontal directions – just like the prototype. By “snugly attached” I mean it like I understand a certain model railroad association recommends, i.e. keep one truck snugged up to the car’s bolster so the railcar rides smoother and doesn’t wobble (and hence derail?) so much.

2. Keep all the railcars’ weights close to the same (on the low end of the scale – roughly 3 ounces or less per railcar) no matter what the car length is. The heavier the railcar the more the railcar pressures its trucks to restrain their freedom of horizontal and vertical movements, and then they are more prone to derail. This in turn forces the construction of “perfect” track work. [Am I against perfect track? NO. It’s b e a u t i f u l . On the other hand do I personally want to spend my time and money to get “perfect” track? No.]

3. You know, it’s my understanding that most of us use trucks that are not actually sprung (I personally don’t like them even though they look good). I think most of us use the rigid plastic trucks. I’m betting that 95%+ of these trucks, at least with experienced modelers, have truck side-frame concave journal holes that are at 60 degree angles, and the axles are metal (steel) with 60 degree points on the ends. Note: I believe the horizontal axle/journal interface angle is half of the 60 degree total, i.e. 30 degrees.

So I was thinking about this. Let’s visualize the following: Looking at a truck from the rear, moving away from you on “rough” track under its railcar, we see it bobing, weaving, sliding, rising, and falling – often all at the same time. What are the axles in the truck side-frame journals doing? If the truck is made properly there is some smooth side-play for the axles in the journal holes [if not make more “smooth room” with that little hand tool reamer], BUT these axles and holes are angled (UNLIKE the prototype) – THIS IS IMPORTANT. Let’s say the axle was in equilibrium in regards to its two side-frame journals, but then track conditions force the axle to move to the right inside the truck frame (before the truck itself moves to the side). What happens? The right wheel goes down and the left wheel goes up because of the truck/axle angle interface. Here’s the point of what I’m saying – first, the axle/truck/railcar DOES NOT DERAIL when this happens, and second (this was my EUREKA! moment :) ), THIS SIDEWAYS AND HENCE VERTICLE AXLE MOVMENT INSIDE ITS TRUCK JOURNALS MAKES THE TRUCK FUNCTION TO SOME EXTENT LIKE A SPRUNG TRUCK ON THE PROTOTYPE. Our model truck side frames don’t flex or yield, but the axles functionally do! I BELIEVE THIS IS ONE OF THE KEYS IN KEEPING MODEL RAILROAD TRUCKS FROM DERAILING.

Summary A: My practical, real-world experience has been following the above three numbered practices (in essence having floating trucks), and backing 65- to 70-car trains around right angle dog-bone loops with radiuses of 22”, 19” and 16” with no derailments, even when running backwards at 35 to 50mph on the MRC Tech 2 Railmaster 2400 power packs. I’ve also run the 69-car train (in the forward direction and with about 18 52’ cars in it) many times through a hidden 180 degree curve (it’s a shortcut to free up part of the normal route) with just one derailment; the curve’s radius is 12”. I’m saying all of this because the proof of the pudding is in the eating of it.

Summary B: In my experience keeping one or more trucks snug against its railcar and/or having railcars with too much weight and/or not having axle side-play in the truck journals greatly inhibits the trucks’ abilities to stay on the track.

Am I saying everybody should build 12” radius curves and operate on them? No. Am I saying that I’m some sort of a professor of ???? No, just a guy with many decades of model railroad experience that likes to experiment with his model railroad in this fashion, with the goal of being able to operate trains that almost never derail* when running forward or - for flexibility and amusement - backwards.

* I, like you, operate model trains for enjoyment and particularly visual pleasure, and even one derailment every ten times around a loop with a 15-car train is irritating/frustrating. But that’s not all. If you’re like me then you keep in mind the thought, “Will it derail over there again?” When I do this I can’t mentally rest in the enjoyment anymore, even if I have removed the guilty railcar from the train. But, believe it or not, now when I operate all 3 long trains simultaneously (usually for about an hour every day or two), and even with one, two or all three running backwards, at least once out of every three sessions I am so comfortable that I fall asleep in my “dispatcher’s chair” – a high-back, used office chair - for a 15 minute nap. When I wake up they are all still quietly trundling around their loops. (I know it sounds boring. But, for me it’s obviously very relaxing and restful.)

Lastly, since I’ve “gone to all this trouble” in becoming “derailment free” (but not totally) I wanted to share my experiences and thoughts with you in hopes that they are helpful or at least thought-provoking.

Any comments, experiences, thoughts or “you’re crazy”s are welcome.

Thank you for taking your time to read this.

DougC
 
Doug;

The term that you use, "floating" trucks, actually has a name. Its "equalizing". The plastic trucks are flexible enough so that the truck can follow the contour of the rail.

Sprung trucks, while they can be very good trucks, and do have springs in them, the springs are there mostly for show. Most manufacturers put too stiff of a spring in their product and this makes them unforgiving. The spring has to be stiffer to hold the truck together. While the KD sprung truck is one of the better sprung trucks on the market, it too is still a little too stiff.

There was once a maker of sprung trucks that actually were equalized and could follow the rail contour as you have described, but alas, they are no longer made. These were Central Valley trucks. I still look for them on E-bay, train shows and the like. Its pushing 30yrs since they were made and I treasure each pair I can find.

As for the humps and bumps thru the turnouts and they're getting worn, judicious work with a flat single cut Bastard file will lower the plastic frogs down to the level of the rails. For the worn frogs, just fill them with a 12-24hr set epoxy, and when dry, cut new flangeways with a hack saw blade, and some small files. Don't use 5 minute set epoxy. It will not be tough enough to take the pounding.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If I understand correctly, you're saying that there's a bit of sideways play that allows the axles to (slightly) move independent of the truck frame to absorb imperfections? Makes sense! I've enjoyed these threads as I think this a good topic for discussion. It's funny that the place where you're most likely to want to reverse, a yard, is also the place where you're most likely going to encounter S curves and turnouts.

Are all your cars 2-axles per truck? A while ago I accidentally put one of my turnouts out of gauge, and after trying to fix it I found that 3-axle trucks would go through the damaged section alright but anything small nearly always derailed. I can't imagine a rigid axle car going through even a healthy turnout in reverse, but I guess that's probably only an issue for people modelling older European railways that favoured the really short rolling stock.
 
Anyone who is able to run 70 cars backwards is worth listening to. I have been replacing those plastic trucks and their plastic wheels methodically over the last year. I actually do prefer the Kadee 500 series and watching them very closely I find that they do in fact equalize. But I wanted to add to your point, not push Kadee's.

Coupler alignment is critical to non derailment issues as well. While old horn and hook always stayed pretty much in line, the attraction to them stops there. Lining up Kadee Number 5 or 148's takes more work and frequently takes shims. If they aren't right to standards, they are going to cause trouble.

Interestingly, back when I had an attachment to the Santa Fe Southern, backing up boxcars was just as much of a problem on the prototype as in the modeling world. Cabooses were a constant source of trouble. The size of the fulcrum bars to get a caboose back on the track were impressive. The thinking there was that the caboose was light and had a very short wheelbase.Way back, I recall a presidential candidate being brought in to Santa Fe to make a speech at the Old Santa Fe station house. Amtrak supplied the motive power which was the rules of the road. The railroad had class C trackage meaning no more than 15 MPH . While the engine was sitting in the yard, the tracks splayed out and the wheels went on the ground. Amtrack policy was that the engine went back to Kansas to have the wheels reworked, no exceptions. It made for an interesting awkward afternoon with headllines in the paper saying "Wheels come off for Presidential hopeful". The Albuquerque one said "Presidential hopeful derailed".
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Cjcrescent
TrinityJayOne
Pete V

Thank you very much for your comments. You not only expand my knowledge but also do so for all of us. Specifically for me:

Cj - Thanks for the term "equalizing" vs. floating. And thanks for the fix on worn turnout frogs - 12-24 hour set epoxy. I will probably start doing this soon; I imagine I will wait until the bumping/bobing of the railcars passes my internal, subjective, visual "bump limit."

TrinityJayOne - Thanks for letting me know you've enjoyed these threads. It's encouraging and as the writer of these threads I often wonder if everybody is "throwing tomatoes meant for me" at their monitor. :) And yes, with a couple of exceptions all the railcars are two-axle standard plasic trucks (but they are a mix of over ten manufacturers, including some "dogs").

PeteV - Per your comment, "Coupler alignment is critical to non derailment issues as well," and, "If they aren't to right standards, they are going to cause trouble." I agree 100+%. In my experience horn hook couplers are basically worthless. Like you and many others I've spent extra time shimming, grinding, and once in a while using over-shank or under-shank couplers, etc. to get the coupler boxes centered and the couplers at the right height. My couplers are mostly KD#5, 148s, and some similar ProtoMaxs.

As info, I've found that the shanks on plastic couplers, when mounted on locos and pulling long trains, literally bend vertically (up or down) because of the strain if they aren't height-matched PERFECTLY with the first coupler in the train. So I now by default get rid of all plastic couplers.

Your story about the presidential candidate's train loco derailing while just sitting still in the yard is funny! - "Presidential hopeful derailed." Quite an embarassement to everybody.

DougC
 
I find Kadee still to be the most reliable couplers. I think that the stretching or deformation problem you refer to is a genuine problem with plastic coupling. If you look at the draw bar capacity of the couplers, they get pretty exciting on a helix, my standard unit tool for measuring disasters.
 
ADDENDUM FOR ALL:

TrinityJayOne:

Just for an opportunity for repetition of the main point of this article and clarification's sake, I'd like to briefly address your question, "If I understand correctly, you're saying that there is a bit of sideways play that allows the axles to (slighty) move independent of the truck frame to absorb imperfections? Makes sense." YES, you nailed it.

Therefore, and here's its corollary, by bringing too much weight to bear on the truck (the less the better) and/or attaching the truck too snugly or even just snugly to the underside of the railcar, we GREATLY inhibit/impede/obstruct the truck's ability to do its work, which is to keep the wheels on the rails and hence the railcar on the track.

DougC
 
An afterthought on this is the points on plastic wheelsets. They are worthy of careful examination. Overall axle length is one issue but the sharpness of the points is another. At the very least, lubricating them helps. Replacing them with quality metal ones of the correct length helps even more. Barring replacement, getting the honing tool for the trucks is a reasonable tool to own.

I like the tool that is used to measure the relative friction level for trucks and wheels, basically a soft "U" shaped track. You just let the wheels go at the top of that "U" and see how many times they go back and forth before entropy, the enemy of us all stops them. Good trucks go for a long time. Bad ones don't.

I enjoy my layout so much more now that I have invested in decent trucks and wheels, but it's costly.
 



Back
Top