Bachmann Diesel DCC install


thaddeusthudpucker

thaddeusthudpucker

That Guy
Hey guys

I have a Bachmann GP40 diesel that I cannot figure out how to get the shell off of. It is a recent one, and the body and paint look pretty good, not to mention it runs pretty decently.

It is lettered Alaska RR 3015, i dont know the item number. Any hints on getting the shell off so that I can decoder it would be appreciated!
 
Ok, looking at the exploded parts diagram, the engine does not appear to be DCC ready, so you'll have to hardwire the decoder in, and isolate the motor from the frame.

Here's the diagram: http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/H635X_IS005.pdf

It doesn't look like the body is held in place with any screws. Try grabbing it and rocking it, maybe? I had a GP38-2 that was DCC equipped and I don't remember how I opened it.

If my memory is correct, the coupler pockets (or lack thereof) screw into the shell and are not part of the frame. The pilots are slotted so the couplers can be kept on.
 
Bachmanns usually have 2 screws holding the shell on. I know the F40's have 2 screws hidden by the fuel tank.
 
Yeah this thing has me totally flummoxed.

Being DCC ready is no issue to me, I can hardwire decoders no problem.

From the diagram, it looks as though it has a couple of tabs near the fuel tank that I have to spread the shell to get off of. i shall try that later.

Thanks for the diagram!

Jeff: Now that you mention Bachmann F40PH's, How much weight you think should be cut out of one of those if it was going to be made into an NPCU?
 
None. I'd add weight so that it weighs as much as a freight car if it's not heavy enough already. I'd just disconnect the motor leads, pop the worm and idler gears out, and leave the motor in for weight (unless you want to secretly keep it powered) but leave the pickups in place so that the lights still work.
 
The things are actually quite heavy. They are a split frame affair and most of the body is filled with sintered steel frame. I'd say the things weigh nearly a pound. Of course, it would need a decoder so that it can have lights when leading the train. But that is not too hard.
 
Not sure. The things are sleds though. I'll let you know when I get my mill set back up in a few weeks after I get moved. I don't plan to remove a lot on the one I will be making, but some will be. Its too damn heavy.
 
All brands either make a decoder with wire leads and/or a harness that terminates as wire leads. The harness type is better if you want to upgrade to a decoder with more functions or If you toast it and need to replace it. it's easier than desoldering 4 or more wires and soldering a new decoder in.
 
Thanks, but I don't mind having to desolder a toasted decoder. I don't like that premise anyway because if it has toasted then you will need to find that fault anyway.

I have installed many of these, most of my fleet is hardwired, and the only toasted decoder I have has is from a P2K SD60 that I just plugged into the socket on the board. Since then, I always start by removing all factory electronics and hardwiring the new decoder. I appreciate your concern, but it is unwarranted. After all, thkis is more about getting the shell off to install the decoder, not advice on the installation itself.
 
Well, decoders don't last forever. Like your computer, you'll need to get a new one after a while :D

And my response wasn't just for you, after all, these forums are public. If someone else decides to take my advice, then it's there for them too.
 
My apologies in that case. It seemed to be directed at me.

In any case, at the rate my engines get used these days they should last me indefinitely...

However, I do find it enjoyable to do that soldering work. I have even had to resolder the leads back to the decoder itself. It has all worked for me.
 
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